Cam questions 318 magnum
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Gorts 5th (01-17-2013)
01-21-2013, 11:03 AM
#33
Today I responded to:
"I have pushrods in the length of 6.875 inches in stock. This would only be .005 of an inch longer than the length you specified and would work just fine for your application. These will cost you $7.15 each ($114.40 for a set of 16) plus shipping."
What do you think?
"I have pushrods in the length of 6.875 inches in stock. This would only be .005 of an inch longer than the length you specified and would work just fine for your application. These will cost you $7.15 each ($114.40 for a set of 16) plus shipping."
What do you think?
01-21-2013, 04:36 PM
#34
If you are gonna go over order the ones that you posted above from summit that were only .006 over for 26 bucks.
In all honesty unless you routinely zero that micrometer with a known reference it wont be close to accurate out that far. So spend 26 bucks and run her. 114 is pricey when you don't need hardened or heavy walled PR.
In all honesty unless you routinely zero that micrometer with a known reference it wont be close to accurate out that far. So spend 26 bucks and run her. 114 is pricey when you don't need hardened or heavy walled PR.
01-24-2013, 03:29 AM
#40
Ok, I order these I feel more comfortable
I will let you know
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/cr...2-16/overview/
I will let you know
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/cr...2-16/overview/
03-11-2013, 12:05 PM
#41
Hello, today I installed the pushrods and the problem persists maybe improved slightly,
stupid question:
to give it a try I can put a shim under the guideplate? just to make a test to see if the problem is
I also made a video but you do not understand very
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=elfr0...ature=youtu.be
stupid question:
to give it a try I can put a shim under the guideplate? just to make a test to see if the problem is
I also made a video but you do not understand very
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=elfr0...ature=youtu.be
03-11-2013, 12:31 PM
#42
Mopar Lover
if i hear correctly you are having noisy valves? the push rods did not fix it?
Pk1 asked if you had the heads milled you said yes also the block?.....
with these new facts i have a few questions pK1 will chime in on this also
Did you check for valve to piston clearance?... it takes only a slight contact to make noise.
when you had the heads reconditioned did they check the valve guides for proper clearance did they replace the valve locks and retainers?
did you check the rotating assembly for clearance?...are you using the proper harmonic balancer for your rotating assembly and the right flex-plate or torque converter?
i'm sorry these questions might have been asked already it is a long thread.
Pk1 asked if you had the heads milled you said yes also the block?.....
with these new facts i have a few questions pK1 will chime in on this also
Did you check for valve to piston clearance?... it takes only a slight contact to make noise.
when you had the heads reconditioned did they check the valve guides for proper clearance did they replace the valve locks and retainers?
did you check the rotating assembly for clearance?...are you using the proper harmonic balancer for your rotating assembly and the right flex-plate or torque converter?
i'm sorry these questions might have been asked already it is a long thread.
03-11-2013, 02:23 PM
#43
you're right you hear the sound of valves
not even changing pushrods noise remains, perhaps improved slightly
it had milled heads and also the block
no I have not checked the piston and valve clearance, but a month ago I removed the heads and pistons were not marked
yes valve locks and retainers new
I use this crankshafts:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/esp-434040006123
This harmonic balancer (included in the box were 3 different counter weights do not have it installed):
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/pfs-80012
flex-plate original 1995 5.2 318 years
torque converter (I had to make a new hole in the torque converter because it was not the same as the flex-plate):
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/hup-15-25lhd
do not worry, it is not a simple thing to understand this problem, you have already helped me a lot
not even changing pushrods noise remains, perhaps improved slightly
it had milled heads and also the block
no I have not checked the piston and valve clearance, but a month ago I removed the heads and pistons were not marked
yes valve locks and retainers new
I use this crankshafts:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/esp-434040006123
This harmonic balancer (included in the box were 3 different counter weights do not have it installed):
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/pfs-80012
flex-plate original 1995 5.2 318 years
torque converter (I had to make a new hole in the torque converter because it was not the same as the flex-plate):
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/hup-15-25lhd
do not worry, it is not a simple thing to understand this problem, you have already helped me a lot
03-11-2013, 03:05 PM
#44
Questions?
The directions I gave you are for the net lash rockers!!! Stock Magnums!! I just reread you opening post.
If you are using guide plates then you installed the 1425-kit with the roller tip / non roller fulcrum rockers? Correct??
Your valves are WAY loose!!!!!!
When you swap to the arp studs / olds guide plates and chevy rockers the system is no longer net lash. It is adjustable. The direction in the kit from Comp Cams are WRONG.
The ARP 3/8 24 count stud you are using yields .040 of depth into the lifter per one complete rotation clockwise. You need to tighten the rocker screw 1.5 times or 1 complete rotation and one half more once the rocker is at zero lash. Or when the pushrod drags the cup. The mopar roller lifter uses .060 preload. NOT 22 ft lbs!!!!
Do not shim the guide plates. Use a screw dirver or wedge to set them parallel to the head rail.
Can you post a video and reset your idle speed to 780 rpm. I need to hear that cam. So shoot an exhaust video at 780 rpm.
The directions I gave you are for the net lash rockers!!! Stock Magnums!! I just reread you opening post.
If you are using guide plates then you installed the 1425-kit with the roller tip / non roller fulcrum rockers? Correct??
Your valves are WAY loose!!!!!!
When you swap to the arp studs / olds guide plates and chevy rockers the system is no longer net lash. It is adjustable. The direction in the kit from Comp Cams are WRONG.
The ARP 3/8 24 count stud you are using yields .040 of depth into the lifter per one complete rotation clockwise. You need to tighten the rocker screw 1.5 times or 1 complete rotation and one half more once the rocker is at zero lash. Or when the pushrod drags the cup. The mopar roller lifter uses .060 preload. NOT 22 ft lbs!!!!
Do not shim the guide plates. Use a screw dirver or wedge to set them parallel to the head rail.
Can you post a video and reset your idle speed to 780 rpm. I need to hear that cam. So shoot an exhaust video at 780 rpm.
03-12-2013, 04:39 AM
#45
I use rockers and guide plates original'll put a photo
I'm sorry I can not do the test at 780 rpm the ECU because it is not yet the instrument if you want I can do a test to a minimum
it is normal that the original measure pushrods 6.9030 and those who have taken the Comp Crane CRN-36622-16 6.9140 measure?
I'm sorry I can not do the test at 780 rpm the ECU because it is not yet the instrument if you want I can do a test to a minimum
it is normal that the original measure pushrods 6.9030 and those who have taken the Comp Crane CRN-36622-16 6.9140 measure?
03-12-2013, 06:32 AM
#46
OK: Those are net lash. Sorry about the confusion. Your opening post has 1425-kit and when you said guide plates you lost me.
Those are 22 ft lbs on base circle rockers.
Did comp cams spec that spring for you? Ive done the math 3 times and its wrong. Or my math skills are poor.
Pull the valve springs. They are 110 ish closed and 260 closed for your set up. They are very weak rate wise for the XE lobe. They are fine for a Mopar cam.
You need a spring that delivers 120 closed and 300 open. Call comp and confirm. You can use hughes 1110 spring( http://www.hughesengines.com/Index/p...r&partid=10280 ) that is a 360 rate spring. Order 16 .030 shims as well. Your retainers and locks can be reused.
Those are 22 ft lbs on base circle rockers.
Did comp cams spec that spring for you? Ive done the math 3 times and its wrong. Or my math skills are poor.
Pull the valve springs. They are 110 ish closed and 260 closed for your set up. They are very weak rate wise for the XE lobe. They are fine for a Mopar cam.
You need a spring that delivers 120 closed and 300 open. Call comp and confirm. You can use hughes 1110 spring( http://www.hughesengines.com/Index/p...r&partid=10280 ) that is a 360 rate spring. Order 16 .030 shims as well. Your retainers and locks can be reused.
03-12-2013, 12:07 PM
#47
do not worry all wrong
ok send an e-mail to Comp
However, if the size of the push rods is 6.81 I can mount the push rods original measuring 6.90 by putting a thickness of 0.09 under the guide plates?
Just for a test?
ok send an e-mail to Comp
However, if the size of the push rods is 6.81 I can mount the push rods original measuring 6.90 by putting a thickness of 0.09 under the guide plates?
Just for a test?
03-13-2013, 04:16 PM
#50
I don't think they gave you good info. So to confirm I just called for you too. I feel bad because I read your opening spring number wrong and told you it was good.
Anything over 110 closed and 315 open they said will be fine. But the guy I spoke too didnt seem to knowledgeable. Now, I cant hear the motor so its your call. But here are the guide line specs for cam pressures.
To get the right pressure you'll need a spring with 350-400 rate. Yours is 270.
Here is a list of Pressure recommendation for a base line.
Anything over 110 closed and 315 open they said will be fine. But the guy I spoke too didnt seem to knowledgeable. Now, I cant hear the motor so its your call. But here are the guide line specs for cam pressures.
To get the right pressure you'll need a spring with 350-400 rate. Yours is 270.
Here is a list of Pressure recommendation for a base line.
Hydraulic Flat Tappet Camshaft: 110 lbs Seat pressure/250-280 lbs open pressure
Solid Flat Tappet Camshaft: 130 lbs Seat Pressure/300-325 lbs open pressure
Hydraulic Roller Camshaft: 130 lbs Seat Pressure/300- 325 lbs open pressure
Solid Roller Camshaft: (Minimum Safe Pressures)
Up to .600˝ valve lift: 200-235 lbs Seat Pressure/600 lbs open pressure
Over .600˝ valve lift: 250-280 lbs Seat pressure /100 lbs pressure for every .100˝ of valve lift
You can pull a valve cover and let her run without the valve cover. Put a piece of heater hose to your ear and the other near the spring. She will make noise.
Or paint a strip of yellow across the sides of the spring and run them. They will rotate due to "walking".
Also, if you run it it will go rich with fuel if you are logging in the upper rpms and will backfire and sputter.
You can pull a valve cover and let her run without the valve cover. Put a piece of heater hose to your ear and the other near the spring. She will make noise.
Or paint a strip of yellow across the sides of the spring and run them. They will rotate due to "walking".
Also, if you run it it will go rich with fuel if you are logging in the upper rpms and will backfire and sputter.
03-14-2013, 04:27 AM
#51
I am at home I have these springs
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/cca-995-16
are too harsh?
I'm lost, what do I mount pushrods then?
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/cca-995-16
are too harsh?
I'm lost, what do I mount pushrods then?
03-14-2013, 05:30 AM
#52
Those are not to harsh. I run those and recommend them. Occasionally the lifter will bleed off if not used for a couple weeks but that is it. And the lifter will come right back up.
They wont fit the heads without machining. The step needs to come in to fit it and the pocket needs to be dropped to get your pressures correct with an installed height that you have.
You can use the hughes 1110 as a drop in spring or machine the heads and use what you have.
They wont fit the heads without machining. The step needs to come in to fit it and the pocket needs to be dropped to get your pressures correct with an installed height that you have.
You can use the hughes 1110 as a drop in spring or machine the heads and use what you have.
03-14-2013, 10:16 AM
#54
PK1 Sorry, but I do not understand,
I can mount these springs 995-16?
my valve spring retainers and valve keepers are good?
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/dcc-4452032
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/dcc-4529218
the pushrods install the original ones or those of comp CRN-36622-16?
I can mount these springs 995-16?
my valve spring retainers and valve keepers are good?
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/dcc-4452032
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/dcc-4529218
the pushrods install the original ones or those of comp CRN-36622-16?
03-14-2013, 11:43 AM
#55
Il 995 funziona, ma non si adatta il passo sulla testa del cilindro.
Quindi è necessario modifiy il passo o utilizzare il hughes 1110 molla che si adatta senza modificaitons.
Utilizzare i blocchi magnum originali e che 1,42 fermo dalle sorgenti Mopar.
Quindi è necessario modifiy il passo o utilizzare il hughes 1110 molla che si adatta senza modificaitons.
Utilizzare i blocchi magnum originali e che 1,42 fermo dalle sorgenti Mopar.
03-14-2013, 12:34 PM
#56
The translation is not very clear ...
there is a spring like on Summit Racing?
Utilizzare i blocchi magnum originali e che 1,42 fermo dalle sorgenti Mopar. ???
I do not understand this sentence
say you want to use the original pushrod?
there is a spring like on Summit Racing?
Utilizzare i blocchi magnum originali e che 1,42 fermo dalle sorgenti Mopar. ???
I do not understand this sentence
say you want to use the original pushrod?
03-14-2013, 01:36 PM
#57
Sorry. That was google translator.
Re use your current retainer ( 1.42OD) and the original magnum keeper.
Use the pushrod that you measured for. Springs do not change anything to do with pushrods.
Re use your current retainer ( 1.42OD) and the original magnum keeper.
Use the pushrod that you measured for. Springs do not change anything to do with pushrods.
03-16-2013, 02:00 PM
#58
i contacted Hughes to order teh spring they told me to put these valve spring retainers
http://www.hughesengines.com/Index/p...z&partid=23197
confirms PK1?
http://www.hughesengines.com/Index/p...z&partid=23197
confirms PK1?
