So today I decided to make a mini me key chain as I do with all my cars and not 10 minutes after snapping these pix, I blew the rear end right in front of my shop




I manged to limp her into the shop and got her on the lift, but found a not so sweet spot where I can spin the DS and have the wheels do nothing

Most likely munched a chunk out of the ring gear

What's funny is that I did the same thing in one of my T/A's years ago in the exact same spot lol



My '98 T/A came with a POS 7.5" 10-bolt that was rebuilt 5 times under warranty, replaced with a new unit under warranty and rebuilt another 5 times under warranty lol

When the warranty was finally up, I replaced it with a brand new Strange 12-Bolt and called it done.

Anyways, I know the Chrysler 8-3/4 rears are stout units and what happened to mine was probably a fluke from a bad gear install (she's had some bad vibes ever since I got her), but would it be worth it to do a rebuild or should I just spring for a Dana?

 

Snake,

Personally, I'd spend the and grab a Dana 60. Those rearends are grenade proof! Matter of fact, that was one of the contributing factors to my purchase. The RR had to have a Dana 60.
My $0.02.

 

Did a bit of searching and it looks like a Dana just isn't in my budget right now

Anyways, I decided to tear it down about 30 minutes ago












Took a couple of nice chunks out of the ring.

I'm guessing it was just a $h!t gear install since the ring has a missing bolt.

Depending on the price for a local replacement center, I may end up just rebuilding with a fresh set of gears and a solid collar.

In the meantime, will it be ok if I install the axles without the center section so I can move her around to the back of the shop?

The housing doesn't have an inner axle tube to keep it centered, so it would be relying on the 5 retainer bolts only.

 

I would not move it around with the axles flopping around, that's why we keep an old 741 open here.

Regarding the size of differential, I know it's a tough decision, one I've struggled with over the years. My thinking was changed after talking to a couple of B Body Big Block guys who have been down this road. Each started off with the best parts then after bigger everything and new cases, aluminum and steel, and 35 splines one went to a Ford Pro 9" the other to a Dana 60. Each said they should have done it from the start as they both had well over $2000.00 in their axles.

 

if you find out what brand ring and pinion let us know.
so now i guess that explains the vibration you where feeling

 

YEP Ive seen that before I use richmond gears as a replacement didnt have any problems but I also had a 340 with a full manual 727 with 3500 stall. You got a 440 with a stick and Ive seen the videos and I need say no more. Its all good snake we have them to have fun and play, No Dis here. I would rebuild it and fly, get yer done and back on the road. By the way love the videos. Bill

 

I'm only moving about 30ft. tops, so it should be ok.

I remember doing the same to a Ford 9" after shattering the 3rd member and actually pulled the diff and flat towed hit home without any axle shaft issues.



If they're stamped, I'll find out, but if they weren't setup right from the start, it wouldn't really matter what brand they are.

If anything, I'll be installing a solid collar at the very least.


Thanks Bill,

It's actually a TF727 w/reverse manual valve body, not a stick

 

Nice, Love the car... The sound seems off in the video the sound shifts then you shift and the door closes then you close the door a couple of second later.It took me a little while to get it. The reason I thought it was a stick was because of your burn out video I cant remember but I thought you got a good 2nd gear rubber. But with the stall convertor in my 340 Charger it didnt stop spinning till 3rd gear when I really got on it, Im sure its the same for you.

 

That's odd

Working fine on my end.

Try using a different quality setting.

If you click on 1080HD and don't have a 1080 screen, it could cause it to delay the video while the audio streams normal.

She'll spin 2nd with ease and even grab a bit of 3rd when the tires are cold.

Last weekend I tried a set of 14" wheels with street rubber and lit up 3rd at will.

Nuthin but a cloud of smoke from a 60 roll lol

 

See thats why its so important to get baby fixed!!!!! She is just so much fun you cant live without her... Lol Dont push her out back just get what you need and fix her man.

 

i always thought it's better to move forward than sit and spin?

 

i think you'll appreciate this.
https://moparforums.com/forums/f62/check-out-13813

 

Snake, tried the video again and it was fine. Gorts, sometimes when your making major HP and the slicks are off the car because your on the street. the street tires dont bite like the slicks and the slicks dont bite if there cold, my street tires were 12" wide too. Even like snake was saying 60 mph roll and you punch it, it still spins. Mine was 30Mph and it would spin like nothing. That my friend is fun in the sun and impresses the hell out of chevy & ford lovers. Trust me... Just make sure there are no cops around they frown on it trust me again...Bill

 

Gorts, that you tube video is notta it doesnt work. it says it doesnt exsit.

 

Ok, I currently have 3.91's and they seem perfect off the line, but since I do quite a bit of highway driving, I was thinking about going with 3.73's this time around and maybe compensate later on with a higher stall converter

Running 29" rubber now and plan on stepping up to 30"

Thoughts on this?

 

Snake,

What's wrong with 4.10's? I enjoy doing 55 MPH in the slow lane at 3100 RPM!!

 

4.10's would be way too low.

I wouldn't even consider them without a GVOD or sumthin.

I've narrowed it down to either 3.73's or 3.91's again.

 

Snake, With the Hp your running you wont even notice the difference in the higher ratio. its not even a 1/4 turn on the DS so I doubt very much you would even feel the difference with a big block and you might even get a little better fuel mileage. You will prob. see a 300 rpm change in drive. I would go with 3:73 it will boost your et in the 1/4 too...

 

Not always true! With me, just make sure no one is around to watch me watch you!!!

Snake take you a large floor jack and put it under the axle and you can move it. Or take a piece of thick walled PVC or metal pipe. make sure that the ID of the Pipe will fit over the ends of the axle with ease but not too loose. Have someone hold it at the center of the axle housing and slide the axle shafts in. the pipe should hold the two together and keep them from flopping around. Should let you move it around the shop.

 

Already moved it.

A jack wouldn't have worked cause the ground is too rough where it's parked.

I actually stuffed the entire housing with oily rags, so they're not knocking about in there lol

Dropped the center at the local drive line shop and having my guy rebuild it.

After pricing everything to do it myself, it was only about $100 bucks off and he's giving me 1 year warranty.

Besides, he's been rebuilding diffs longer than I've been alive lol

 

What brand gears are you going with?

If your axle guy builds axles, you might be able to build a D60 cheaper than you can buy one. Heck depending on the bolt pattern, you may be able to build one yourself.

 

He gave me 3 options to choose from.

US Gear, Richmond or Yukon.

Now, I know any gear set is only as good as the installer, so I asked him what he was most comfortable setting up.

He suggested Yukon, so that's what I went with.

I checked with him and even a used D60 with random diff and gears is more than double the rebuild cost on the 8-3/4

 

What ratio did you go with snake?

 

I would sugest the BIG 1350 ???? U joint flange be installed also

 

Good choice on the gears. Yukon gears always setup nicely.

Building a D60 with parts would be more than a rebuild but it may be cheaper than going with a stock D60.

 

100 bucks is right on and I have Yukon gears in my 8 3/4".

 

Snake,

Ever find out what's the widest tire you can fit in the stock rear? I'd like to bump up my current 295/55/15's with a wider tire if that's possible.

 

I've put my tire purchase on hold until the rear is done, but I'll most likely be going with 295/65/15 MT Street Radials, which are basically 30x12.5x15

My current tires are 29x12.5x15 MT Sportsman Pros and there's room to spare on the quarter lip and because they have a rounded contact patch, fits nice in the wheel wells.

The MT Street radials, although taller with the same width measurement, has a skinnier section width, so there will be even more clearance at the quarter lip.

However, the main issue will be clearance within the wheel wells because they have a slightly wider and comparably flatter tread width.

From what I've seen, if it will rub, it will be on the outer curves of the wheel wells, which I can massage a bit if needed.

 

Im buyin gears tomorrow I got an 89 chunk it has 3.91 but am thinking 3.55....I wished you lived close by cause we could find a dana sittin in someone junk truck and get it cheap and weld btkts and flanges up and find a sure grip and there is always gears lieing around.

 

OK, picked up the rebuilt 3rd member earlier today and took my sweet time installing it while taking A/C breaks every 20 minutes (101 f#cking degrees today!!)











Now comes the really hard part....

Slowly breaking it in for the next 500 miles