grout / block filler
 

my block was grouted 3 months ago & is still soft is this normal ???
I'm hoping it needs heat from running to make it set or I'm gonna be faaarrrrking pissed off .
also is it common to misalign ( restrict ) oil hole with cam bearing for more oil pressure ???
thats what the machine shop dude did ???
me & my mate went happy about that so we made old mate tap it in a bit farther ( no 4 bearing ) until it lined up fully . old mate said it was a common thing to do :rolleyes: .
also i got a galley plug for the left oil passage to the lifters ( from 440 source ) i have read about this , have any of you guy's done this ( i have a solid cam ) i wanted to ask you guys before i installed this ????
as i have a hi vol oil pump with 1/2 pick up , bushed roller rockers , & all new clearances oil pressure should be good to go . but if adding the galley plug to the left oil passage to the lifters will benefit I'll use it .

Ollie do you know what brand of filler they used ? Was it Hard Blok ?
I am not sure on the oil block off plan. I would think more oil is good oil.

not sure what filler they used I'll call em & find out .
well the solid lifters don't need as much oil as hyd ones & i suppose that extra oil is better going to the heads & rockers & to make sure it gets there at 7000 rpm .
it's also important that the draining oil gets back to the sump too asap . i tryed to help this also buy cutting 10 extra slots in my std windage tray . i also have a 7 qt pan that's fully baffled + the windage tray that should keep the oil down where it's meant to be .

How soft is it? I doesn't setup like metal, you can scratch the surface a little, if you can "dent" it or it's crumbly then there was either a problem with the product or how it was mixed. It should be fully hardened before any machining is done so I don't see anyone making a product that would require heat. The Moroso filler I use is fully hardened in 24 hours and reaches it's full strength in about a month.

99% of all block filler material prepackaged kits sold are concrete or portland cement with added lime to make it harden quicker.

If it is not rock hard after 24-max 48 hrs something is wrong, hot tank the block and get as much of the stuff out as possible. Start over.

The blocks we do, we level one bank and pour let harden and then level other bank and pour let harden. Then let block sit for 14 days and do machine work. This levels the filler to the both decks of the block. ( yea I am talking about V engine types)

If the guy did not align the oil holes in the block and cam bearings he was just hurrying. They should be aligned or the bearings replaced, EXCEPT if you use full roller bearings then the holes must be 100% blocked.

Directly after installing cam bearings you must test fit a cam and adjust/cut bearings as necessary or knock out align bore the cam journals.

the grout
 

ok it's dense & i suppose it's hard .
but it feels slimy to touch . it's not crumbly , but using my finger nail i can scrape a top layer of slimy sh@t off the surface . it's not hard like concrete . maybe it's not meant to be rock hard as i suppose it could crack from vibration . mmmm I'm just a bit worried about that top layer of slimy sh#t weather thats gonna seal or weather I'll get debris going through my cooling system & blocking my radiator ????? we were gonna run it with a few layers of stocking over the radiator inlet for the cam brake in period .

well nobody has elaborated about the oil block off to the lifters ? if you guys build your own motors & don't do it i won't ether . but I'll give it a bit more time or try & find it on the net . no big deal i just bought it while i was ordering my parts just so it was here . instead of waiting for a little part to arrive from the other side of the world at the last second . it was $6 no big deal .