Newf Wit a 440

Hi All,

Could someone give me a complete breakdown of what I would need to do to turn my 440 Smogger RB block into a 450hp streetable 6-pack? I heard I could re-condition rods(upgrade to ARP bolts), and Cast crank, and Block. I guess the rest would have to go, but I would like someone who has done this to give as much info as possible so there are no suprises down the road. The Blockshop here in town said they built this setup using Edlebrock heads, and a 231/237 Dur Cam. Thanks for any advice or info in advance. I was originally going to go for 350-375hp but if that is going to cost $4-5000, I might as well get another 100hp for an extra grand. Providing it is streetable. Thinking of looking for a Dart or Coronet to put it in with 3.55 gears, not sure about the stall.

Cheers,

Joe Welder

Newf Wit a 440

After doing a little reading on six packs I think I would be in over my head as to how to tune and maintain this setup. Does anyone know what a 440 Magnum setup came with?? This may be the better route. Thanks.

bremereric

A six pack setup is going to cost you. 1970 Charger with a 520 stroker and six pack setup was a dog. My buddy sent the carbs to a guy in Kentucky and 4 weeks and 500 dollars later they came back. It lit up the tires after that. Get you a nice 4 barrel carb and spend the money on tuning it.

John Van

Joe, I highly recommend you get yourself a good book about big block mopars like Andy Finkbeiner's "How to Build Max-performance Mopar Big-Blocks. It's filled with a lot of good info! I also agree with Bremereric about the six-pack being way money and a PITA. It may be impressive when you pop the hood,but a single 4-barrel would be easier and faster.

john

440roadrunner

You want the HP or the "look?" If you want the HP you'd be better off with a big 4bbl.

Newf Wit a 440

Thanks John,

I've been meaning to order that book and I'm going to do that right now. I did recently get a book (Big Block Mopars-Don Taylor) to help with the disassembly & re-build, but it doesn't do much for the selection of new performance parts. He also states you can only go .020 over on the later 440's in this book, which I hear is a bunch of baloney. Can you confirm this? Otherwise the book seems not bad save for the B/W photos. One would think that by 94' color pics would be a no-brainer. Thanks again that book you suggested. It is in the mail! I'm sure I'll be back with more questions. haha.

Cheers,

Joe

Newf Wit a 440

Actually it's not quite in the mail yet...I was just reading some reviews and looking at the cover, is that book more for strokers and if the lowest hp rating is 600 than I'm not sure that it will be a good one for my milder build of 350-400hp. What about this one, Big Block Mopar Performance-High Performance and Racing Modifications for B&RB Series Engines?? They may be both equal I'm not sure, If anyone out there has read this one, could you please give some feedback. Thanks.

Joe

John Van

Both books are great, Andy's is from 2009, while Chuck's is from 1999,both deal with stock and stroker motors. And for the blocks,always get them sonic tested to see how much over you can go on the cylinder bore. My '74 block is .055 over,been running for it over 12 years now. john

Newf Wit a 440

Thanks again, I'll go with the newer version as it may have more up to date aftermarket selection on performance parts. So that article on 440 sources web site about being able to go .060 over on all 440 blocks may not be accurate after all. I only planned to do the minimum anyways. Hopefully only .020 but I will find out soon enough. I do have access to Ultra Sonic equip as I am a pressure welder in a Chem manufacturing plant. I'll be starting the tear down next week. Any advice on proper storage of crankshafts? Thanks.

Joe

Mr. Belvedere II

Hey Newf, Your smog 440 could easily hit the 350-400 hp mark. Here's a quick basic recipe : some factory
"906' or "915" iron heads,comp cams XE274H cam, an edelbrock performer RPM manifold, Holley 750 carb and some 1 3/4" headers. This combo will get you where you want to be. Even if your compression ratio is still in the dumps i.e. 8-1/8.5-1 you will still be making close to 400 hp without cracking open the bottom end, which tends to get very expensive quickly. Hope this helps.

bremereric

My 1973 Motor Home block is .060 over with no problems.

John Van

Joe, I was taught a long time ago just to hang the crankshafts from the flange end, just to keep them from falling and taking up less room. Just rub it down with oil and cover with plastic to prevent rust.

john

bremereric

I spray them down with some Mystic oil and bag them.

Newf Wit a 440

Thats awesome, Would the 452 heads be comparable to those heads you mentioned. I was thinking of getting a port temp kit from PM and doing them myself. A friend has an extra set if I ruin them. Also, if I use the factory bottom end and just change the pistons, rings and cam, would I have to have the balance done? I was reading that the balancing has more to do with the crank and rods which I was planning on re-using. From what I understand (very little to date), is that the cast crank is externally balanced with the torque converter. If I go with this setup will I need to have a stall? The engine is still bolted to the 727 and I plan to start the tear down next week.

Cheers,

Joe

Newf Wit a 440

Oh, one other thing about not cracking open the bottom end, I don't know the history of this engine, other than it came from a bone yard and out of a van. Otherwise I might just do the top end stuff and leave it. I think in this case though, I'll tear it down to the bare bones and start by checking out the wear on the crank, bores, etc. If all checks out I may not even need to bore over the cylinders, just a hone. I'll keep my fingers crossed. So if I'm not looking to build a stroker and just upgrade the pistons and top end, will I need to have the block deck shaved? I was thinking of going with these pistons: Summit Racing Part NumberTRW-L2355F Besides Cam, springs and lifters, would the rest of my stock valve train be re-useable (rocker assy and push rods)?? Thanks.

Joe

Newf Wit a 440

If I go stock bottom end and reuse everything(replace bearings and rings) and just do the top end stuff that Mr. Belvedere II has suggested, but add Stealth heads, should I have the rod bolts resized?? Thanks.

Joe

bremereric

I personnally would not add any new parts top or bottom without blowing the whole thing apart and sending it to a machine shop. Bore/Hone. Deck it .010 or more to clean it up. New cam bearings, new freeze plugs and the block cleaned and prepped. That includes using bottle brushes to clean out the oil passages. I got my 318 block done for 350 bucks from a machine shop I have used for many years. If you use the same crank you will not need the mains aligned bored. M2C

Newf Wit a 440

I like that plan. A fresh start.

Cheers