OK so i just finished installing my transgo shift kit and now whenever i start my car and shift it from P or N to D or R the car stalls out and just keeps doing it and if i can get it moving each time i go to a stop sign or traffic light the car stalls out. im thinking maybe when i installed the shift kit maybe my transmission throttle linkage might be out of wack causing it to stall and such. is this a possible cause for my problem if so whats the best way to adjust it.
thanks a lot
mike

P.S. i have a 1978 chrysler cordoba with a 360 2 bbl and a torqueflite 727 trans.

 

Just to eliminate any other possible issues, did you do anything else to the car at all?

Will the car shift and move around fine if you do not touch the accelerator?

 

when i get the car to move it shifts and moves great but it seems to stall out now

 

UPDATE: OK i made it so when in neutral/park she idles at about 1000rpm then when i put it in drive it drops to about 4 maybe 500rpm and drives, but if i try to put it in reverse the car stalls out, any one know what maybe happening or how to turn the rpm up for drive/reverse?
thanks a lot
mike

 

Could it be too much line pressure now trying to lock up both forward and reverse bands at the same time? Did you adjust the bands when you installed the Transgo kit?

 

did you unhook any vacuum lines when you installed the kit , take your breather off and when you put it in gear listen to see if it hisses from the carb from a high hiss to low when it stalls / cant remember but did you do it while the trans was in or out of the car ?

 

Is the vacuum line in the trans still hooked up?

 

i did it when the trans was in the car, where about is the trans vacuum line go to?

 

That's GM/Ford

 

There is a line in the 727 that goes into the tail, driver's side. If you did it in the car I would think you didn't even touch it.

 

A vacuum line???? As many mopars as I have seen and I am putting a 727 in my dart, it is on the trans stand right now, never saw a vacuum line on a 727. Don't think so.

 

there are no vacuum lines that ive ever seen on a 727 or a 904 that im aware of

 

sorry forgot but check your pcv on your valve cover to make sure its working properly ok and when you hit the brakes is there any differance in the idle

 

some times when i hit the brakes the idle will go down and some times like stall.

also BuckNeccid i adjusted the rear band but not the front one

 

try spraying some water on the hoses and see if it changes the tune of your engine, to me it sounds like a vacuum leak some where, you can use carb cleaner but you have to make sure you dont aim it at any spark (NO AIMING IT AT ANY SPARK)

 

Sorry about that, a Chevy guy told me that where the speedometer hooks up is a vacuum line. I just went with it.

 

NEVER EVER trust a CHEBY person cause they are so jelious of us

 

DAMN RIGHT!!!

 

the water trick works wonders with a vacuum leak. Did you play around with the kick down cable at all? Also, are you sure that you adjusted the band properly? Not saying you don't know what you are doing, just asking though.

 

whats the correct procedure for adjusting the band, to see if i did it right?

 

i hate not having my car up all the gears are working except reverse whenever i put it into R the car stalls out, then every now and then if i quick put it in R and give it some gas it will keep the car alive and work but that's like 1 out of 100 times. can that be vacuum related or what?

 

Tighten band adjusting screw to 72-inch lbs. and back off 2-1/2 turns. Tighten jam nut securely. (I always used 6 ft/lbs, or as close to that as I could get it since I don't have a torque wrench that measures in/lbs. This should put you very close)

 

is this for the front and rear band?

 

I just looked that up before I posted. I knew for sure it was correct for the front band, and they showed the same for the rear band as well.

 

ok thanks a lot man, i guess now i gotta make another journey on under my car now

 

hey i have been told 2 different things about what trans fluid i should use one person said mercon and another said ATF+4. whats the kind i should be using?

 

That's going to be up to you. I normally use Ford Mercon stuff, just cause it's a little heavier, and causes slightly tighter shifts. I think it calls for Dexron from the factory. (and I'll even admit to occasionally adding about 1/2 quart of 30 wt motor oil... ) I'm not a professional, this is just stuff that's worked for me over the years.

 

so i should just tighten the adjusting screw to about 6ftlbs then back it off the 2 1/2 turns?

 

Yeppers, that's how I've always adjusted mine. I hope you have a socket that will fit the adjuster