Radiator Shroud
06-17-2013, 07:14 PM
#1
Mopar Fanatic
Thread Starter
Radiator Shroud
I have an aftermarket Radiator; Griffin Thermal Products 1-26272-X. The current OEM fan isn't a perfect fit and the bottom two plastic bolt flanges are broken off and there is a small air gap on the bottom between the radiator and the shroud.
I'd like to know if someone here knows the correct shroud for this application? The car is a '69 RR with a 440. I've never been a fan of universal shrouds, as my experience has it that they universally don't fit anything.
I'd like to know if someone here knows the correct shroud for this application? The car is a '69 RR with a 440. I've never been a fan of universal shrouds, as my experience has it that they universally don't fit anything.
06-18-2013, 05:55 AM
#2
Mopar Lover
inri -
I have a Griffin radiator as well and the stock shroud fits perfectly. Have you thought of just contacting one of the Mopar graveyards for a replacement shroud? You might have to do a little tweaking to make the shroud fit, but it should be close if you pick the right one.
Archer
I have a Griffin radiator as well and the stock shroud fits perfectly. Have you thought of just contacting one of the Mopar graveyards for a replacement shroud? You might have to do a little tweaking to make the shroud fit, but it should be close if you pick the right one.
Archer
06-19-2013, 07:26 AM
#3
Mopar Fanatic
Thread Starter
inri -
I have a Griffin radiator as well and the stock shroud fits perfectly. Have you thought of just contacting one of the Mopar graveyards for a replacement shroud? You might have to do a little tweaking to make the shroud fit, but it should be close if you pick the right one.
Archer
I have a Griffin radiator as well and the stock shroud fits perfectly. Have you thought of just contacting one of the Mopar graveyards for a replacement shroud? You might have to do a little tweaking to make the shroud fit, but it should be close if you pick the right one.
Archer
I have the 440 shroud that can be purchased new from Summit. But, I think my problem is with the bottom holes on the shroud. I think I need different radiator supports that come with an angled mount for the radiator. If possible can you snap a couple of pics of how your shroud is mounted on the top and bottom? Specificy interested on how your shroud mounts and fits on the bottom?
Thank you.
06-19-2013, 08:19 AM
#4
Mopar Lover
inri -
This is an older picture, but you can see one of the shroud mounting bolts, the other three are in the same positions top and bottom as expected. The Griffin radiator mounting bracket has provisions for mounting the radiator to the support and the shroud to the radiator.
Archer
This is an older picture, but you can see one of the shroud mounting bolts, the other three are in the same positions top and bottom as expected. The Griffin radiator mounting bracket has provisions for mounting the radiator to the support and the shroud to the radiator.
Archer
Last edited by Archer; 06-19-2013 at 08:22 AM.
06-20-2013, 01:22 PM
#5
Mopar Fanatic
Thread Starter
inri -
This is an older picture, but you can see one of the shroud mounting bolts, the other three are in the same positions top and bottom as expected. The Griffin radiator mounting bracket has provisions for mounting the radiator to the support and the shroud to the radiator.
Archer
This is an older picture, but you can see one of the shroud mounting bolts, the other three are in the same positions top and bottom as expected. The Griffin radiator mounting bracket has provisions for mounting the radiator to the support and the shroud to the radiator.
Archer
Thank you for the photo.
I believe we may have different Griffin radiators and perhaps different shrouds. On my application there aren't any areas on the radiator to bolt the shroud to. Currently, the shroud is bolted on by the radiator mounts. They go over the top and on the bottom of the radiator on the corners and the mounts come with different metal extended angles to attach the shroud to. I think I may need different mounts to attach it with no gap, or perhaps the shroud is incorrect for the car. Come to think of it, it might be installed upside down?!
The shrouds numbers are 2785435, then below that 19079. It is a Chrysler shroud.
06-20-2013, 03:45 PM
#6
Mopar Lover
inri -
All I can tell you is that was the factory shroud that came with the car (and original 318). IIRC, when we ordered the Griffin, we told them we needed a direct bolt in match to the original. Everything lined up.
Sounds like you might have to do some fabricating.
Now, depending on the car's use and your budget, an electric fan(s) might be the best solution. Depending on the type / size of your current fan, you may recover 10 - 15 HP due to loss from parasitic drag.
If I were still racing, that's what I would do.
Archer
All I can tell you is that was the factory shroud that came with the car (and original 318). IIRC, when we ordered the Griffin, we told them we needed a direct bolt in match to the original. Everything lined up.
Sounds like you might have to do some fabricating.
Now, depending on the car's use and your budget, an electric fan(s) might be the best solution. Depending on the type / size of your current fan, you may recover 10 - 15 HP due to loss from parasitic drag.
If I were still racing, that's what I would do.
Archer
06-20-2013, 04:43 PM
#7
Mopar Fanatic
Thread Starter
inri -
All I can tell you is that was the factory shroud that came with the car (and original 318). IIRC, when we ordered the Griffin, we told them we needed a direct bolt in match to the original. Everything lined up.
Sounds like you might have to do some fabricating.
Now, depending on the car's use and your budget, an electric fan(s) might be the best solution. Depending on the type / size of your current fan, you may recover 10 - 15 HP due to loss from parasitic drag.
If I were still racing, that's what I would do.
Archer
All I can tell you is that was the factory shroud that came with the car (and original 318). IIRC, when we ordered the Griffin, we told them we needed a direct bolt in match to the original. Everything lined up.
Sounds like you might have to do some fabricating.
Now, depending on the car's use and your budget, an electric fan(s) might be the best solution. Depending on the type / size of your current fan, you may recover 10 - 15 HP due to loss from parasitic drag.
If I were still racing, that's what I would do.
Archer
I've been highly contemplating converting over to the Viscous fan setup. I've heard a many horror stories about the Flex-a-lites flying off at high RPM's (at which my motor was build to run at). There are 4 Grade 5 bolts securing the fan now.
I have a 70 amp alternator right now and I'm the furthest thing from an electrician. I'm not sure what voltage/wattage/ac/dc stuff I'd need if I made the conversion. That's why I prefer the mechanical fans
06-20-2013, 07:01 PM
#8
Mopar Lover
inri -
I've been using flex fans since I first built the car (late 1970s) and never had one "fly off" or fail in any way. The engine has a 6,200 redline, but normal track shifts were slightly under 6K, due to the rear gears. (The huge fan I have is supposed to be good for 8K.) Any thing can fail, but flex fans have been around for a long time - so basically, if you want horror stories, you can find them just about any thing.
The viscous or "clutch fan" should theoretically reduce parasitic drag, but I have a little trouble fully buying into the theory, even with the available data. (I'm quirky that way.)
The electric fans do require additional wiring, which may (again in theory) pose another failure point, but when you consider that almost every new car on the road is using one (or more), it too goes down on the "things to worry about" list.
Look, I'm still using a flex fan, even though I "know" better - but if it ain't broke...
Archer
I've been using flex fans since I first built the car (late 1970s) and never had one "fly off" or fail in any way. The engine has a 6,200 redline, but normal track shifts were slightly under 6K, due to the rear gears. (The huge fan I have is supposed to be good for 8K.) Any thing can fail, but flex fans have been around for a long time - so basically, if you want horror stories, you can find them just about any thing.
The viscous or "clutch fan" should theoretically reduce parasitic drag, but I have a little trouble fully buying into the theory, even with the available data. (I'm quirky that way.)
The electric fans do require additional wiring, which may (again in theory) pose another failure point, but when you consider that almost every new car on the road is using one (or more), it too goes down on the "things to worry about" list.
Look, I'm still using a flex fan, even though I "know" better - but if it ain't broke...
Archer
Last edited by Archer; 06-20-2013 at 07:04 PM.
06-20-2013, 08:24 PM
#9
Mopar Fanatic
Thread Starter
inri -
I've been using flex fans since I first built the car (late 1970s) and never had one "fly off" or fail in any way. The engine has a 6,200 redline, but normal track shifts were slightly under 6K, due to the rear gears. (The huge fan I have is supposed to be good for 8K.) Any thing can fail, but flex fans have been around for a long time - so basically, if you want horror stories, you can find them just about any thing.
The viscous or "clutch fan" should theoretically reduce parasitic drag, but I have a little trouble fully buying into the theory, even with the available data. (I'm quirky that way.)
The electric fans do require additional wiring, which may (again in theory) pose another failure point, but when you consider that almost every new car on the road is using one (or more), it too goes down on the "things to worry about" list.
Look, I'm still using a flex fan, even though I "know" better - but if it ain't broke...
Archer
I've been using flex fans since I first built the car (late 1970s) and never had one "fly off" or fail in any way. The engine has a 6,200 redline, but normal track shifts were slightly under 6K, due to the rear gears. (The huge fan I have is supposed to be good for 8K.) Any thing can fail, but flex fans have been around for a long time - so basically, if you want horror stories, you can find them just about any thing.
The viscous or "clutch fan" should theoretically reduce parasitic drag, but I have a little trouble fully buying into the theory, even with the available data. (I'm quirky that way.)
The electric fans do require additional wiring, which may (again in theory) pose another failure point, but when you consider that almost every new car on the road is using one (or more), it too goes down on the "things to worry about" list.
Look, I'm still using a flex fan, even though I "know" better - but if it ain't broke...
Archer
Good point regarding failure on just about anything. Yes, the flex fan I use is supposedly good for up to 10k RPM's, so shifting several thousand less should put me on the safe side of things.
Most definitely will either stay with what I have or change to a Viscous fan. At this point in the horsepower game any potential increase of 15 or so HP will only be felt in the ET at the track. Just looking at better ways to cool the car, and if possible free up an HP in the process. The car runs cool but I guess I'm looking for newer ways to make it a bit cooler.
Perhaps next year I'll install an electric water pump and run a couple of fans on the radiator. I imagine those changes combined would slightly reduce engine temps that I get know with a high flow aluminum water pump and flex fan?
06-21-2013, 06:01 AM
#10
Mopar Lover
inri -
I guess my biggest concern with the clutch fan is it's cooling ability. (Mine is typically around 170, and I like it there...) Cooling is just a function of radiator surface area and air flow. The fan I'm using is huge and moves a heck of a lot of air. The blades on most clutch fans are smaller and there are usually less of them.
BTW - I think the stock 65-70 amp alternator should handle the electric fan without sweating. But, I think you're right, the HP loss from the flex fan is greatest at higher rpm, and that should only show up on the track or dyno.
Archer
I guess my biggest concern with the clutch fan is it's cooling ability. (Mine is typically around 170, and I like it there...) Cooling is just a function of radiator surface area and air flow. The fan I'm using is huge and moves a heck of a lot of air. The blades on most clutch fans are smaller and there are usually less of them.
BTW - I think the stock 65-70 amp alternator should handle the electric fan without sweating. But, I think you're right, the HP loss from the flex fan is greatest at higher rpm, and that should only show up on the track or dyno.
Archer
06-21-2013, 08:07 AM
#11
Mopar Fanatic
Thread Starter
inri -
I guess my biggest concern with the clutch fan is it's cooling ability. (Mine is typically around 170, and I like it there...) Cooling is just a function of radiator surface area and air flow. The fan I'm using is huge and moves a heck of a lot of air. The blades on most clutch fans are smaller and there are usually less of them.
BTW - I think the stock 65-70 amp alternator should handle the electric fan without sweating. But, I think you're right, the HP loss from the flex fan is greatest at higher rpm, and that should only show up on the track or dyno.
Archer
I guess my biggest concern with the clutch fan is it's cooling ability. (Mine is typically around 170, and I like it there...) Cooling is just a function of radiator surface area and air flow. The fan I'm using is huge and moves a heck of a lot of air. The blades on most clutch fans are smaller and there are usually less of them.
BTW - I think the stock 65-70 amp alternator should handle the electric fan without sweating. But, I think you're right, the HP loss from the flex fan is greatest at higher rpm, and that should only show up on the track or dyno.
Archer
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/gri-1-26272-x
Do you think a 3 core would cool it a bit more? I normally run around 180 ish degrees, but it can sneak up in stop and go.
06-21-2013, 10:56 AM
#12
Mopar Lover
inri -
I don't know the model number (it's not marked), but I'm running a 4 row core. We ordered it directly from Griffin and had to insist on the 4 row core.
Mine doesn't look anything like the one in the picture and it does have the internal tranny cooler.
If you are running a 180* t-stat, the radiator is doing it's job. (I'm running a 160*)
Archer
I don't know the model number (it's not marked), but I'm running a 4 row core. We ordered it directly from Griffin and had to insist on the 4 row core.
Mine doesn't look anything like the one in the picture and it does have the internal tranny cooler.
If you are running a 180* t-stat, the radiator is doing it's job. (I'm running a 160*)
Archer
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