I've noticed lately (Not just on here, but on other forums and even out in the real world) that many people get stumped on the differences on a "727 TF" and a "904 TF".

To view the pictures, just click on them, and you can also zoom in from there for a closer look.



727 on the left 904 on the right (output shaft hanging out)

This image shows a side by side comparison of a Small block 727 and a Small block 904. Notice the bulge on the top right side of the 727? That's one way to tell the different when the transmission is in the car.

Also note the "rib" on the 904 where the end of the bell meets the case.








727 in the first picture (empty case) 904 in the second picture (has the front pump in it)

In these two pictures the bell housings look nearly the same, but yet are different. The top has a different formation to it.

Also note that the dowel pin hole on the 904 is on the "driver" side, where as it is located on the "passenger" side on the 727.


I hope this will help clear up some confusion on ID'ing 904s and 727s. I've been studying these things for about 2 years now, and have only learned the tip of the ice berg. These transmissions are very mysterious.

If anyone wants, I can start a thread on the rebuilding-rebuilding process of my 904 (the one pictures). Long story, but its needing a second rebuild.


Also, one last note:Both 727s and 904s ARE torque flights.


-nick

 

Here is a site I cam across that some people may be interested in.

http://www.moparsbymosher.com/specs/...ansmission.htm

Feel free to add more Mopar transmission sites to this thread.

 

http://www.autopartstore101.info/sho...l_Applications

Here is a good book that all who plan on rebuilding thier 727 transmissions should have.

 

 

here is a good one for the manauls: http://www.passonperformance.com/
i have used them before
very good and very respected

 

http://www.motortopia.com/car-clubs/...ge1#post_11541

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/rep...00c1528007fe7c

 

When filling your 435 with gear oil, we recommend that you select a conventional mineral oil or a para-synthetic in lieu of a full synthetic oil. Properly assembled manual gearboxes do not have the thermal strains seen by combustion engines or hypoid gears. Synthetic fluid in these gearboxes, while not harmful, is probably an economic waste.

Hypoid gear oil is sulphurized higher than transmission oil and can be mildly corrosive to the non-ferrous alloys used for synchros, bushings and thrust washers in these transmissions.

An 80W-90, API-GL5 or MT-1 rated fluid is very good. Some claim faster shifts from using a 50W engine oil in their transmission and we do not consider this to be contraindicated unless you operate your vehicle in a very warm environment.

 

A and A Transmisions for automatic and Brewers Performance for manual.

http://www.aandatrans.com/Default.aspx

http://www.brewersperformance.com/