383 carb choice an woes
383 carb choice an woes
Hello all I'm here to try and help out a friend with his 68 charger general lee clone. It has a mild rebuilt 383 crate motor 214/224 442/465 cam on 112 I believe but may be wrong. Has 1 7/8 longtubes dual 2 1/2 exhaust weiand intake with a edelbrock 600 carb. Mopar electronic ignition with orange box. Tci 727 and a tci 2400 stall. He has been through many issues with vapor lock he has now ran a single 3/8 feed line no return and the updated intake gasket that. Locked off the the heat riser ports. It's to the point where it cruise and starts good even hot but still kinda hesitates under wot. He has been debating on jumpin up to a 750 carb but wanted some mopar enthusiasts opinion first. Also what shift points should he have with the current setup car has 3.73 gears. Thanks!
screamin'
It should handle the 750 vac or DP, but if you're getting some hesitation, the 600 may just need a little more tweaking. Besides things like jets, the right size power valve and accelerator cams, you might want to try a 1" 4 HOLE spacer under the carb, if you have hood clearance. I had a very slight hesitation without it, and zero with. The difference in throttle response was very noticeable.
As far as shift point, do you know the cam's power band?
Archer
It should handle the 750 vac or DP, but if you're getting some hesitation, the 600 may just need a little more tweaking. Besides things like jets, the right size power valve and accelerator cams, you might want to try a 1" 4 HOLE spacer under the carb, if you have hood clearance. I had a very slight hesitation without it, and zero with. The difference in throttle response was very noticeable.
As far as shift point, do you know the cam's power band?
Archer
1. Vapor Lock: If you think that is your issue consider running an little red or blue E pump and routing fuel away from all the heat, especially exhaust. consider a plastic spacer between carb and intake.
2. Don't change carbs until you have the hickups worked out. A 600 will work and unless you are running lean shouldnt be an issue. whats your peak rpm for hp? which leads my to..
3. As a guideline set shifts 400-500 rpms over peak HP provided you are carrying that peak and are not losing control of the valve train.
I like the cam choice and your build looks good! Should be a fun ride.
2. Don't change carbs until you have the hickups worked out. A 600 will work and unless you are running lean shouldnt be an issue. whats your peak rpm for hp? which leads my to..
3. As a guideline set shifts 400-500 rpms over peak HP provided you are carrying that peak and are not losing control of the valve train.
I like the cam choice and your build looks good! Should be a fun ride.
Also consider adding a vapor return system. First one I ever saw was on my 70 sixpack RR and THEY WORK. You can buy several metal can filters that make this easy
Wix nos 33040 (5/16), 33042 (3/8) filters have a built in 1/4 orificed return port. You will have to add a line back to the tank and figure a way to get it "in"
On my 67 Dart, I actually brazed a 1/4 tube into the front face of the tank. I believe you can buy "repop" fuel senders with two lines.
A rear pusher pump is a good idea
Insulating the fuel line
carb insulator spacers
Of course it may NOT be vapor lock, but rather a pump on the border line, or other slight restrictrion in the supply, IE collapsing suction hoses, partly plugged suction strainer.
Wix nos 33040 (5/16), 33042 (3/8) filters have a built in 1/4 orificed return port. You will have to add a line back to the tank and figure a way to get it "in"
On my 67 Dart, I actually brazed a 1/4 tube into the front face of the tank. I believe you can buy "repop" fuel senders with two lines.
A rear pusher pump is a good idea
Insulating the fuel line
carb insulator spacers
Of course it may NOT be vapor lock, but rather a pump on the border line, or other slight restrictrion in the supply, IE collapsing suction hoses, partly plugged suction strainer.
He went through vapor lock bad last summer and seance replaced all his fuel lines and is running a carb isolator gasket for heat. He recently put the updated intake gasket on and that helped ALOT before it would hesitate and nose over bad at 3500-4000rpm and wouldn't restart hot. Now it starts and cruises great just doesn't pull like it should. I've tried to get him to play with the carb more. He did recently actually go smaller in all the jets but went smaller on the rods as well and he said it didn't hesitate any more just still didn't pull well. Right. Now I believe he has 095 jets in the primary's down from 098s and the stock 95s in the secondaies by like I said a smaller rod and diff spring combo. I've told him to put the 098s back in the primary's and the 101s in the secondarys and just play with he rods and springs till I runs good but he is worried to kill the cruise side. Right. Is the all in timing is 32deg at 2500rpm and 52-54 with the vac advance at the same speed. I may get flamed for this but I'm a gm guy and ditched all my carbed setups for LSX swaPs lol. I enjoy working on all brands though. Thanks for the advise so far guys.
screamin '
You're running 52 - 54 total advance??? And you're not detonating??? Standard for a 440 is 32 - 34. Doubt a 383 will be 20 degrees more.
You do have the vac advance connected to a ported vacuum, and not manifold vac, right?
BTW - We generally don't bother the the vac advance on big blocks.
Archer
You're running 52 - 54 total advance??? And you're not detonating??? Standard for a 440 is 32 - 34. Doubt a 383 will be 20 degrees more.
You do have the vac advance connected to a ported vacuum, and not manifold vac, right?
BTW - We generally don't bother the the vac advance on big blocks.
Archer
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