Stuck removing 440 crank
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Stuck removing 440 crank
Hi All,
I was wondering if someone could tell me if I'm missing something here. I'm at the point of pulling the Crank out of my 440 block and I've run into this issue. The manual says I'll need a 7/6 12point socket to remove the rear seal retainer bolts(alum square box) which also happens to half-block the last 2 main bearing bolts. I have 2 12 point sockets but neither of them seems to fit into the hole surrounding those bolts in the Alum retainer. I'll try and add a pic to this post and hopefully someone can give me a little direction. One of my sockets is a proto, so not exactly thick wall. The other is just a generic.
The only way I see as getting to these bolts is:
1. Die grind around the hole to relieve it to allow the socket down.
2. Grind down the outside of the socket to fit the hole.
3. Try and source a Snap on thin wall socket.
Has anyone else run into this problem before? Thanks for any help.
Joe Welder
I was wondering if someone could tell me if I'm missing something here. I'm at the point of pulling the Crank out of my 440 block and I've run into this issue. The manual says I'll need a 7/6 12point socket to remove the rear seal retainer bolts(alum square box) which also happens to half-block the last 2 main bearing bolts. I have 2 12 point sockets but neither of them seems to fit into the hole surrounding those bolts in the Alum retainer. I'll try and add a pic to this post and hopefully someone can give me a little direction. One of my sockets is a proto, so not exactly thick wall. The other is just a generic.
The only way I see as getting to these bolts is:
1. Die grind around the hole to relieve it to allow the socket down.
2. Grind down the outside of the socket to fit the hole.
3. Try and source a Snap on thin wall socket.
Has anyone else run into this problem before? Thanks for any help.
Joe Welder
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Joe welder
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NPT taper taps on the oil gallery pipe plug threads to clean them up. There is about a half a dozen of them on the block. You have to be carefull chasing these threads though, cause they are tapered and if you go too deep you risk not having a proper seal.
I will also use bottoming taps on all threads in the block for better torque values when it comes time to reassemble the engine. Especially the mains and head bolt holes. These are an NC thread though. I will have to measure thread count on the bolts to figure out which ones I need.
I am going to do this prior to sending out for hot tanking.
Cheers,
Joe
I will also use bottoming taps on all threads in the block for better torque values when it comes time to reassemble the engine. Especially the mains and head bolt holes. These are an NC thread though. I will have to measure thread count on the bolts to figure out which ones I need.
I am going to do this prior to sending out for hot tanking.
Cheers,
Joe
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