76 W100 727 problem.
#1
76 W100 727 problem.
I have a bad tranny leak, tranny fluid all over under the truck, dripping from bell housing. I was told it might be the front pump seal, so I pulled the motor and replaced the seal. I also replaced all the freeze plugs and valve guide seals. I put the motor back in and took it for a drive and it is still leaking from the bell housing. Im not sure what to do next, I looked at the torque converter and I didn't see any cracks, there was no grove in the shaft. Also the dip stick tube is not leaking, any ideas?
#3
It is possible for the pump housing seal/ O-ring to fail the heat will dry out the O-ring and it will shrink
how does the trany run, no problems shifting when cold?
it's also possible for the weld on the yoke to develop a small crack rare but possible
did you pay attention to a leak trail when changing the seal sometimes it s a clean path where the oil has been traveling
some suggestions.
how does the trany run, no problems shifting when cold?
it's also possible for the weld on the yoke to develop a small crack rare but possible
did you pay attention to a leak trail when changing the seal sometimes it s a clean path where the oil has been traveling
some suggestions.
#5
It is possible for the pump housing seal/ O-ring to fail the heat will dry out the O-ring and it will shrink
how does the trany run, no problems shifting when cold?
it's also possible for the weld on the yoke to develop a small crack rare but possible
did you pay attention to a leak trail when changing the seal sometimes it s a clean path where the oil has been traveling
some suggestions.
how does the trany run, no problems shifting when cold?
it's also possible for the weld on the yoke to develop a small crack rare but possible
did you pay attention to a leak trail when changing the seal sometimes it s a clean path where the oil has been traveling
some suggestions.
#6
sounds exactly like a hairline crack in the torgue converter pump drive tube. Look for a hairline almost invisible crack from the tooth towards the torgue converter. It could be the weld as well but more likely the shaft. It happens when people slam the transmission into gear when its cold and the engine is still on fast idle.
#7
sounds exactly like a hairline crack in the torgue converter pump drive tube. Look for a hairline almost invisible crack from the tooth towards the torgue converter. It could be the weld as well but more likely the shaft. It happens when people slam the transmission into gear when its cold and the engine is still on fast idle.
#9
There are some lock up 727 trannies but based on the year of the truck, I'd say its non-lockup (I could be wrong tho). It's best to check before buying it.
#10
I found a guy that has 2 torque converters for sale for $75.00, one is a 10 3/4 inch and the other is a 11 inch. I don't know what I have in my truck, its in the truck so I cant measure it. He says both will fit, witch one would be better? Will one lower my rpms?
#11
i Would not mix lock up and none lock up converters there are some differences at the end of the input shaft and inside the torque converter. See pics.
Don't you have a local transmission parts house? i would buy a rebuilt factory converter from a parts house and i would have the choice of 1200-2000 rpm a factory high stall from mopar is a fine converter those engineers knew what they were doing and any higher stall is just not-practical for the street.
Don't you have a local transmission parts house? i would buy a rebuilt factory converter from a parts house and i would have the choice of 1200-2000 rpm a factory high stall from mopar is a fine converter those engineers knew what they were doing and any higher stall is just not-practical for the street.
Last edited by Gorts 5th; 05-04-2013 at 07:13 AM.
#13
i Would not mix lock up and none lock up converters there are some differences at the end of the input shaft and inside the torque converter. See pics.
Don't you have a local transmission parts house? i would buy a rebuilt factory converter from a parts house and i would have the choice of 1200-2000 rpm a factory high stall from mopar is a fine converter those engineers knew what they were doing and any higher stall is just not-practical for the street.
Don't you have a local transmission parts house? i would buy a rebuilt factory converter from a parts house and i would have the choice of 1200-2000 rpm a factory high stall from mopar is a fine converter those engineers knew what they were doing and any higher stall is just not-practical for the street.
#14
That's the thing with mopar torque converters the 1200 stall and the 2000 stall are the same size the only way you could tell in the old days was a little oval sticker on the converter "H S, LS" the last converter i bought 2000 stall w, lock up for my 46 re now in my 86 5th ave the stall is perfect for the street everywhere i go she cruises at 1800 2000
#15
That's the thing with mopar torque converters the 1200 stall and the 2000 stall are the same size the only way you could tell in the old days was a little oval sticker on the converter "H S, LS" the last converter i bought 2000 stall w, lock up for my 46 re now in my 86 5th ave the stall is perfect for the street everywhere i go she cruises at 1800 2000
#16
if you can find a local re-builder he will have both....
that's how i came to get mine i asked for a 2000 rpm lock up and they sold me one, you got to have a local re-builder re manufacturer wholesaler in your area.
that's how i came to get mine i asked for a 2000 rpm lock up and they sold me one, you got to have a local re-builder re manufacturer wholesaler in your area.
Last edited by Gorts 5th; 05-17-2013 at 07:03 AM.
#21
Ill try to get some pictures, I took the pump out and noticed the bolts for the pump were not very tight. Only 2 of the bolts were tight enough to pop when I was taking them off, what should these bolts be torqued to? The pump seal behind the pump is good, the o ring seal that goes around the pump looks fine.
#22
Ill try to get some pictures, I took the pump out and noticed the bolts for the pump were not very tight. Only 2 of the bolts were tight enough to pop when I was taking them off, what should these bolts be torqued to? The pump seal behind the pump is good, the o ring seal that goes around the pump looks fine.
As for the torque of the bolts, 175 in/lbs. (found doing a Google search but can try to verify tonight in my 727 handbook).
#23
hope they can post
pics of the pump gears and housing will show if the wear is enough to warrant replacement if you go online and search for Automatic transmission service group [ATSG] you can find manuals and videos with specifications
i would be careful re-using the o rings when old the can dry out be come brittle and not reseal pick up a o-ring kit at a local suppler of go to [PACT]
pics of the pump gears and housing will show if the wear is enough to warrant replacement if you go online and search for Automatic transmission service group [ATSG] you can find manuals and videos with specifications
i would be careful re-using the o rings when old the can dry out be come brittle and not reseal pick up a o-ring kit at a local suppler of go to [PACT]
#24
I don't care what the seals look like !!!!!!!!!! REPLACE THEM, gasket O ring and seal Check the front pump bushing it should be staked into position if it is turned ? replace it too....... you can't tell always by looking at them. It is a lot for work to try and save $10
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