how auto 727 works?

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Old 04-18-2011, 07:34 PM
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how auto 727 works?

Iv researched this transmission quite a bit on my own but i still have questions about customization and operation, other than adding/removing clutch discs and shift kits do the gears or inards change from transmission to transmission? I guess I'm just trying to understand what modification accomplishes as far as clutch discs go and if a shift kit does anything more than hold gears a bit longer and shift more efficiently.

Thanks for any info
Old 04-18-2011, 08:00 PM
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I'm planning on rebuilding my first 727, in fact, my first auto sometime this summer. There's tons of info on the www, just Google for it. The "All Par" site has a lot. Also there are a couple of good books you can get.

One is by Carl H. Munroe, HP Books "Torqueflite A-727 Transmission Handbook", "How to Rebuild or Modify Chrysler's A-727 Torqueflite for all Applications"

Another is the ATSG (Auto Transmission Service Group) which produces service books for just about any trans.
Old 04-18-2011, 09:04 PM
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The 727 is easy to rebuild as far as transmissions go. Take it apart and lay each piece aside in the order it was removed It helps when re assembling to have the tail shaft pointing down. Maybe with a few wheels and a piece of plywood. Everything needs to be cleaned.I don't have a slide hammer /puller to take the front pump out. LOOK there are some threaded holes in the pump Put some long bolts in and use a claw hammer against the bolt head to pull/knock it out Make sure to flush the radiator cooler. The throttle pressure from the carb is critical, Transgo and B&M both make shift kits if you want a firmer shift.
Old 04-19-2011, 12:37 AM
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If you put a couple of long bolts into the threaded holes in the pump, and have a fairly long section of chain, maybe 3 ft or so, you can use it as a make shift slide hammer to pull the pump out. Slack off the chain in your hand, then quickly jerk on it, and it acts like a slide hammer to pull your pump. You'll probably have to repeat it several times, each time it will move the pump out a little.
Old 05-06-2011, 05:48 AM
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Good advice all around. Xs 2 on the book from Munroe,
As for the pump, I use two peices of threaded rod and a peice of angle iron. From there you coud tap it up till it pops free. I have a slide hammer so this makes a great puller.
Old 05-06-2011, 07:42 AM
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Also, there are some videos you can view on you tube that might get you going:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xzJhCBZ1wMY

http://www.youtube.com/user/Autotransmissions#g/u
Old 05-13-2011, 05:59 AM
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great video thanx for that, here is the puller I made. It's bolted to my pinion yoke but the outer holes are for the 727 front pump.
Attached Thumbnails how auto 727 works?-pinion-seal-007.jpg   how auto 727 works?-pinion-seal-005.jpg  
Old 05-13-2011, 08:33 AM
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yeah that was a great set of videos i learned quite a bit there, at one point I was gonna rebuild my 727 but when I went to dissassemble it the whole thing was welded together inside and the input shaft wouldnt come out took it to a transmission guy i know that specialized in them and he couldnt get it out either so i took it in for a core and got a new one. I still have my rebuild kit so im just waiting for this new one to need rebuilding then ill finaly have the chance to get my hands dirty with it. It was interesting to see in the vid the guy just slid it right out and with mine we had 3 guys yanking on it and it wouldnt give.
Old 06-17-2011, 01:21 AM
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removing pump

I always just remove the valve body then use a big screwdriver between the direct drum lugs where they lock to the sungear shell. Don't pry side to side or you can snap the lugs off the direct drum. If you still can't get the pump out, make sure the starter studs are out and just slam the case face down onto an asphalt driveway. Hey be sure to back off the front band and remove the struts first.
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