Died now & won't start
05-15-2008, 05:05 AM
#1
Guest
Posts: n/a
Died now & won't start
I have a 74 Cuda with a 440 dual point with Accel super coil been starting good but after I started it & pulled from the garage & did a short free rev all of a sudden I seen the tach nose dive & it died. I attempted to restart it but it seems like it wants to start but never does, never back fires. I checked for fuel carb, even shot a little ether in to see but still no start, started trouble shooting a little tested coil shows .9 ohms & 12000 checked lead from ballast got a erratic reading & small arcing taking place so replaced it. Tried to start , no luck shows 12.5 volts from ballast. Any way I can test distributor? any other suggestions? I need some help!!
05-15-2008, 09:51 PM
#2
Time for back to basics.
First, you are running simple dual points and coil, no electronics, is that correct?
Do you have the ballast that the Accel recommends for the coil?
First, with the key on, and you need a voltmeter or lamp, measure from the coil neg. (dist side) to ground. bump the engine and see if you have 12 or not, as you bump the engine, or the light will light/ not light, as the points open and close.
If not, go to the "ign" side of the ballast, and you should see very close to battery voltage. When cranking, you should see probably 11V at least.
The coil side of the ballast will vary. If the points close, this voltage could be very low.
Have you tried pulling the coil wire, and either hooking it to an old plug, or holding close to the block? You should be able to crank and get a spark. Do this with a helper, using the key. If you do this using a remote switch, or by jumpering the start relay, you will not get "ign2" or resistor bypass, and the spark will be weak from low voltage.
Do you have an old used coil (good) that you can sub?
ALSO if the voltage checks are good, and the points are opening/ closing, a bad condenser (capacitor) will not "make" spark. The car will not run without a condenser.
First, you are running simple dual points and coil, no electronics, is that correct?
Do you have the ballast that the Accel recommends for the coil?
First, with the key on, and you need a voltmeter or lamp, measure from the coil neg. (dist side) to ground. bump the engine and see if you have 12 or not, as you bump the engine, or the light will light/ not light, as the points open and close.
If not, go to the "ign" side of the ballast, and you should see very close to battery voltage. When cranking, you should see probably 11V at least.
The coil side of the ballast will vary. If the points close, this voltage could be very low.
Have you tried pulling the coil wire, and either hooking it to an old plug, or holding close to the block? You should be able to crank and get a spark. Do this with a helper, using the key. If you do this using a remote switch, or by jumpering the start relay, you will not get "ign2" or resistor bypass, and the spark will be weak from low voltage.
Do you have an old used coil (good) that you can sub?
ALSO if the voltage checks are good, and the points are opening/ closing, a bad condenser (capacitor) will not "make" spark. The car will not run without a condenser.
05-16-2008, 04:50 AM
#3
Guest
Posts: n/a
My cuda is an ex race car turned prostreet so the wiring isn't exactly stock, battery in trunk with Master Switch with Key switch to energize starter. It has an aftermarket dual point distributor really unsure of the make, no electronics. I don't really know whether it has an Accel Ballast but it has what appears to be a stock one which I checked 12V coming in but when I checked going out to the coil I had my probe grounded then touched the coil side of ballast and it started small arcing like a hot wire grounding which I thought the ballast was bad then replaced with stock ballast now I get 12.5Volts on both sides of Ballast. I thought always coil side should be less. I checked the coil & got .9 & 12000 ohms thought coil was good
but a friend is bringing his over just to try this weekend. I will try the coil wire trick & get back to you. Any way to check the distributor functioing properly? or condensor test? Also any easy way to check for a timing chain tooth might have jumped scenario. Any Hints gratefully appreciated? I'm an ole school Mopar trying to re live my youth I guess.
Thanks,
Raceware
but a friend is bringing his over just to try this weekend. I will try the coil wire trick & get back to you. Any way to check the distributor functioing properly? or condensor test? Also any easy way to check for a timing chain tooth might have jumped scenario. Any Hints gratefully appreciated? I'm an ole school Mopar trying to re live my youth I guess.
Thanks,
Raceware
Time for back to basics.
First, you are running simple dual points and coil, no electronics, is that correct?
Do you have the ballast that the Accel recommends for the coil?
First, with the key on, and you need a voltmeter or lamp, measure from the coil neg. (dist side) to ground. bump the engine and see if you have 12 or not, as you bump the engine, or the light will light/ not light, as the points open and close.
If not, go to the "ign" side of the ballast, and you should see very close to battery voltage. When cranking, you should see probably 11V at least.
The coil side of the ballast will vary. If the points close, this voltage could be very low.
Have you tried pulling the coil wire, and either hooking it to an old plug, or holding close to the block? You should be able to crank and get a spark. Do this with a helper, using the key. If you do this using a remote switch, or by jumpering the start relay, you will not get "ign2" or resistor bypass, and the spark will be weak from low voltage.
Do you have an old used coil (good) that you can sub?
ALSO if the voltage checks are good, and the points are opening/ closing, a bad condenser (capacitor) will not "make" spark. The car will not run without a condenser.
First, you are running simple dual points and coil, no electronics, is that correct?
Do you have the ballast that the Accel recommends for the coil?
First, with the key on, and you need a voltmeter or lamp, measure from the coil neg. (dist side) to ground. bump the engine and see if you have 12 or not, as you bump the engine, or the light will light/ not light, as the points open and close.
If not, go to the "ign" side of the ballast, and you should see very close to battery voltage. When cranking, you should see probably 11V at least.
The coil side of the ballast will vary. If the points close, this voltage could be very low.
Have you tried pulling the coil wire, and either hooking it to an old plug, or holding close to the block? You should be able to crank and get a spark. Do this with a helper, using the key. If you do this using a remote switch, or by jumpering the start relay, you will not get "ign2" or resistor bypass, and the spark will be weak from low voltage.
Do you have an old used coil (good) that you can sub?
ALSO if the voltage checks are good, and the points are opening/ closing, a bad condenser (capacitor) will not "make" spark. The car will not run without a condenser.
Last edited by raceware; 05-16-2008 at 04:54 AM.
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