Hughes big block girdle kit
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From: Buckingham, U.K.
Hughes big block girdle kit
Is one of these a good idea on a big block with a 493ci stroker kit installed, or total overkill on a street-only car? The block is off to the machine shop anyway so I guess now is the time to decide whether to fit one or not. It struck me that it might be good long term insurance.
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From: Buckingham, U.K.
Hey guys,
Well, I went ahead and bought the Hughes girdle kit but having presented it, along with my block, to my engine builder he is quite reluctant to use it.
To give a bit of background, he has measured the mains fitted with the supplied Hughes / ARP studs and tells me no line hone is needed
(I thought one had to hone when switching from bolts to studs, but he implies not, is it simply a case that if bore is concentric then all’s ok?).
Anyway, he showed me the girdle plate laid in place, no fasteners, and it can be wiggled around a fair bit, i.e. the stud holes are in no way an interference fit with the studs themsleves, he also was concerned about the use of shims between the main stud nut and the girdle plate as he thought this might allow the cap to flex but not be able to return to its original position causing more stress (He lost me a bit here, but that was the gist of it I think....).
What do you guys think? I feel a bit reluctant NOT to use it as it was 500 bucks, but this builder has a proven record of building top notch drag and historic racing V8 engines and I’m sure he knows what he’s talking about!
Well, I went ahead and bought the Hughes girdle kit but having presented it, along with my block, to my engine builder he is quite reluctant to use it.
To give a bit of background, he has measured the mains fitted with the supplied Hughes / ARP studs and tells me no line hone is needed
(I thought one had to hone when switching from bolts to studs, but he implies not, is it simply a case that if bore is concentric then all’s ok?).
Anyway, he showed me the girdle plate laid in place, no fasteners, and it can be wiggled around a fair bit, i.e. the stud holes are in no way an interference fit with the studs themsleves, he also was concerned about the use of shims between the main stud nut and the girdle plate as he thought this might allow the cap to flex but not be able to return to its original position causing more stress (He lost me a bit here, but that was the gist of it I think....).
What do you guys think? I feel a bit reluctant NOT to use it as it was 500 bucks, but this builder has a proven record of building top notch drag and historic racing V8 engines and I’m sure he knows what he’s talking about!
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I don't use one on my 500" and it's been run hard, 7200 rpm, with no main problems. Maybe it's luck or the skill of the first engine builder that put his talents to work. Whatever it can't hurt to add a girdle.
One thing I did was to pull it apart after 300 runs or so and do a refresh that Included magnafluxing the block. On the last refresh i went with a smaller cam so it will be done at 6500 for longevity. Still made 645 hp. with iron heads.
One thing I did was to pull it apart after 300 runs or so and do a refresh that Included magnafluxing the block. On the last refresh i went with a smaller cam so it will be done at 6500 for longevity. Still made 645 hp. with iron heads.
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From: Monrovia SO-CAL (USA)
Just kind of sounds like he is not comfortable with installing the Girdle, quit a few engine builders dont like the Mopar girdle fitment.
But I know that if one of my builders said he had an issue with using it. I would need to be educated. Just my 2 cents.
But I know that if one of my builders said he had an issue with using it. I would need to be educated. Just my 2 cents.
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I found the same thing true on my sbf, the man that sold me the parts installed them and cursed every minute of it.
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From: Buckingham, U.K.
Bob,
Do I take that to mean you don’t buy his reason for not fitting it?
As I understood him, his point was that as the holes on the girdle for the studs allowed significant play, and when fitted would have lubricated shims between it and the main cap stud, this may allow the studs/caps to flex in one direction but be unable to return to their original postion due to the clamping force of the second nut holding the girdle to the stud. Does that sound like a valid argument?
Do I take that to mean you don’t buy his reason for not fitting it?
As I understood him, his point was that as the holes on the girdle for the studs allowed significant play, and when fitted would have lubricated shims between it and the main cap stud, this may allow the studs/caps to flex in one direction but be unable to return to their original postion due to the clamping force of the second nut holding the girdle to the stud. Does that sound like a valid argument?
Mopar Lover
Joined: Jun 2013
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From: Monrovia SO-CAL (USA)
I would say yes..
The point of the girdle is to remove deflection... All casting and machine work are in a general location per say.. So to get a one-size-fits-all you have to loosen up the tolerance. At that point you ether except the challenge to tighten the tolerance, or choose not to use it or go with another product.... But to simply say if you use this your going to get main cap walk. That's a different issue in my opinion. If that's what your saying.
The point of the girdle is to remove deflection... All casting and machine work are in a general location per say.. So to get a one-size-fits-all you have to loosen up the tolerance. At that point you ether except the challenge to tighten the tolerance, or choose not to use it or go with another product.... But to simply say if you use this your going to get main cap walk. That's a different issue in my opinion. If that's what your saying.
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