Cam selection
#1
Cam selection
Im about to button up the motor and drop it in, but keep having this feeling that I should be going with a different cam. I currently have the purple shaft, 474 lift and 280 dur., stock crank n rods, .30 flat top pistons, 906 heads P&P. Want to run nitrous too so wondering if this cam suits my needs? Anyone have some input? Thanks
#3
69 -
If you're talking about the 383, those numbers sound good in a real world sense. It won't be the fastest or "lumpiest" idling car on the block, but even with a stock rear, it will be very drivable while still producing plenty of power and you may not need a list of gas stations every time you take the car out.
Like Tim implied, you really have to consider the rest of the engine/car to get the most out of it. With those specs. the typical power band will be in the 3000 - 5000 rpm range (+/-), so choose the other "stuff" accordingly.
Sorry, can't help ya with NO2
Archer
If you're talking about the 383, those numbers sound good in a real world sense. It won't be the fastest or "lumpiest" idling car on the block, but even with a stock rear, it will be very drivable while still producing plenty of power and you may not need a list of gas stations every time you take the car out.
Like Tim implied, you really have to consider the rest of the engine/car to get the most out of it. With those specs. the typical power band will be in the 3000 - 5000 rpm range (+/-), so choose the other "stuff" accordingly.
Sorry, can't help ya with NO2
Archer
#6
Why wouldnt they? They are all forged...Thats why I kept it stock length and not stroked. I believe the stock rods were used by many in professional circle track or drag, cant rememebr which I read but Im not going insane, looking like its gonna be around 500-550 on the motor plus the nos. I dunno though, could be wrong
#7
The only other stock parts on the motor is the 906 heads, which were re worked, P&P'd, and the crank & I know thats not gonna be an issue. What other parts should I check again?
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09-22-2011 11:18 AM