So the rebuild options I have are an OEM rebuild for $1200 or a high-torque rebuild for $1700. Here's what the sales rep told me about their high-torque rebuild:
"Our “High Torque” version would run $1796.00, exchange. Our "High Torque" longblock engine comes with a smooth idle "Torque" type camshaft sometimes known as a "RV" or towing cam. Also we perform other operations to enhance the horsepower such as a three angle performance valve job, other proprietary cylinder head modifications, and raising the compression when necessary. Our "High Torque" engines can produce 10% or more horsepower than the original engine. No changes have to be made to the vehicle and there is no change in the warranty. These engines are fuel injection and computer compatible. These Long Blocks and Short Blocks are listed on our website along with our OEM Long Blocks."
The company's website is www.cmengines.com Both rebuilds come with a standard 12-month warranty which can be extended for an extra charge. It goes without saying that if I had the facilities I'd be rebuilding the engine myself but I don't have that option. OK guys, what do you think? Is the high-torque worth the extra they are asking?

 

Well, first thing... what motor?

And... if you're wanting horse power, I wouldn't go with a torque cam...

Raising compression and doing porting and head work then using a torque cam kind of defeats the purpose.

 

Oops, forgot to input the engine size. It's a 318 c.i. from my 1989 W-150. It's got the roller-cam and TBI Fuel injection.

 

I don't know crap about them. You will need the roller cam long block one. I would start with the BBB and check them out. See if they have any complaints filled against them.

 

They have been around a while.. But do your homework for sure. 1200 bucks for a properly machined block with rebuilt heads and good internals is a good price IMO.

500 for ten percent bump? Your call.. The long block will be the same. They are probably using a reground cam (which is fine) to change the duration and lift a little for their rv cam.

Keep in mind your TB isn't self learning ( well not totally) so be careful changing the parameter of what you can feed. 10 percent you are fine. Crank, idle, partial throttle fuel / timing tables all use feed back from sensors..so they can adjust within reason. Your WOT table is permanent file so you can only put so much fuel in the engine.

 

Sounds like just a mark up for no reason. They need to replace the pistons and the cam anyway. So I don't see $600
OR torque plate bore & hone, Balancing ?? that could be the difference But there is no mention

 

According to the website, balancing is included too. As it was described to me they will bore the cylinders only enough to true them up and install new pistons, etc.

 

I think you should ask for the specs of the cam used in the "high torque" build. You can plug it into Comp Cams(I think its them - maybe its Crane) and see just how much you can expect to see. Ask them for a graph from an engine dyno of a 318 that is simular to yours that they have rebuilt using that cam and compair the two.

Also ask if they break the motor in.

I would assume that since you have been running this motor, the cylinders probably only need to be honed and not bored.

With how your truck is sitting, HP gains are nice, but what you really want to see is an increase in the overall torque.

 

c -

In the real world $600 for a 10% increase in HP is quite reasonable, but... I'd like a little more info before I dropped the extra money.

Things like how does the RPM power band change? (Torque engines typically have lower power bands.) Is that something you want?

Exactly how do the cam specs change?

Kinda think that a 3 angle valve job was standard these days.

What kind of proprietary porting are they talking about?

You might get 10% more HP, by changing the intake, carb and exhaust yourself.

Does the "high torque" option limit what you can do later if you want more RPM? (Highly unlikely, but ask.)

Sounds like these guy do this all the time, so it's most likely a cookie cutter operation. As long as you know exactly what you're getting, then it might be worth it.

BTW - did you mention the engine and ultimate use you were talking about?

Archer

 

Thanks for the input guys, the mor I think of it the more I think I will likely go with just the standard rebuild. The engine has 211,000 miles on it so I think it's a safe bet that mere honing isn't going to be enough. I'm not looking to do any heavy work with this old truck other than occasionally pull a small trailer or maybe carry a load of firewood. Whatever it will be, it won't be outside the truck's stock limits.
I've also been asking around town here and have gotten the names of a few shops that will do the machine work on my engine but I will have to do the assembly. A good friend of mine is very good with the little performance tweaks that I can do now with the engine out so I'm considering that route as well. If I do decide to rebuild it myself, what are your suggestions?

 

Suggestions..

Its a roller correct? Head to the bone yard while your truck is still running: Have them load u a low mileage 318 roller long block.. There are many. Tell them to leave the starter on. Get a compression tester, make some leads to that starter and get some numbers.

Most bone yard give a warranty. If it checks poor, take it back. If its good, get the manual, bearing kit, gaskets, TC,

You heads are fine as it is running and you have no issues correct?

Put it together and go..

You gotta walk before you run... If you get stuck, post.. there is a good knowledge base here with zero attitude..