So I think the max lift for stock EQ heads is .520" with 2.02" valves. What would I have to do to run a higher lift cam? Idea on how much more it would cost to do? Want to keep the bottom end stock as it's still very healthy.

The heads should flow 251 CFM at .500" lift, so I don't fully understand why 450+hp is hard to achieve based on what I've been reading on other forums. Please educate me, I'm a total noob trying to learn as fast as I can.

Porting raises cost a ton and I don't want to spend too much on this. Hoping I can get the top end done for under $3k.

I already have headers and an SCT tuner. Want to get as much power possible out of my Jeep while still being able to drive it around town.

Any recommendations on where to buy heads, cam, valvetrain at? Hughes is pretty expensive. Cost almost doubles when porting is involved on a set of EQ heads.

$1200 2.02 heads
$650 air gap intake
$250 throttle body
$400 camshaft
$160 springs
$70 retainers
$100 timing kit
$120 pushrods
$100 head bolts
$150 misc crap
Total= $3200

Lifters, rockers and a damper would add another $1000. So I have to keep revs down around 6k correct? Was thinking 6800 rpm if I did the few things listed above. New to domestic v8's so I may be missing some obvious things on the list. Thanks for any help!!!

 

You would need to have the valve guides re machined or replaced and possibly special retainers and different rocker arms

 

Any recommendations on a camshaft? I'd like to try using the stock rockers so I doubt they could handle a serious cam over 6k. Most likely unported 2.02 eq heads.

 

I have used these cutters with a hand held cordless drill with great results. Cut the guide diameter for matching seal and cut guide down for more lift, if wanted.

http://www.compcams.com/catalog/COMP...g_2012_362.pdf

 

I'm an idiot when it comes to modifying stuff. Would rather let a machine shop handle it. Mainly curious what kind of lift I could gain by machining valve clearances with the stock pistons. I've read about others running over .600 lift but no one explains how they did it. If I could gain some decent lift I'd rather go for a cam with shorter duration and max lift. Thanks!

 

I've not heard of cutting stock cast pistons and don't think it can be done as the head is thin with no additional material in the area to be cut.

When trying to add lift to a stock engine the area of concern is Intake valve opening as it passes TDC the valve is opening and "Chases the Piston" down the hole. I've done this on one of my son's engines but requires timing wheel, dial indicator, adjustable crank sprocket and a lot of patience. This was an exercise in putting together some stuff we had and see what happens, not the best philosophy for a reliable build.

For 450+hp from a 360 c.i. engine a piston change will be required or turbocharging/supercharging a stock short block.

 

Sorry I should have typed that better. What kind of lift could I obtain by machining down the valve guides? Guy at Comp Cams asked me if I could find out. Don't know what cam to go for.

Any idea how much it would cost for a machine shop to cut down the guides? Thanks.

 

Pistons, I would look at cutting the block for zero deck, flat top notched and .035"-.045" gasket for quench and see what compression you have with the closed chamber heads. It might be high enough for your goal without domes.

Guides, plan your build then choose a camshaft first, measure between retainer and seal + .100" and cut the guides to fit the cam not the other way around.

 

Is this going to be a street car or ??? What year ? California sucks as far as engine mods.. with the EPA/ARB No need to run the motor over 6K RPM unless you are racing it..
It is not just the cam, It needs to work as a total package.. Are you using the stock computer ? or old school carb , aftermarket EFI ?? It gets expensive in a big hurry...

 

Hughes recommended this cam to me, don't think it would get me to 400hp, but I also told them whatever cam would get me 0-100mph the quickest. SER1418ALN-10.
The unported 2.02 heads should flow 250cfm at .500" lift.

Truck is 4500lbs, 3.73 gearing, 32" tires, 2500 stall.

Currently have an SCT EFI Tuner, DT headers. Will add EQ 2.02 heads without porting, 1000cc TB, Hughes Air Gap intake, cam, and whatever fueling/ignition/valvetrain upgrades.

Yes daily driver but I don't mind swapping cams every couple years for smog if I can't get it to pass. I just need it to idle under 1200rpm, then they do a low idle and high idle test. No dyno roller machine smog. Headers have a CARB EO number and intake is smog compliant. Will most likely have to bolt up stock cat.

I don't want to do any machining or work on the short block. Not taking engine out of the Jeep. Hughes seems like they get easily annoyed by asking questions, so I'm bugging you guys instead

They quoted me around $3,725 but there's about $600 worth of stuff I don't want/need from them (rockers, oil pump, tune up, thermostat, TB core). So right around $3200 with valvetrain installed. I'd rather use the stock rockers since I'm not doing a crazy build or high rpm's. At least until I could afford some nice shaft mounted rockers.

EDIT: So I guess the highest lift cam I can run with stock magnum pistons is their SER2630ALN-10 cam. Curious why they wouldn't recommend this or the two other cams between this and the SER1418ALN-10.

 

http://www.hughesengines.com/Index/p...1&partid=30210

http://www.hughesengines.com/Index/p...=&partid=30217

 

I'd say forget the peak hp numbers and go with the cam that will give you the most torque with the tallest, longest, curve and the best heads you can find. With a torque peak @ 4400 or so you'd have a quick ride with decent pull down low in the 2800 range. If you can make 400 lbs + from 2800 to 5600 that's what going to make things move. The heads will bump the overall numbers, get the best ones you can find.

With 32" tires you need more gear, stall might work but not for big cam.
Probably why there not pushing a bigger cam.

Just buy a turbo kit for it!

 

They didn't recommend it because of the 4500lb reason.

 

Yep, that one to.

 

That makes sense but I'm still confused. If I'm on the go pedal with trans shifting at 6k, the rpm's will drop to ~5k. So wouldn't I want something that would make peak tq/hp(?) in that rpm range? Seems like the smaller cam would only help me in first gear during the launch, but everything after that a larger cam would be better?

I may be totally wrong, just how I'm picturing this in my head. I've noticed tq falls off pretty quick with a smaller cam at higher rpms, so that has me worried with a 4500lb brick. I'm okay with losing some low end if needed, but I don't see how I'd lose too much considering all the upgrades. Most smaller cams make tons of tq in the midrange where I spend the least amount of time driving. I'm either always under 2200rpm or flooring it. Man I wish they had a dyno for each cam they sold.

 

If you're only going to run the thing to 6000 rpm you want peak hp 400 rpm before or 5400 rpm. Peak torque depending on the cam will be 1300-1600 rpm less than that, around 4000 rpm., so you don't want to over cam.

I had forgotten about the 6K top end, good heads still very important.

 

The only way to achieve your requirements is with a modern engine with Variable Valve Timing and a computer engine management system.

 

Blower or turbo and tuner it's gotten easy, just expensive.

 

Save your current engine and get another core to rebuild the way you want. then YOU WILL have to swap motors when you have to have it smog ed.. YOU will definitely need the cat converter. Under the law they can give you a very expensive ticket and even impound your vehicle if you ever get stopped. Today you need an older vehicle that is exempt from smog

 

I think the cam hughes suggested is my best shot. I'd need more compression to make a larger cam worthwhile.

Trust me, I'd be running a rear mount junkyard holset right now if I wouldn't get harassed by police or smog. I keep my cars quiet as possible to not stand out but I can't do it with a turbo hanging under the truck. Swapped van manifolds would be possible but I'd hate to rip the manifolds and piping out every couple years. Supercharger would be nice but I'd still have to swap it out every couple years. Not nearly as bad but still not worth it because the cost. At least with NA I have a chance.

They wouldn't be able to point out what internals I'm running. I already have CARB legal headers, oem airbox, oem converter laying around, and a different intake manifold is fine so long as all smog equipped is still used. I never said I'd run without a cat converter. That's just asking to get caught.

In order to get a ref ticket I'd need something obvious an officer could point out. Worst case I'd have to swap an intake manifold even though I could prove legally I'm in the clear. All California requires for an AWD vehicle is for it to idle under 1200 (maybe 1400) rpm, no codes, monitors ready, and factory smog equipment in place.

I've had a previous BMW approved by a state referee for a completely different swap. Even with that I was running larger injectors with a tune and still passed. Four cylinder to a newer gen inline 6 with much shorter gearing.

I hate California smog laws with a passion, all that should matter is what gets emitted from the tail pipe.

 

I went round and round with the EPA only because they did not like the part #s on my working cat. This on a fed smog vehicle. It is only going to get worst. Failed because of a part # on my 98 Dodge van

 

I'm glad not to live in California! I'll take the snow and cold and run my hotrods on corn!