Just installed this to eliminate points in my 68 Chrysler Newport, installed exactly the way it was supposed to be, I ran the red to positive black to negative, I tried starting turned over ran rough shut off, put the original stuff back in the distributor now I can't start it and keep it running normal shuts off right away, I hope I didn't destroy my motor it ran fine yesterday until I took the points out and put the kit in. Please any help would be appreciated.

 

What part number Kit did you put in...
Put the pertronix back in.... Leave the 12 Volt wire off from the ignition key.
Use a jumper wire from the battery to the coil +....
Start the car and see if it runs better.....
Yes Or No ????

 

If what I listed to do works.... Then you need to wire the unit as per the #2 way.

http://www.pertronix.com/docs/instru...ets/91144A.pdf

Hope this helps..

 

I got the ignitor 2 91381A

 

Bypass ballast resistor needs 12 volts

 

Exactly !!!!!!

 

ok so I hooked the black and red to neg and pos on the coil. there is a little canister looking thing hooked up to the pos side of the coil that hooks around an intake bolt that I didn't remove. I couldnt trace any wires from the coil that go to the ballast resistor by the firewall. There is one wire that was cut when I bought the car it is the cold wire the light comes on the dash and the car ran like crap when I reconnected it but that'ss is before I ever messed with the kit.

 

The "little canister" is a radio suppression capacitor (condenser) and will not affect "things." Did you bypass the ballast resistor?

 

How do I do that sorry I'm still learning this is the stock distributor but everything is new the cap wires and conversion kit that comes with a rotor. the shaft is good no play.

 

I had a Petronix installed once on my 440. Had a worn out distributor, and I did not want to deal with the points. It burnt out shortly after installation. Since then, I have purchased a dwell meter, which has made life with points much easier, not to mention reliable. The points, while they need attention once every 10 or 20K miles, they will not stp working abruptly. And with the dwell meter, adjustment and replacement is fairly easy.

 

Figure #2 for the by pass....

 

So I can just splice it into the wire that is on the side of the ballast resistor that gets 12 volts before it runs through the resistor. My ballast resistor has 4 places to plug into I have two that are not being used could I just plug it into the right open one.

 

No. You have to BYPASS it. You have TWO voltage sources coming TO the resistor. One is only hot in run, one is only hot in start

With a 4 terminal resistor, refer to this diagram:



Notice that there is a jumper going across the resistor, and that one terminal of the resistor feeds to the old box.

In the diagram the RIGHT SIDE of the resistor is the side that you will be bypassing. Essentially, you need to hook the upper and lower right side terminals together, and hook the original coil wire + to the coil just as it was. In other words BYPASS the resistor. Go to the parts store and buy some male 1/4 "quick connect" and make up a short jumper and just plug it into the two original connectors

 

Ok here is a picture of it installed. the magnets should be lower right. I mean the rotor locks into the cylinder with the magnets and it slides onto shaft fine but the little black square on the actual red unit isn't perfectly even with the magnets on the black cylinder. Could I run the positve wire and splice it with a wire on the starter relay. The pertronix diagram shows the positive being connected to a 12 volt source before it actually gets to the ballast resistor. Also is there suppose to be a ground wire in the distributor I seen some videos of other cars that have a ground wire that stays in the distributor, I have the one from the stock points and condesor that I took out could that be a problem too, man I hope I didn't screw something with the motor up all the work I just did to with the cam and all, it was running great with the stock points just was doggin a little thats why I upgraded should have just bought the summit electronic distributor.

 

Ok now I am lost I tried what the directions said now the car just clicks like the battery is dead but it is not it is fully charged. Yesterday it sounded like it wanted to turn over, the sound is coming from the starter relay.

Here is a video of it

 

Your battery should show 12.5 or 12.6 volts when fully charged, not 12.

Assuming that your battery is good ...

How about the connections to the battery terminal. Do they get hot when you try to crank it? If yes, there is excess resistance from corrosion. Clean up and try again.

It is possible that your starter needs to be replaced. When that happens, usually you hear a single click.

You can try by-passing the ignition switch in the car and short the big wire on the starter relay (the one that is always "hot") with the lower forward wire. From prior experience, this energizes the solenoid on the starter a bit harder, and can get the starter to turn over a few more times before it actually needs to be replaced.

Did you say you were in Australia? Hope you can find a new starter there easily. The car looks fine. Is it a 4 door hardtop? Your interior looks nice too.

 

The starter is brand new hi torque didn't have a problem yesterday, the starter was actually trying to turn the car over yesterday. The battery was only at 50% when I hooked the charger up to it today. I had a problem with starting the car the other day when we adjusted the timing due to the car not cooling down, everything was working good until I put the kit in. After I had a problem yesterday I put the points and condensor back in and it still wouldn't turn ovr, the starter draws a lot over power and I probably drained the battery maybe too much. It was after I spliced that positive wire to the one on the starter relay that it gave me a problem, I am in the US, it is the two door.

 

So, did the starter turn over the engine even a few degrees? If it did, its probably good.

It is possible that if your timing is over advanced, the combustion can be too early and fights the starter. Just pull the central high tension wire from the distributor to temporarily disable the ignition, and try to crank the engine again. If the engine turns over at a healthy speed with ignition off, then that may be your problem. If that is the case, reconnect the wire and retard the timing some, and the engine might start.

You said you re-installed the points. Are you sure you have reasonable dwell? Without a dwell meter, the easiest way to install points without a dwell meter is to remove the distributor from the car all together, and adjust the gap to the 0.018-0.016, or whatever it is supposed to be. Then, make sure you reinstall the distributor in the same rotor orientation. Your timing adjustment will be lost, of course.

How do the battery terminals feel when you try to turn over the engine? Do they get hot? What is the battery voltage? Should be 12.6 for a fully charged battery.

 

Yesterday the starter did crank and the motor was trying to start I didget it to run at one point for a few seconds than shut off. Really rough running though.

 

Looks to me like you have a clearance problem. There should be a small air gap, between the relucktor and the Pick up...

Your Starting/Cranking is a whole different problem.... Not related to your no start.

 

Maybe I burnt the starter out, or the relay, the relay clicks, it's only a year old but the way parts are made now who knows.

 

You need to get it back to cranking....
Check all the connections
Check the grounds
Perform a battery Load test to see if the battery is any good.

 

I'm taking the battery to get tested today i checked the coil its getting power the starter relay has some power going through it the ballast resistor couldn't get a reading the battery terminals weren't warm when I try to crank it. I guess I should check the starter gear to see if there is damage to the gear or torque converter I hope not but no harm in checking.

 

No...You do not have enough voltage to the starter is all....
Battery might have enough volts, but has lost is cranking amps.
You could test the starter. If it draws more than 140amps to turn it. The starter is having an issue...

 

By the way... Just food for thought... Those Blue wire Scotch locks... Cause a Chit loads of problems when you use them.... I my opinion, those are only good to get you car home with.

 

I will check and get rid of the blue splicer. The original wiring diagram shows the neutral saftey switch wire going into the stater relay.

 

That is true..... It provides the ground.. If I recall...

 

okay I figured out the problem of why it wasn't even cracking the terminals they go on the wires for the battery and the hook up the wires were coated with red and black I slept on 2 new terminals with no coding and it started crackingit goes to turn over now but doesnt stay on it just coughs and shuts off Iranthe positive wire straight to the positive side of the battery and that's when it seems like it want it to turn over right awayI checked be clearance between the circle piece and the actual moduleand it is now correct maybe I am missing somethingI might mark the distributor where it is now and on both it and turn it to see if that works

 

I agree.... Pull the #1 spark plug.... Turn the engine till you feel compression. Set the balancer on 10* BTDC. Make sure the rotor is pointing to The number 1 spark plug wire. (If not realign Dist).. Put the cap on and reinstall the spark plug and fire away....

 

okay I got the balancer to top dead centerI turn the distributor clockwise just a hair after marking where it originally was and it started right upI checked it with the timing gun and it said it was around 10 to 11 degrees before top dead center I am Not sure if it is running okay so I shut it off quickly to prevent any kind of damage to the motor