have 318 in 74 satt. i changed the timing a small ammount, not much at all... it does have a mild cam and rollor rockers in it, would that make the whole engine get so hot you cant touch it? i mean this will burn you its so hot, nothing else has changed other then a new edlebrock 600 cfm carb from summit racing.. I did drain all water and antifrezze out and put new in, more antifrezze then it really calls for. i cant think of anything else, did run right before and it seems to have a slight knock,ticking in it that sounds like its under intake, was told it had solid lifters in it also, this is why i turned timing some to see if that would go away but so hot i had to shut down. im not much of a mechanic. thanks

 

Boy, I don' know. Too many generalities, not enough info

First, define "hot." You can't put your hand on a warmed up engine if it's only 'normal' at 190-195 operating temp

Second, antifreeze does NOT help heat transfer/ cooling, so how much "too much" did you put in? The standard mix for most areas IF YOU NEED freeze protection is 50-50. If you live in a warm climate you can use less

You may have an air lock--not good. If you run a heater in the car, check that it is working. If not, you have an air lock. Unhook one heater hose when the engine is cold. You want to unhook the fitting closest to the bottom of the thermostat, make sure you have coolant there, if not fill till you do, then hook up and warm up until the heater works. (Feel both hoses, are they hot?)

Third, you need to get a temp gauge or at least a good thermometer and check the operating temp. You can buy decent test digi thermometers --look like a meat thermometer, with a spike-- and tape it to the lower quarter of the upper rad hose. Just lay it alongside the hose at a slight angle so you can read it. Tape it securely so it's "under" as opposed to on the top side of the hose, nice and tight. Then fold up a rag, or pester a heating outfit for some scrap of foam insulation. Tape that on top of the thermometer to insulate it.

Timing. If you retarded the timing, the engine will heat. Generally, if you moved the distributor and the idle speed DECREASED, you retarded the timing. Retard for a small block is clockwise at the distributor.

 

Great Advice 440, I'd go with air locked first. Kevin let it cool off and then start it up and run for a while with the Rad cap not on tight. You know just till the first notch. And turn your heater on full blast. Let it warm up at idle. Won't take you long to find out one way or the other.
Good luck.

 

Water transfers heat better than the coolant does. The coolant is there just to keep the fluid from freezing in cold weather and to help lube the water pump.

Does sound like you may have an air bubble in the system. What is your temp gauge reading when it is hot?

 

Should have no more than a 50/50 mix of antifreeze. Check your timing and check the plugs ? It could be running very lean making it hot.The probability of an air bubble is very remote !!!
GET THE TIMING SET FIRST

 

Thanks guys, ill check these things out, antifrezze is about 60 % I havent got to my heater problem yet so ill need to check this I don't seem to have any juice to the one side of the fuse box and the heater motor isint working at this time, as far as touching the engine yes they do get hot, but they dont get this hot, i didnt notice this when i first started engine and happened to grab a plug i had on the intake to check spark earlier and dropped it, i couldn't hold on to it. for an example if you tried to hold your hand on this engine it would blister in a hurry. now im concerned with all that could happen, it didnt run long at all but she was hot. i got this car the way it is, i don't know how many gremlins awaits me, they don't have any temperture set up on it, the one on dash did work, and read correctly, only thing i did was timing and very slightly, i just wasent paying attention (temperture) as i just wanted to make sure it would run again. Im waiting now for a throttle cable as the end is broken on the old one and for some reason i have to pump the crap out of it for it to start. never had to before, one revolution it was running and idling. cant thank you enough for your time, and ill be back with what i find, youve all been a help, i didnt realize an air lock could do it, if it is, i can work on them but im no expert. thanks again.

 

Carb can be too lean also....this will make it light up the headers or turn the exhaust manifolds into glow plugs..most likely an air pocket in the block...I 99% of the time fill from the water neck opening on the intake manifold without the t-stat..this 99% of the time elimates air pockets especially when you run with the heater on.

 

Can anyone tell me how to set this carb, just to get me in the ball bark, its a 600cfm Edlebrock, replaced a old Carter, they even closely resemble each other but if i remember correctly Eddy bought Carter out? anyway just to get me in a ball park with the carb so i can check it, im told they are not preset when new..And this i just put on.
It has the Manuel choke, bit cheaper and not driven in winter. It always started very quick and is not now though..

 

A way to eliminate those air pockets is to simply use an overflow can. If the line from the radiator to the can is filled with coolant (AT ALL TIMES), air can't get in. As the engine cools(contracts) it'll suck coolant back in and purge itself of air.

 

At idle they are all the same...idle mixture screw.....and vacuum guage.....turn one 1/4 turn in and then the other...if the vacuum guage shows less vacuum turn it back out...till you acheive the highest vacuum level....in is lean and out is rich

 

Still have some fine tuning to do with carb and timing but i believe problem is over. Starting rather hard but old carb had a electric choke and new one has manual but i have things for the most part coming around. Id like to thank you all very much for all the help you've givin me. take care enjoy your ride this summer, Im going to try myself.. Thanks....

 

Great I hope we all helped you a little...that's what these sites are about...I still don't know everything and ain't afraid to ask...take care and enjoy your ride..

 

Glad to hear you are on track.
Just wondering, what was making it hot? Do you have the manual choke set up and working? This will improve cold starts. Even in hot weather it could need to be choked a little.

 

Yes I would like to know what the fix was as well. In another thread I just replaced my carb with a new Edelbrock and instantly noticed a change in the engine temp, a lot hotter!!!.

No garage and the darn rain is keeping me at bay, but we will be exploring the "to lean" scenario as soon as the rain stops..... next week from what I hear

Joe.