Need help picking the right torque converter
 

Do not know whitch auto trans it has in it there was two available for that year my truck is a dodge ram 1500 5.9L 4x4 off road edition would like a new torque converter but don't know how to select one :duck:

I am no expert but have the weight of the vehicle, the gear ratio, the HP and torque of your motor and call a company like Turbo Action or Transmission Specialties.

Ok right now I am doing a motor rebuild so the best thing to do is wait till I am finished I was hoping to get in there while I had it apart

Unless your builder or yourself can get an idea of the hp and torque. You might also call your cam shaft supplier and see what they recommend.

I am going with a custom ground racer brown cam that's where I need to turn to for the answer prob

Racer Brown is gonna make you one correct? Give us specs..

Also you will need to retune pcm to work with cam change and dont over cam that intake. Its done at 4500. No flow after that. It makes great power off idle.

what gears in the truck and whats its application?

Rebuilding because I love my truck that's about it I figured if I am going to do it why not really do it get the best I can in my price rang yes he is I am going to have everything done then send him new spec sheet on motor gearing and trany upgrade I will be nosing the half keg with a design I have come up with as well as topping it with a fast man throttle body I will try and document the keg mod if it works I will share

I have done the intake mod. And it doesn't do anything worth while without retuning the pcm. However the computer can handle the intake mod and exhaust mods without drivablity issues. The pcm wont handle a cam. It will run but it will be a dog.

Your first issue is the PCM. The computer itself is a restriction in the system. The current flash is very poor. And if you have a sticker on the inside left of the hood that says "reflash" Then that truck was detuned to prevent detonation from the intake plenum leak that they all had. We call that the "death flash".

Fastman makes very good TB and runs a very good business. I recommend Dan and have done business with him. Good choice.

I would recommend proceeding in a sequence that allows you to modify without going backwards and losing function.

SCT Tuner ( they are located in FL and can tune for you or refer you to a tuner).
Exhuast Headers and delete that y pipe (retune fuel and timing curve)
M1 or Hughes Air Gap ( retune big time as you will have usable rpm to 6k.

At that point a cam with new valve springs will really wake the beast.

I have the fast man and the headers going to a full 3" true duel exhaust really want to stick with the half keg don't know why I even know it a bad idea but I guess I will just have to tell my self told you so latter def looking for a place to retune in north east Florida

It will work.

Do you know how to reset (erase) pcm learned data? Do that and make the swap. The system is very "fat" fuel wise so you will be ok with the intake and exhaust. Like I said before. The pcm can relearn idle so long as fuel trim is within spec.

I word of caution on the swap. Do NOT remove the dizzy until you key its location.

The position of the dist body to rotor sets "cam fuel sync". I wont bore you with tech crap but short version it controls when the injector fire in relationship to valve timing. To early and the fuel hits the back of valve when closed. It does nothing with ignition timing.

You need a snap on mt2500 min to set the sync. And the car MUST be running.

remove dist cap, rotate motor until rotor points to the intake manifold bolt directly under the ac compressor. Also known as intake bolt 1. You do not aim at number 1 cylinder... Use a straight edge if needed. Score the dist body and mark the block so rotor, dist body are all lined up.

You will prob see pink or white paint dot on dist body. That is factory witness mark to line it up on assembly. However when folks clean the rear valley wall for manifold assembly they wash off the mark with acetone based cleaners some times... This is a big cause of a "no start" after a cam install.

Hope this saves you that hassle....

Good luck with your build!

Thank you for the info

Barry, I posted your PM question here in case someone else needs the info.


Pull the AC compressor. Dont let freon out. Just undo the 4 bolts holding it to the bracket. 13mm I think. Rotate the Compressor to Pass side in engine compartment. Under where the compressor was in the bracket itself you should be able to see and access an intake manifold bolt. There is an access hole there to get to it. THATS NUMBER 1 intake bolt.

Pull Cap off Dizzy.

Bump motor over until that rotor tip is aimed directly at that NUMBER 1 intake bolt. Use a straight edge or level to make sure its close. I bump it with the started and dial it in with socket on crank pulley bolt.

Now tape the body of the dizzy to the rotor. The rotor is keyed to the shaft and the dizzy gear so the case or body of the dizzy can move like normal dizzys. But you don't want it to. I just mark or key a reference mark but tape, tie, do whatever you need to make it easier for you. Movement under 1/8 inch is within tolerance.


Remember you don't need to pull it to do the intake. But you will for a cam swap.

And if you screw it up, all is not lost. There is a 17.5 mark on the balancer. You have to look but its there. When you place that at 0 on the timing mark number on the front cover the cam pickup is energized. When you rotate the dizzy while probing the trigger wire it will get voltage when it is in its sweet spot of -4 0 +4 . Its more complicated than that but that's the short version.

If you goof and cant get her fired. PM me.