Work done so far: New oil, coolant flush, tranny flush, new fuel filter, new air filter, new ignition coil, new spark plugs, new plug wires, tune on the carb, and carb cleaner.

Originally it was running really rough, a bit of back fire, and lost all power on hills or when idling at running temperature.

When we took it for a test drive after the above mentioned work, we had a significant improvement in performance. It was running near perfect for about 10 minutes. Took it for a spin up a few long hills.

However, again, on the third hill, we noticed that it was starting to lose power again and started to get rougher. I thought maybe the fuel filter was plugged again but it looks clean. Note, it is not running near as rough as it was before.

It seems to me that its still a fuel delivery problem as why would it work so well for a solid 10 minutes then decrease in performance? I dont think it would be the fuel pump as we would have noticed that right away. Ideas?

Any help is appreciated!

 

My father in law had a 400 2bbl In a 74? PU. He used to carry an extra carb float in the glove box

 

drop the tank, dump the old fuel and clean it really good inside. replace the fuel filter again, throw 5 gals of premium in it and try that.

 

Welcome. Agree with 78, blow out the fuel line front toward back. If you put a pantyhose over the end when you blow it out it will catch stuff and maybe give you an answer.

 

How would I go about cleaning the fuel tank? Its an RV so thered be two tanks Is it something I can do myself or should I take it to a shop? Id imagine shop charges are going to be in the $1,000 range....?

 

get a transfer pump and empty the tanks into 5 gal buckets or whatever you can put the gas in that is CLEAN. its just two nuts per tank and 2 straps and a couple wires, thats really it. pretty simple stuff.

 

Thx for your help, I really appreciate it. Ill be doing it this weekend and ill take some photos to show progress.

 

Im trying to ID my carb but im having no luck. Nothing anywhere around the air horn.




[/QUOTE]

 

If you clean/flush the fuel tank, don't forget to change the sock. Uhh, that pic looks like a Carter 2v on a 318... where's the 400 c.i. BB ?

 

Ah hell, thats what the previous owner told me it was, its also what I have in terms of an owners manual. Where would I look to ID the block? Sorry for sounding so clueless, kinda new to this.

 

yeah thats definatly a small block.

 

Cast in the block just above the starter about where it meets the cylinder head.
Seven digits then the cubic inches. XXXXXXX.3_ _ .XX
That carb is a Holley 2200 series.

 

Took about 3 hours due to the amount of grime. Popping it on next weekend. Still gotta blow the fuel lines, drop the gas tanks/inspect, and clean the fuel tank selector solenoid.

Taken off.





The Kit



Under the throttle plate after removing the old gasket.



Huge amount of ****/rust/grime in the fuel bowl



Cleaned parts



Clean bowl, big difference



Clean Throttle, installed a new float, all new rubber parts, and fuel needle



Done!

 

cool someone is doin work!!

 

After seeing all the dirt and gunk in the carb, you really need to clean the tanks and all fuel lines. As mentioned before, make sure to put a new sock on both fuel pickups and a new fuel filter. Good luck

 

great job keep the up dates coming

 

Yeah we are blowing the lines next weekend and dropping the tanks for inspection.

Where would I find my EGR and PCV valves? I want to inspect those and clean them/replace as needed. They might be potential problems too based on the amount of crud im finding in other places.

 

The egr valve, if you have one, is on the intake drivers side next to the carb.
PVC is in the valve cover and conects to a tube coming out the bottom of the carb.

Quote(Huge amount of ****/rust/grime in the fuel bowl)

I noticed in your pic's there is a brass coupling hanging on the fuel line right in front of the carb. Might have been a fuel filter there once.
I would definitly replace it with a filter when you put it back in.
That carb was very dirty. Nice to see some one looking for information and then doing the work instead of just throwing money and parts in a hit and miss fasion. You are going to be very happy with yourself, the more you do and the more you learn. Did you find out if it was a 360 or 318?

 

Pictured is a 76 318 with the e.g.r. & PVC locations shown. This egr is capped off, but this is where it should be if you plan to use one. Most folks just cover them, like this one was. The PVC is in the same picture. The next picture shows where the pvc connects to the carb. And the breather you must have in the opposite side from the valve so the system can breath right.