I have the 383 at the machine shop now getting all cleaned up. I want to know what type of numbers i will see with keeping the stock stroke, 11:1 pistons, ported aluminum heads, and a nice beefy cam. Also should I stay with the stock stroke or should I go for a stroker kit? I like the extra cubes but is it reliable with the 496 kit? I have heard from some people that theres no problem with it and some people have said it puts to much stress on the block. I want to build a good amount of horsepower street engine. I would like to have about 500-550 to the crank so I dont loose so much to the wheels.

Thanks for you help!

 

383 stock or stroker ?? Your decision.. What is your budget ???? People often under estimate how much it costs to build a 600 hp motor. I would look for around a 451 CI to end up with a stronger block/ thicker cylinders Pan to carb $$$ 7500

 

My budget is around 5-6k. Is the 451 a stroker kit? or a different block?

 

stupid question but since a 383 stock is already powerful enough to brake good tires loose on dry pavement with a 2 barrel carb let alone a 4 barrel carb why would you want to go overboard?

If you want to run this car on the street with pump gas don't go over 9.2 compression. Personnaly I would just put a stock avs carb, stock 69 4 barrel dual plane intake and the highflow exhaust manifolds on it with the 915 heads rebuilt for the 350 hp it had stock. More if you had the maltess cross (without any other symbols beside it) and it would smoke just about anything people have built on this forum.

 

The 451 is a 440 length crank and a good engine combo. Here is some good reading, When deciding on a stroked engine don't get hung up on cubic inches only, pay attention to rod length and the whole car's package.

http://victorylibrary.com/mopar/rod-tech-c.htm

 

the 451 is a stroker kit . It is extra cost but I would prefer a forged crank. Ok If you use your stock heads an have them cleaned up? you should be able to get well within your budget. Like said DON'T go overboard on the compression. Iron heads 9.5 compression . Build a strong bottom !!!

IF at a later date you want more ? you can go to the Aluminum heads. Then you can go to the smaller chamber heads to get 1/2 point more compression
The 496 in a low deck would require an external oiling system with the pan plumbed for oil lines & swinging pickup, clearance grinding for rod clearance other extras

 

Thanks for the info. I am building an all forged bottom end and a good set of aluminum heads. I just have to decide weather to keep the stock stroke or go for the 451. Ill keep you all posted when I get the block back.

 

To make it a 451, what kind of stroke and rod lenght would I need?

 

I was thinking 400" block, sorry, this should clear it up. (426-438)



http://www.440source.com/strokerkits.htm

 

I think a guy is in pretty tough to do a 451 properly under the 6K mark, but also, depending upon your Geographical location(Regional Economics), it may be possible ?

The KISS method for 500-550hp under 6k,
IMO,
is a pretty basic 440 build using decent pistons, Cam and Eddy Heads.
Heck, even the later smogger cast crank 440 cores can easily be used for this, and yes, with the stock ly rods with ARP Bolts.
I'll put up some Dyno Sheets if you wish ?
.030" over 440's, Eddy's, Cam, Intake, 530's HP and 550's Trq.

 

The KISS method for 500-550hp under 6k,
IMO,
is a pretty basic 440 build using decent pistons, Cam and Eddy Heads.
Heck, even the later smogger cast crank 440 cores can easily be used for this, and yes, with the stock ly rods with ARP Bolts.
I'll put up some Dyno Sheets if you wish ?
.030" over 440's, Eddy's, Cam, Intake, 530's HP and 550's Trq.[/QUOTE]

Please do !!! Also what info would you have on a 1957 or 8 392 hemi build ??? Thanks Bob

 

IMO,
the only hard part on the 392 is the limited Intake Valve size that fits in the Heads, and actually accessing parts.
For Blown applications this is obviously not much of a concern, but Naturally aspirated shooting for 600hp the Valve area can be an area to pay attention ?
That said, yeah, 600hp is doable..and much easier with the early HEMI at 1.5hp per cubic inch than many other Engines.

Before I get too long winded here, have you called these Guys ?
They used to be a GREAT resource for parts, etc for the early HEMI's.
http://www.hothemiheads.com/

 

Deffinetly go with the longest stroke crank you can get for your little 383. also go with a .750 to .800 lift cam and plenty of duration at least 310 t0 315 degrees. also get yourself a good tunnel Ram and and a set of 1250 Holley dominator Carbs. if your going with a 727 trans you will need at least a 8000 rpm stall convertor and good 5:13 to 5:33 gear ratio out back to keep the rpms up on those long hauls to the grocery store.

 

keep ya 383 crank it should be forged anyway . i spent 15k on mine & made some big mistakes & wasted alot of . in the end i went with 75cc closed chamber indy ez heads . there a awesome designed head that can be up graded to max wedge ports later if you want to go with more cubes . ( i'll do that in my stage 2 build ) i have aries dome top pistons & have 10.75:1 compression ( but i need to resleeve all 8 cylinders & grout filled to the bottom of welch plugs ) my recomendations are .
75cc indy ez heads , regrind crank , new rods over race prepping yours 440 rods or chev rods with smaller wrist pin = less wieght & better rod ratio, good windage tray , arp main studs , a stud girdle if you can afford it because these things rev to the moon . grout filling to bottom of welch plugs for more strength , good balance , light wieght forged floating pin pistons drill extra oil hole in top of rod with oil grooves , if you can a soild roller but keep in mind keep a good compression-cam & inlet port cc combernation & inlet manifold & carb to suit . it's way to easy to look @ max hp & rev's but losing all the bottom end & mid range power . that's why the indy ez head is so good for 383 cid . i used the solid mopar purple cam .557/.557 lift cam 296*/296* with 1.6 ratio rockers for .594 lift but keeping the duration down so my compression didn't go out the window . now i'm only running mine to 7000rpm but have been told by probably the best mopar engine builder is australia that my std race prepped rod will go to 8500rpm all day . but to be safe i'm happy with .600" lift & 7000rpm for now with a 3500rpm stall thats very streetable . mines held back by my 750 dp & crappy headers & twin 2 1/2" exhaust & holly street dominator manifold . ( i have pic's in my home page of my build ) as is should be around low 500hp maybe 520ish hp . with better headers & twin 3" xpipe mandrel bend exhaust & 950 carb it should get nearer to mid to high 500 hp. the good engine builder told me last week has has built 383's with max wedge & bowl ported ez heads with solid rollers 1050 cfm carbs & victor inlet manifolds that spin over 10000rpm . but he recommends using a 440 crank for my next build . i hope this helps . just remember if you keep 383 cubes don't do to wild on intake cc - manifold - cam & carb if it's a streeter . for sure you can make heaps of power up top but at a streetable loss . feel free to ask me anything & i'll help out any way i can . dead .

 

440 crank & rod combo with pistons to suit it'll be close to 432 cid but will still rev really well & make great power . this combo will help with maintaing a good compression ratio . low decks are stronger blocks because there shorter & there lighter. grout fill to the bottom of welch plugs for more strength . arp main studs & balance bottom end, windage tray , 1/2" oil pick up on 383 or stroker, now you could now go victor max wedge heads or edlebrock rpm heads but i still like the indy heads with these you can now go 440-1 or ez little easy with max wedge cnc inlet ports & victor inlet or indy max wedge single plane & 950 - 1050 cfm carb & a cam of your choice . maybe .650 lift solid . now i'd say you'd be on your way to 700hp & still be reving to 7500rpm . a note on the 383 / 496cid i know 2 guy's that went this way using 440 source stroker & there stealth heads . there more of a torque stump pulling set up . don't rev real well & don't make the hp they were hoping for . now that was before they offered cnc porting to there heads . from all accounts i've come accross the indy heads are hard to beat . shop around & get as many quotes as you can , i wouldn't go for maximum hp i'd go for the best broard power curve with most power you can afford . just remember you need a tuff driveline that will cop the huge torque & HP your gona want to show off . if you don't trick up your 727 & you brake a uni or axle or driveshaft your gearbox could blow to pieces . i've spent $7500+ on my 8 3/4, drive shaft , & my 727 is in the shop as i type .

 

i was just crunching some numbers & a std 383 build could be done just for about the $6500-$7000 mark. that's if buy'n new bits . & that's with a solid cam & cheap ss bushed roller rockers . good luck i'd say it'll come in abit over $7000 . a stroker more again .