ok so i got the 383 in the fury it had new points and new coil and it ran fine for a couple days then i threw it in reverse and it just quit now it wont start i can get it to turn over fine there's just no spark at the points what is the problem?

 

Check your ballast resistor- most likely the issue. You can jump it TEMPORARILY to see if it will fire and run by connecting the two push on terminals together. If that is the problem, they keep those at a good parts store. Buy two (spare). Also, make sure your points didn't weld themselves together, or the screw slipped... If you have your old coil, throw that on there and see if that was the problem.

 

Ty -

Other than a loose / fried wire somewhere, I'd go with what Rob said, but I would buy the spare resistor FIRST. (You'll need a spare one way or the other, and by passing it for any length of time can fry your coil.)

The other thing, is you said, you "threw it in reverse", if you have an automatic trany, you may want to see if the neutral safety switch is at fault. You might want to try starting in neutral instead of park.

Archer

 

Troubleshooting Mopar (specific) breaker point ignition is very simple once you understand a trick or two

1 Get your 12V test lamp (I KNOW you have one) and "rig" it with clip leads to the coil + terminal and ground so you can see it while operating the key Crank the engine USING THE KEY and NOT by jumpering the start relay You should get a fairly bright lamp. To compare, now jumper the start relay with the key in the 'run' position, and you will notice the lamp is MUCH dimmer, IF the bypass circuit is working properly It is IMPORTANT to understand that the ballast bypass circuit for starting (called IGN2 by Ma) is in the ignition switch on Mopars.

If you don't get a bright lamp in "crank" the bypass circuit is NOT working. This is simply ONE wire from a separate contact in the ignition switch, through the bulkhead, to the coil side of the ballast resistor, and traditionally brown in color. It is "hot" ONLY in start.

If you don't get a lamp with the key in "run" then the ballast resistor is bad, BUT IN THIS CASE the car will usually fire and run "in start" and die when the key is released to "run."

2 Now hook the lamp to the coil NEG terminal (the distributor side) and crank the engine again. You should see a blinking lamp as the points open close.

IF YOU do not see the lamp blink, your points are not opening or not closing. Time to pull the cap, are they loose? Did the rubbing block wear down? (Did you lube the rubbing block when you installed the points?) IF the points are opening and closing, and you have power to the coil, and no spark, it is either a BAD CONDENSER or a BAD COIL So replace the condenser because it's cheap, next try the coil.

Some afterthought: Has anyone been leaving the key in "run" with the engine off? This is hard on the ballast, the points, and the coil

 

all right thanks i am gonna go out and get it all today and ill let you know if that was the problem