will worn out tie rod ends cause the tires to toe in/out, therefore making a god awful squealing noise?

 

Definitely. Check all components to be sure and don't forget your lower control arm bushings. Front strut rod bushings can change your toe aswell.

 

Replaced the tie rod ends, helped ALOT. But then I took a semi fast turn and now the toe
Has turned in.


Any ideas what I should replace next?

 

Front strut rod bushing looks good

 

Front end of the car seems to have raised up some aswell

 

Sounds like control arm bushings, upper or most likely lower if it has flaoting toe in.

 

http://s412.photobucket.com/albums/p...1316887745.jpg


http://s412.photobucket.com/albums/p...1316887658.jpg

Let me know what y'all think about the current bushings

 

Can't see the bushings, they are on the other end of the control arm attached to the frame.

 

How experienced are you at front-ends? You might want to find a competent shop if this is new to you.

 

have the adjustment bushings that bolt to the shock towers on the body been replaced as well?

 

My bad, I was referring to the ball joints.

All of the bushings look fine, atleast to me and a guy from Midas
Though he thought the steering gear box was the source of the problem..but I believe the steering box would just cause some slob/slack while steering not the toe in/on

I was going to have pep boys or ntb check it out aswell but didn't care to wait 2 hours before they could look at my car.

Would the control arm ball joints be the source?

Nevertheless, I'll order them tomorrow.

 

67 gtx, I'll take a look later today.

 

What are you using to measure the toe?

Generally worn ball joints cause a lot of slop in the steering.....that's a pain in the *** job, too, make sure you're up for it!

 

Also, its impossible to tell if your ball joints are shot from looking at a picture.

Here's the test: Jack up the front end (safely, use jack stands) and put a big tire iron or some other bar under the tire. As you pull up on the bar, look at the ball joint....there should be no play.

 

A measuring tape and two pieces of board

I think there was a little up and down play when we checked before, but I didn't specifically watch the ball joints when lifting/moving the wheel

I'll try to check it all out this week

 

I guess if the car has a gazillion miles, and you dont think they have been done, just DO them. Along with the rest of the front-end if you plan on keeping it. Pep Boys and Midas are IDIOTS when it comes to older cars! Hit a cruise night and ask those guys who knows front-ends.

 

doing the whole front end this weekend, noticed no sway bar either thought that was odd. I guess not all of these cars came with them?

 

Do yourself a favor if this is new to you, get the FACTORY service manual for yor particular model and follow step by step procedure. The rebuilding of a front end is not the easiest job without proper tools specific for the job, i.e. ball joint sockets,pickle forks,hydr. press,etc. Don't try to "beat" your way through it, it will cost you more time and trouble then paying to have it done by an experianced old school mechanic.

 

Where can I pick one of those up at? Online only?
We have a press and o Reilly usually let's you rent whatever else

 

You can get a Haynes manual on ebay for like 20 bucks.

Rebuilding a front end, like anything else, is just nuts and bolts. That being said, some of those bolts won't want to move! An electric impact gun will help A LOT. Also, ball joints are such a pain. I had to beat at mine all day before they finally popped loose.

As for the stuff that gets pressed in....find a local machine shop to press in the bushings; they will be able to thread in the ball joints too.

Good luck, and keep asking questions!

 

Or can someone scan up the pages I need

 

Check on E-bay, new repros are about $60 and have seen them go as cheap as $40.Have also seen the CD versions. A hole lot more detail then the Haynes manual, will cover all variations of your model with lots of exploded diagrams and pics. Be carefull removing the torsion bars, back off the adjusters all the way and don't scratch or mar the bars to remove them.I ain't rocket science but they are a different then working on modern cars.

 

A Body but the tecniques are the same: http://www.moparmusclemagazine.com/t...t/viewall.html