Hi, I was talking to my buddy and we've sort of decided to go a 383 some sort of early stroker 397, with a full manual A518 if possible, in a 1986 bitsaremissing Canter. Does anyone know if this can be done , any problems i might face or if theres a better way ?
any help/advice will be awesome

 

what is a 1986 bitsaremissing canter?

 

you should have no problem you will need a mount
i did a swap in a 86 full size van 727 too 518 i used a trany mount from a 2000 full size van with 518 bought it at the dealer parts counter
and check out "http://www.transmissioncenter.net/highperflist.htm"find lots of parts and kits for the trany.

 

The 518 was never made to fit behind a 383. But you could make an equivalent with a stroker 360 small block

 

The a518, a618, 46RH, 46RE, etc all have small block bell housings so they won't bolt up to a 383 big block. Someone may make an adaptor for it but like TVLynn said, you can build an equivalant stroker (even a little bigger) out of a 360 small block.

The 727 is the only auto trans that came behind the BB/RB motors and even then you have to watch out because those trans were also used behind the SB motors.

 

my bad i thought you where stroking a 360
you will need to find a adapter maybe at "PACT"
the bell housings are defiantly different.

 

sorry for the absence eveyone i've been busy building a che........
Ok a bitsaremissing canter is aka mitsubishi
As for the bell housing i was thinking jegs do a bell for this swap.
the biggest concern is will the overdrive planetry set staying together in everyday conditions with the mods i plan to do
being :383 ported heads as best i can do, offy eqaulized single/dual plane manifold ,cam236 242 @50, LPG or i think most of you guys call it propane 46rh/A518 full manual just eliminate shift problems plus i see this an advantage for gear selection towing, but really, i don't know that much about them yet . Has anyone used the RAMzilla kit from PACT or the Viper2 kit ? this maybe a bit of overkill but considering the weight being around 5500 pounds and the fact that it will be towing (in three gears anyway) i want to know if its up to the task?

 

yeah 727 sb and bb different bolt/bell housing like ford c6.
Its a shame they did'nt make a bb version because now i have to cut the bell off when i get one.
The bell from jegs bolts to the pump so looks like no probs there, but..........

 

I have not used the Ramzilla. I find most upgrades just use the HD parts the snow plow guys or tow truck guys use. Makes sense. I had a "built" 518 behind a 500 hp motor and it worked well for every day use.

Area of concern is the fact that the OD case is just a cassette OD at the tail shaft that sits on the back of the 727. Yes, its a different case but internals are the same. The RE is electric OD, the RH is hydraulic controlled.

I cracked the cassette OD once because I was DUMB. Case design is good. I didnt have a loop and had too much rear diff articulation and broke the pumpkin. The stress snapped the upper drivers side cassette OD bolt and cracked the case. It does extend a bit for the small bolts.

Good news: I grabbed a used case ( 50 bucks) . Swapped internals, changed the top plate ( not sure if name is correct) as mine was scratched and put it back together.

Never had any other issues. So I would proceed with your build without worry. For 1/4 mile stuff you wont get near OD so don't worry about that.

 

Make sure the drive shaft is straight and balanced as it will spin faster. I can't tell you how, but there is a way to add an extra clutch to the overdrive.. and modifications to the oiling system that need to be done Talk to a trans expert..

 

Cool, I only listen to the answers i want to hear anyway LOL
No, but seriously it's good to know that most internals are 727 something thats been R&Ded pretty well ,the fact that the od sort of just bolts up says to me perhaps a quick fix or catch up remedy from Chrysler, you can't argue with experience or testament tho. Some guys say, yay others nay. The fact that PACT do a kit for the 46rh says something too. either they want your money or they have it worked out, I like to think they have it worked out, the stuff i've brought from them before is the shizzz and works really well. This dose'nt mean i can't break it tho. So in short on the good advice i think i'll just have to get one.

 

Cool, I only listen to the answers i want to hear anyway LOL
No, but seriously it's good to know that most internals are 727 something thats been R&Ded pretty well ,the fact that the od sort of just bolts up says to me perhaps a quick fix or catch up remedy from Chrysler, you can't argue with experience or testament tho. Some guys say, yay others nay. The fact that PACT do a kit for the 46rh says something too. either they want your money or they have it worked out, I like to think they have it worked out, the stuff i've brought from them before is the shizzz and works really well. This dose'nt mean i can't break it tho. So in short on the good advice i think i'll just have to get one.
Is there any particular one i should look out for?
Or does any one have one for sale , the only problem i have here is i'm in Melbourne Aus but if i can get it to California should'nt be a problem.

 

Is this going to be 2wd or 4wd? Sorry if I missed that part.

Check out http://www.gearvendors.com/d2wd3s.html - Gear Vendors Under/Overdrive. They sell overdrive units for the 727 transmissions. If you are doing 2wd and have the length, this may be a god solution.

 

2WD
This was the first option i'd looked at a while ago for another car,
but i thought to myself why do that when they are building 4l80's to take 1000 hp (not that i would have that much power but just to be safe) and i'll be rebuilding one anyway.
The potential problem i'm concerned about is lubrication of the OD, being that it's a planetary set/cassette that will most likely get the most use, so therefore go blue and destroy the the trans. This advice may however been given to me in pre-empt of abuse. I've been told the gearvendors will do the same, which seems to stand to reason.
My understanding of 1000hp is the power that can be applied not the longevity, this is so often a misconception of most people including myself, whether this is the case in this instance, i don't know.
To build any one given thing strong enough is one thing, just how much money and time is another.
So i'm really just trying to establish the viability of a518, personally i'm pretty sure i'm going that way for curiosity reasons but i hav'nt ruled out the gearvendors either considering they made them for trucks to start with.
It's very good advice tho.

 

i have run a 46 re for years as a retro .. in my work van..360
and now in my 5th ave, 318 518 3.90 the od is excellent for the 3.90
she can handle the power of my 318 i don't suspect any breakage issues from it.
But when you start putting 500+hp/tq into anything...well sooner or later.
PACT has a great selection i've gotten a few things from them, also i have used a local trany supplier for most my parts.

 

Is a stick out of the question?

 

I'm thinking around 400 hp maybe bit of a cam small stall just for effect, things like port heads. i have a offy dual /single plane, the other thing i've been thinking of recently ,is stroking it to 451 so i can turn down the radical of a hot engine and preserve the torque. I heard that you can turn down a 440 crank to fit into a 383 to equate to 451 same rods different pistons I dont know if this is true but it now is floating around my head. Do you guys know how much effort is involved in 400 hp from either engine?
As far as stick is concerned i'd rather not , being stuck in traffic on a daily basis it's kind of annoying. I can get an adapter kit to suit for the already existing gearbox from a guy call Rod Hatfield , He is a dick and i'd rather not deal with him, but if it's cost effective well what do you do. The theory i have is, if the currant motor rev's @3500@ 60/100 on the freeway with an overdrive gearbox, then a 383 with 46 rh, 4th being 0.69/1 this will bring the rev's to maybe 3000, hopefully 2800. Either way a 383 revving @3000 on LPG will be more economical than a 4 cylinder diesel revving @3500 when the red line is 4000 (i think )not sure but thats the theory. As for the 451 revving @3000 i hav'nt thought this one through yet.
Going full manual 46rh would allow me to select gears to suit what where and when i'm towing, without a clutch and getting caught between gears. yay!
this aspect is the most annoying about the currant stick.

 

i'm running a 3.90 gear with the od my 70 mph around 2300 rpm without the lockup i run a semi manual valve body i recommend it from experience, i run it manually most the time but i also have the shift points set for 2k so i can leave it in drive and go, it will also down shift at 2k.
the lu. od. i set up switches and relays work fine for my needs but pact has a kit available.
i run in and out of od allot with my set up its as fast as the other 3.
if you start running allot of tq/hp you can add 2 extra frictions to the od and make it a 48 rh the 8 representing the number of frictions in the od unit.
i would retro this combo into any mopar before a manual 4 sd.
the parts and shift kit i'm using in my 46re are available at pact.

 

Ahhh. "Everyday's a school day" so a 47 rh =1 extra clutch?

 

Gorts 5th, Sorry to bug you on the semi auto, and i think you've mentioned it before but, why semi? it seems to me that semi = more things to go wrong. Just curious on your opinon.

 

no bother ask away always...
i know i may be the wrong choice of words
the kit...
TRANSGO PART: TFOD-HD2 CLASSIFICATION: REPROGRAMMING KIT
FITS: 88-03 4 Speed RH & RE 42-47 Models Except 03-up 48RE
FEATURES: Corrects/Prevents/Reduces: Has new mechanical governor and throttle pressure limit systems for an increased range of tuning options. You will really like how it installs and works. These upgrades produce the best working Torqueflite possible.
Assistance Video
http://transgoonline.com/products.ph...dcountview=Yes

The new manual valve that is with the kit is machined in such a way as shifting is quick smooth and solid i can and do shift manually back and forth all day and no problems ...plus the new governor spring set they give you installs in the valve body ,raising the shift point rpm... mine is set at 2000 rpm, and if i leave her in Drive thats where she shifts up shift and down.
so in technical terms shes auto but the new shift valve in the kit turns your manual shifting experience into manual valve body action..
i manually shift mine 90% of the time then that occasional leave it in drive and go "like when i'm stuffing my mouth with that fast food" LOL just joking
but i think you get the picture
a lot of my un mechanical friend always asked me "what is this a manual trans mission 4 -5 speed"? and i try to explain it... a manual auto like the modern"auto stick" vehicles.
IMO you will not regret this kit i highly recommend it, and i give it a 5 star rating...

 

The Transgo kit should also have directions to modify the oil systen

 

yes it does. you also get a small drill bit,

 

Thanks guys awesome.
Not many 46rh around in Aus, what about a A500 i'm assuming this maybe a 42 rh or something like that, i hav'nt really entertained this yet, thinking it's too weak. it's just that ones just come up for sale here.

 

The a500 is the same as the a518 = light duty auto. Look around for a a618 as those would be the HD version = 46rh.

 

What cars /trucks did the a618 come out in?

 

the 2-6-8 are used to identify the number of frictions in the od unit. also extra frictions in the main case... reg. HD. Super Duty.
the 4 is the number of gears
the rh-re refer to, electric or hydraulic for engaging the od unit.
the 518-46 has the main body equal too the 727, med/hev duty
the 500-42 the same as the 904, light duty
the 518-48 has the 727 main and the od has 8 frictions in it ,heavy duty
the big boy 618-48 is 727 main with heavy duty internals and extra frictions the od is an 8 friction unit also, but this is a diesel specific housing and timed unit.. super duty.
i know the internal parts swap like any other "727"

lets say i find one in the junkyard, after dissecting it
i would get most of my parts from the local supplier,
"PACT" has a lot of rebuild kits with hard parts...so depending on what the trany needs would make a difference to where and who i would get the parts from.
Rebuilding a mopar trany is not that hard, you do need a shop manual which any of the suppliers will have, and a shop press, a set of snap ring pliers, steal pick, micrometer a couple of trays clean uncluttered work space preferably not the dinning room table LOL.

 

Ok, so lets say i get a a518, strip everything out and buy the ramzilla kit would this work?
Is there any inherit problems with the case or other parts in this regard?
I'm gathering from what 78D200 says, again assuming ( i know i should'nt) the 618 is a better base to start with, but i think here in Aus i might have better luck finding a 518.
What are your thoughts?