440 stroker main bearing clearance.
 

Hi! Im building a 440 to 493 stroker. Block bored to 4.35", Mahle ft 4032 piston, eagle 4.150" crank, eagle h rods 6.760 and supposed compression ratio 10.75:1, edelbrock e-street heads, edelbrock performance intake and edelbrock avs 800 cfm carburator, camshaft compcam xe275hl, i dont know what power range this going to give me but supposed around 500hp. The thing is the machine shop that bored my block, they have going on with this stuff from the 60'is and know alot they not want to line hone my block bec he say the main caps was tight and good and all was round and nice. I check my bearing clearance with micrometer and cylinderbore gauge and get 3 of them to 0.0011" and the last 2 to 0.0015", its to tight i know but i going to get King bearings with 0.001" extra clearance and that in the theory would give me 0.0021" at the tightest ones and my machine shop guy say thats ok bec this car only going to be driven at the street and no race so my question is, is 0.002" clearance enough for my motor that only going to be driven at the street?

Should be good to go.. :)

I think your thinking is a little low on the power level, 550 - 570 range.

Sounds great, i checked it up with the extra clearance bearing and i have 0.002" on all 5

Ok, that sounds even better!

I have check clearance with the extra clearance bearings and i have 0.002" on all 5 so i assembled the crank and check my axial play and thats 0.00350" so thats also good, the crank turns freely with a small recistance and im able to turn the crank with a few fingers on the crank snout and it feels the same the whole 360 degree revolution so its all good i believe😊

That's with assembly lube?

yes its with Clevites thick assembly lube

And when i say recistance i mean 1-2 ft lbs so its not recistance like that its more a sucking feeling from the thick lube i belive

That's what I was looking for.

I looked up your cam specs and I'm going to revise my opinion a little with 525 to 550 but torque will be the same and that's what shreds tires.
the 5.25 lift is why, if you had 5.70 with a roller cam I think the hp number would go up.

I prefer mechanical flat tappets myself , I have the cam nitrated and haven't had problems with cams.

Sounds great! That is what worried me a bit, the break in with the hydralic flat tapped but hopefully it is going to go well, im going to put Joe gibbs cam lube on the lobes when assemble and when its time to break in Joe gibbs break in oil and do what i can for make it start right up. I think this set up going to be great in my pretty heavy Chrysler 300 -64, im upgrade the driveline to a tci streetfighter and 2500 stall converter and the 8 3/4 axle get a new power lock and gears 3:55 and some new drive axles. Later im maybe upgrade with some new rear wheels because i think its going to be hard to not smoking the tires everywhere with my usuall street tires sit there now.

I've been using Joe Gibbs for the startup

I'm the guy that works outside the box.... >>>>> https://www.liqui-moly.com/en/compan...many-3280.html

OR

http://www.oilextreme.com/oil1.html

If it work for Holton HEMI'S... It's good enough for me.... It's about 3/4 of the way down the page... :):)

http://www.oilextreme.com/index.html

:) :)

Thank you all for your answers:)

Only when they let you out Bob.....🙂

Your so rite....lol

Hi! I just want to make an update from Sweden, my 493 cui stroker engine and the car is ready, this engine build be a succes, i break in the camshaft 1 week ago, the engine starts right up and the 20 minute break in at minimum 2000 rpm went really well, i change the oil(Joe gibbs br30) and cut up the oil filter and there was nothing, totally clean and the oil looks great, a little black from the Joe gibbs assembly lube i be very generous with on the cam and bottom of the lifters and also on the pushrod tips and valve tips and oilpump driveshaft gear and fuel pump arm, and little fine silver powder in from piston ring to cylinder wall break in, not any metal parts at all. I change oil to Joe gibbs hr2 10w 30 oil and fired it up again the next day, it runs really good and i have good oil preassure, i use comp cams 922-16 hydraulic lifters with hole in for oil through pushrod and also pushrods with holes through, so i have oil both through the rocker arm shaft from number 4 cam bearing and through the pushrod and still have 25 psi at 900 rpm idle hot engine with 10w 30 oil witch is plenty enough, the oil preassure raise with rpm, at 2000 rpm i have 45 psi hot engine so it all good, i have 0,002" main bearing clearance and the same on rod bearings, the engine runs great and the all the pushrod spins witch is a good sign, the wear pattern on the cam from what i can see through the distributor hole looks good to, i show that in one of the pictures here. I planning to drive it pretty easy for awhile so everything can break in properly, i just couldnt hold my self yesterday and wanted to feel the power a little, so i stopped on an empty road and put in number 2 in the Tci 727 streetfighter in give it about half throttle and the wheels spin loose and leave 2 black stripes on the road about 15 meters, i stoped there but i could have continue how long i wanted, so i see the Eaton true trac works great in my 8 3/4 rear end to. Im really happy my engine build seems to have go so good, the engine really runs like a dream.
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/moparfo...838249d3ef.jpg
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/moparfo...ac36bf9e34.jpg

Awesome.. Thank For the Up Date.. Mopar on :)

Once you get the cam broke in drive it like you stole it, well maybe not that hard but run it as hard as your going to.🙂