Dodge 360 rebuilt oil problem
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Mopar Fan
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Dodge 360 rebuilt oil problem
bot a dodge 360 rebuilt with 500+ miles on it - took it apart does have all new parts with 10 over crank/rod brngs : noticed a BIG problem - rod bearings looked pretty warn espec #4 piston (lotza copper showing) Any idea why/what to do to fix this oil problem?
Cam brngs look good - main brngs look good only the Rod bearings esc center brngs/ esp #4
Cam brngs look good - main brngs look good only the Rod bearings esc center brngs/ esp #4
Mopar Fanatic
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What is the oil pressure? Are you aware of the "trick" plugs that must be properly installed in the oil system?
Unless you are running an all out race engine, .002 is fine. Don't you have a factory service manual?
Unless you are running an all out race engine, .002 is fine. Don't you have a factory service manual?
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Mopar Fan
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not aware of the trick plugs but ill look into it - I never overhauled this it was done before I bot it - Im just going thru the eng / getting to know it / ADDING: new rings (pistons are like new Badger B290s) /changing rod brngs/crank brngs (crank was turned .010) /did some oil mods - bot HV oil pump with hi pressure spring / looking @ low end torque cams now trying to get a feel on what to buy! (I want higher low end torque for pushin sno any suggestions? - Im just getting into understanding the cam specs!)
I jUst have 1 head to cleam up/paint - remove glaze off the cylinders - clean it inside out & Ill be ready to put it all together! Only thing left to order is the cam. Everything i need to know I can find online as I go but yes I have a haynes 360 manual (not fond of haynes tho). Did some 283s/327s/340 AMC in the early 70s so im just getting familiar with everything again! CAnt find most of my tools I need
Heres a few questions :
1. On the cam journals/brngs WHY are the brng holes smaller than the cam journal holes? Shall I make them the same size?
2. If I put a RV cam (low end high torque) can i use the new lifters/pushrods that were installed on the last rebuild?
3. Do I need different valve springs with a RV cam?
4. Where do I find the trick plugs? could the last rebuilder not have installed them?
Note: tHe last rebuilder did a **** job - never cleaned up the castings inside (pretty bad) - most cam bearing holes were out of alignment - didnt change the 6 side frost plugs - I ended up with a good bored block/turned crank/new pistons / rebuilt or new heads basically for $300 - iLl have $1200 + into it by the time im done (but ill know what I have
tHanks for ur time - Lar
I jUst have 1 head to cleam up/paint - remove glaze off the cylinders - clean it inside out & Ill be ready to put it all together! Only thing left to order is the cam. Everything i need to know I can find online as I go but yes I have a haynes 360 manual (not fond of haynes tho). Did some 283s/327s/340 AMC in the early 70s so im just getting familiar with everything again! CAnt find most of my tools I need
Heres a few questions :
1. On the cam journals/brngs WHY are the brng holes smaller than the cam journal holes? Shall I make them the same size?
2. If I put a RV cam (low end high torque) can i use the new lifters/pushrods that were installed on the last rebuild?
3. Do I need different valve springs with a RV cam?
4. Where do I find the trick plugs? could the last rebuilder not have installed them?
Note: tHe last rebuilder did a **** job - never cleaned up the castings inside (pretty bad) - most cam bearing holes were out of alignment - didnt change the 6 side frost plugs - I ended up with a good bored block/turned crank/new pistons / rebuilt or new heads basically for $300 - iLl have $1200 + into it by the time im done (but ill know what I have
tHanks for ur time - Lar
Thread Starter
Mopar Fan
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ALL trick plugs are there - 2 frt / 1 dwn distr hole - oil pressure line has 1 (rod stops @ 7 5/5" dwn) - rear block plugs also!
On 1 of the old Mopar Mag articles 1 oil mod to get the timing chain gears a little more oil was to drill a 1/16" hole in the top 2 trick plugs under the cam holder plate & then drill 1/16" holes lined up with the inner holes into the cam holder plate ! Very restricted with 1/16" holes & pressure will squite it out onto both sides of the timing chain! Sounds like a good mod to me!
Another on the same artice he put holes between each lifter casing nubs : on the top of cam web casing where the lifters sit - areas that catch sludge & it keeps oil flowing alot better - he also recommended with a HV pump to drilling oil passages out to cams/mains but then on another different article it said "not" to drill out the "cam" passages (no idea why - with a hV pump & higher pressure spring it should be ok/good for more oil with this mod correct?
On 1 of the old Mopar Mag articles 1 oil mod to get the timing chain gears a little more oil was to drill a 1/16" hole in the top 2 trick plugs under the cam holder plate & then drill 1/16" holes lined up with the inner holes into the cam holder plate ! Very restricted with 1/16" holes & pressure will squite it out onto both sides of the timing chain! Sounds like a good mod to me!
Another on the same artice he put holes between each lifter casing nubs : on the top of cam web casing where the lifters sit - areas that catch sludge & it keeps oil flowing alot better - he also recommended with a HV pump to drilling oil passages out to cams/mains but then on another different article it said "not" to drill out the "cam" passages (no idea why - with a hV pump & higher pressure spring it should be ok/good for more oil with this mod correct?
Last edited by Bigfootedalien; Jun 30, 2015 at 09:04 AM.
Mopar Lover
Joined: Jan 2010
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Do not drill front/any oil galley plugs.
RHS cam plate retainer bolt can be drilled through 1/16" for oiling timing chain. (early LA's were done from the factory).
Do not drill block for lifter valley drains. If anything this area should be plated off above cam and any other holes in casting filled with epoxy to lessen windage oil blowing into lifter valley. This keeps all the windage oil out and directs(promotes) all drainback oil to the front and rear of the engine (off the crankshaft and into the pan base)
Main bearings can have the oil holes lengthened and the block feed drilled larger (Better main bearing and connecting rod oiling).
Cam bearings and feed holes can be enlarged.
Top deck/rocker oiling holes(to deck only), can be enlarged.
Use standard oil pump with high pressure spring unless building a clearanced(0.003+ tolerances) engine. (worth several horsepower)
Bowl grind the oil pump mating flange and rear main bearing cap.
RHS cam plate retainer bolt can be drilled through 1/16" for oiling timing chain. (early LA's were done from the factory).
Do not drill block for lifter valley drains. If anything this area should be plated off above cam and any other holes in casting filled with epoxy to lessen windage oil blowing into lifter valley. This keeps all the windage oil out and directs(promotes) all drainback oil to the front and rear of the engine (off the crankshaft and into the pan base)
Main bearings can have the oil holes lengthened and the block feed drilled larger (Better main bearing and connecting rod oiling).
Cam bearings and feed holes can be enlarged.
Top deck/rocker oiling holes(to deck only), can be enlarged.
Use standard oil pump with high pressure spring unless building a clearanced(0.003+ tolerances) engine. (worth several horsepower)
Bowl grind the oil pump mating flange and rear main bearing cap.
Last edited by Drag Pak; Jun 30, 2015 at 09:49 AM.
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Mopar Fan
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Drag pak : Thanks for this info:
1: OK I drilled the top 2 TRICK plugs 1/16th + the retainer : shall Ijust change the 2 trick plugs with new ones? (I have new 1s if I need them) --
2: I already drilled holes in the top between the lifter nubs + cast cleaned with a carbide tip the large 3 oblong holes already in the center web- what should I do with that ? (I would have thot the more oil on the cam lift journals the better - but I can learn Shall I make a tin plate CAP & bolt it in leaving frt & rear open??
3: The rest is all good & Ill do them all !
4: I already have the HV pump with a new spring shall i just use the new HV pump with the spring it came with or shall I buy a reg pump & insert the HI Pressure spring? WHY wouldnt it be good to have the high volume with the high pressure together?
APRECIATE ur time! Bigfootedalien@fast-air.net lar
1: OK I drilled the top 2 TRICK plugs 1/16th + the retainer : shall Ijust change the 2 trick plugs with new ones? (I have new 1s if I need them) --
2: I already drilled holes in the top between the lifter nubs + cast cleaned with a carbide tip the large 3 oblong holes already in the center web- what should I do with that ? (I would have thot the more oil on the cam lift journals the better - but I can learn
Shall I make a tin plate CAP & bolt it in leaving frt & rear open?? 3: The rest is all good & Ill do them all !
4: I already have the HV pump with a new spring shall i just use the new HV pump with the spring it came with or shall I buy a reg pump & insert the HI Pressure spring? WHY wouldnt it be good to have the high volume with the high pressure together?
APRECIATE ur time! Bigfootedalien@fast-air.net lar
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Mopar Fan
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Bigfootedalien@fast-air.net I can add pictures if U want!
Last edited by Bigfootedalien; Jul 1, 2015 at 01:10 PM.
Mopar Lover
Joined: Jan 2010
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Drag pak : Thanks for this info:
1: OK I drilled the top 2 TRICK plugs 1/16th + the retainer : shall Ijust change the 2 trick plugs with new ones? YES(I have new 1s if I need them) --
2: I already drilled holes in the top between the lifter nubs + cast cleaned with a carbide tip the large 3 oblong holes already in the center web- what should I do with that ?
FILL the holes between the lifters WITH TWO PART(Marine grade/spar) EPOXY (The stuff used for cylinder head port filling)
(I would have thot the more oil on the cam lift journals the better - but I can learn
CAM lobes GET OIL FROM CRANKSHAFT WINDAGE
Shall I make a tin plate CAP & bolt it in leaving frt & rear open??
A)I wish I had a photo It takes a 2"+/- piece of 1/8" thick aluminum flat bar, down the centerline full length front to rear covering the oblong holes that you see the cam through. It requires a small semi circle notch at the very rear to clear the cast in block pedestal that supports the distributor mounting area
B) This plate requires drilling and tapping 1/4" NCT holes into the cam bearing bosses to fasten the plate to the block. You need to check the bolt length as not to have interference with the cam bearings. I wire lock these bolts in!
3: The rest is all good & Ill do them all !
4: I already have the HV pump with a new spring shall i just use the new HV pump with the spring it came with or shall I buy a reg pump & insert the HI Pressure spring? (IF YOU WISH)
WHY wouldnt it be good to have the high volume with the high pressure together?
A)It will just rob some hp and dump the relief valve on a non clearanced engine
B) Will not fit a stock oilpan without sledge-o- matic.
C) Will overload and twist stock oilpump drive at hex.
D) And a factory windage tray is an absolute must!
APRECIATE ur time! Bigfootedalien@fast-air.net lar
1: OK I drilled the top 2 TRICK plugs 1/16th + the retainer : shall Ijust change the 2 trick plugs with new ones? YES(I have new 1s if I need them) --
2: I already drilled holes in the top between the lifter nubs + cast cleaned with a carbide tip the large 3 oblong holes already in the center web- what should I do with that ?
FILL the holes between the lifters WITH TWO PART(Marine grade/spar) EPOXY (The stuff used for cylinder head port filling)
(I would have thot the more oil on the cam lift journals the better - but I can learn
CAM lobes GET OIL FROM CRANKSHAFT WINDAGE
Shall I make a tin plate CAP & bolt it in leaving frt & rear open??
A)I wish I had a photo It takes a 2"+/- piece of 1/8" thick aluminum flat bar, down the centerline full length front to rear covering the oblong holes that you see the cam through. It requires a small semi circle notch at the very rear to clear the cast in block pedestal that supports the distributor mounting area
B) This plate requires drilling and tapping 1/4" NCT holes into the cam bearing bosses to fasten the plate to the block. You need to check the bolt length as not to have interference with the cam bearings. I wire lock these bolts in!
3: The rest is all good & Ill do them all !
4: I already have the HV pump with a new spring shall i just use the new HV pump with the spring it came with or shall I buy a reg pump & insert the HI Pressure spring? (IF YOU WISH)
WHY wouldnt it be good to have the high volume with the high pressure together?
A)It will just rob some hp and dump the relief valve on a non clearanced engine
B) Will not fit a stock oilpan without sledge-o- matic.
C) Will overload and twist stock oilpump drive at hex.
D) And a factory windage tray is an absolute must!
APRECIATE ur time! Bigfootedalien@fast-air.net lar
Last edited by Drag Pak; Jul 1, 2015 at 04:45 PM.
Mopar Lover
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 11,036
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From: Monrovia SO-CAL (USA)
Back to the beginning...... Make sure the crank is straight And not binding in the sattles with the mains tight..Should spin nice and smooth.. Really clean all the oil passages... The mopars has good oiling if your not going to be twisting it up in the rpm to high... I like the H.V. oil pumps... I like my oil pressure around 70-80 psi off idle...But thats just me.... Stuff the VooDoo low torq cam and springs in that unit. And you should be off the pushing snow.... Badgers like to rattle a little till the get some heat in them, so dont be to alarmed if you hear them talk a little....
Get some pictures up. Just my 2 cents.....
Get some pictures up. Just my 2 cents.....
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Mopar Fan
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Thanks : I ordered a Melling MTD1 with VS1120 springs (tryed to find out specs on the stock springs but couldnt find them anywhere) : The lifters/pushrods are new (500+ miles) in the engine theres no dishing on the oem lifters they should be good for this cam correct? Any other suggestions on installing this? dRagPak Im suding ur post - tryed to put pictures on but it has to go thru server - no idea how to inset them in the post juts from my pc files is there a way?
SPECIFICATIONS
Qty 1
Basic Operating RPM Range 1200-4700 RPM
Cam Performance Class Class I
Cam Type Hydraulic
Computer Controlled Compatible No
Ext (.006/Rocker Arm Ration) Cam Lift Closes 33 ATC
Ext (.006/Rocker Arm Ration) Cam Lift Duration 288
Ext (.006/Rocker Arm Ration) Cam Lift Opens 75 BBC
Ext Camlift .295
Ext Center Line C/L 116
Ext Gross Valve Lift .443
Ext Rocker Arm Ratio 1.5
Ext Specs@.050 Cam Lift Closes -9 ATC
Ext Specs@.050 Cam Lift Duration 214
Ext Specs@.050 Cam Lift Opens 43 BBC
Ext Valve Lash Clearance HYD.
Grade Type Torque Cam
Idle Good
Int (.006/Rocker Arm Ration) Cam Lift Closes 72 ABC
Int (.006/Rocker Arm Ration) Cam Lift Duration 278
Int (.006/Rocker Arm Ration) Cam Lift Opens 26 BTC
Int Camlift .280
Int Center Line C/L 108
Int Gross Valve Lift .421
Int Rocker Arm Ratio 1.5
Int Specs@.050 Cam Lift Closes 30 ABC
Int Specs@.050 Cam Lift Duration 204
Int Specs@.050 Cam Lift Opens -6 BTC
Int Valve Lash Clearance HYD.
Lifter Type Hydraulic
Notes CLASS I; HYD. NOT CALIFORNIA COMPLIANT; NOT COMPUTER COMPATIBLE; EXC. ROL
SPECIFICATIONS
MELLING CAMSHAFT Part No. MTD-1
Qty 1
Basic Operating RPM Range 1200-4700 RPM
Cam Performance Class Class I
Cam Type Hydraulic
Computer Controlled Compatible No
Ext (.006/Rocker Arm Ration) Cam Lift Closes 33 ATC
Ext (.006/Rocker Arm Ration) Cam Lift Duration 288
Ext (.006/Rocker Arm Ration) Cam Lift Opens 75 BBC
Ext Camlift .295
Ext Center Line C/L 116
Ext Gross Valve Lift .443
Ext Rocker Arm Ratio 1.5
Ext Specs@.050 Cam Lift Closes -9 ATC
Ext Specs@.050 Cam Lift Duration 214
Ext Specs@.050 Cam Lift Opens 43 BBC
Ext Valve Lash Clearance HYD.
Grade Type Torque Cam
Idle Good
Int (.006/Rocker Arm Ration) Cam Lift Closes 72 ABC
Int (.006/Rocker Arm Ration) Cam Lift Duration 278
Int (.006/Rocker Arm Ration) Cam Lift Opens 26 BTC
Int Camlift .280
Int Center Line C/L 108
Int Gross Valve Lift .421
Int Rocker Arm Ratio 1.5
Int Specs@.050 Cam Lift Closes 30 ABC
Int Specs@.050 Cam Lift Duration 204
Int Specs@.050 Cam Lift Opens -6 BTC
Int Valve Lash Clearance HYD.
Lifter Type Hydraulic
Notes CLASS I; HYD. NOT CALIFORNIA COMPLIANT; NOT COMPUTER COMPATIBLE; EXC. ROL
Mopar Lover
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While some lifters tend to bleed down more than others (especially the ones with an oiling hole in the pushrod cup). I have found this not to be the case with Mopar lifters.
Then again, you may wish to get your lifters from the cam manufacturer.
Then again, you may wish to get your lifters from the cam manufacturer.
to go MOPAR !!!!!
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