rocker arm questions
#1
rocker arm questions
ok so i hate to do this but this is a question about a chevy motor.
my dads a big chevy guy and we just put his 327 together.
1st off. while using the priming tool, the whole driver sider of the motor got oil up top, through the pushrods and such. the passenger side did not,
any ideas why?
secondly. ive read a lot on how to adjust his roller rockers.
doing it exactly as the instructions say, theyre all ok but while turning the crank some of them get wayy too loose on the pushrod. for example the exhaust on cylinder 8 loosens up during rotation but gets tight while on its compression stroke, even though theyre all lashed to the right clearance.
i was thinking the lifters werent filled yet? but theyre solid lifters/cam.
any ideas?
i understand if no one replies or it gets deleted. haha.
my dads a big chevy guy and we just put his 327 together.
1st off. while using the priming tool, the whole driver sider of the motor got oil up top, through the pushrods and such. the passenger side did not,
any ideas why?
secondly. ive read a lot on how to adjust his roller rockers.
doing it exactly as the instructions say, theyre all ok but while turning the crank some of them get wayy too loose on the pushrod. for example the exhaust on cylinder 8 loosens up during rotation but gets tight while on its compression stroke, even though theyre all lashed to the right clearance.
i was thinking the lifters werent filled yet? but theyre solid lifters/cam.
any ideas?
i understand if no one replies or it gets deleted. haha.
#3
Second, they may not be "lashed right." Best way I know of to set lash is the "EOIC" method, which insures that even if you have a big, long duration cam, the lash will be set on the backside of the cam
I do this right "down the row" first the left head and next the right head, but you can do this in fireing order or anyway you want.
You can do all the exhaust first, or do each cylinder, just pick a method so you don't make mistakes or skip one
So the method is,
"EXHAUST" starts to OPEN, adjust the intake
"INTAKE is almost CLOSED, adjust the exhaust
What this means is, you bump the engine on the cylinder you want to adjust, and when the EXHAUST just barely starts to open, you adjust the intake for that cylinder
Next you bump until the INTAKE on that cylinder goes open and IS ALMOST CLOSED and then you adjust the exhaust for that cylinder
So far as oiling, the rockers are oiled through the pushrods, unlike a Mopar that is oiled through passages to the heads. So turning the engine should not make a difference
If you are sure that you primed it long enough to get oil distributed, then you may have a rear cam bearing problem, or a plugged gallery. (This is not an old 265, is it?)
THIS THREAD discusses the old 265 problem,:
http://www.chevytalk.org/fusionbb/sh...hp?tid/242923/
but this picture from the thread shows how late blocks interconnect the main/ lifter gallery. This is a picture of the rear cam bearing socket:
So there could be crud back there plugging off the one side
Here's some better photos of how this works:
(which came from this page
http://www.digitalcorvettes.com/foru...ad.php?t=85963
Referring to the first picture I posted as well as the two below, the oil comes up the vertical galley which goes clear up and feeds the oil sender, and crosses down the diagonal galley to the rear cam bearing cavity. this is where it "all" happens. the oil goes into the cavity in the first picture, in the groove around the outside of the rear cam bearing. Obviously the hole in the bearing also feeds the rear cam journal. the outside groove distributes the oil to the main and the two lifter galleys. If any of this is plugged or crudded up, no oil will get to the affected area
Last edited by 440roadrunner; 06-20-2011 at 09:39 AM.
#4
I'm late again, but this may help someone who reads this. I was fighting a lash problem on a small Chevy once. I'd set the lash and after some running a few would loosen up. The rocker studs are pressed into the head, and a few were pulling out! Solution...screw in studs.
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