I have a 1966 Fury III with a poly 318 and it is making a whole bunch of ticking under the valve covers. What could this be?

 

Low oil, restriction in oiling system, low oil pressure...

 

arbiter -

Assuming there's enough oil and it's getting where it's supposed to...

Make sure it's the valves. More likely the lifters and even a small exhaust leak can give a similar sound.

Don't think the valves are adjustable on the poly, they are not on the later 318s (unless you have aftermarket rockers).

You can pull a valve cover and check for rocker play and oil flow.

Archer

 

Get you an oil presser tester from Harbor Freight. Screw it into the back of the block and see what kind of oil pressure you have at cold idle and hot idle.

 

The valves on that engine should be mechanical (solid), not hydraulic....................

 

Seems 440 is right. This one is noisy too.

 

IF its just a 'ticking' noise, I would say run the valves, If they are a solid lifter engine (which I DID NOT google or research) the noise will never go completely away, BUT it will be somewhat quieter, which IS normal for a solid lifter motor... Get the FSM and see what the factory specs are be and set them accordingly... (This is assuming you have made sure it has oil pressure as stated above)...

 

Arbitor, you have a shop manual?

You can download a 66 Ply factory manual for free over at "MyMopar:"

http://www.mymopar.com/downloads/ser...ice_Manual.zip

which came from here:

http://www.mymopar.com/index.php?pid=31

I don't remember for sure, I think valve lash is .013" intake, .021" exhaust. That's thousanths of inches, not mm and HOT, not cold. I don't like to set an engine running, and there can be a huge argument about this. I usually use the feeler for the amount of lash specified, and one which is about .002" larger. You want to be able to insert and slide the specified feeler with almost NO effort, but not insert the oversize at all, or at least not force it.

I use the EOIC method, which means this:

You can either go "in firing order" or from front to back down one head at a time, but it's less confusing just to go straight down one head

So...........bump the engine until................

The EXHAUST just starts to OPEN, and set the intake on that cylinder

Then bump the engine until that INTAKE opens and is nearly CLOSED

and set the exhaust for that cylinder

Alternatively, there's this handy chart:

You'll have to measure around your balancer with a tape, and mark it at 180* and 90*

Then just follow the chart, IE at TDC, adjust the intake on #2 and the exhaust on #8

Use a wrench, rotate the crank to the first 90* mark, and set intake on #1 and exhaust on #4 and so on...........................