What year c body can I take the front disc brakes from to convert my 1968 Newport to disc brakes?

 

Any C body with disks

 

A 1974-1976 A body has the big 11" disc setup.

 

You need to be careful with this , C body brakes changed a lot year to year , onr year 66-68 had a unique 4 piston set up , ball joints are unavailable & have to be rebuilt from your core @ $200 each , if compatable later single piston brake systems are much easier to work with .

 

1973 ONLY C body is your only option.

 

why change them in the first place?

 

I think if you get the complete brake assembly & Upper control arm maybe the lower too.. You should not have ball joint problems. I remember I put a set of the big Chryser drums on the front of my 66 Coronet I think they were 11x3 - That was back in the early 70's

 

Aww someone doesnt know how to fix brakes properly.

Actually it doesn't surprise me in the least not many can. Some of the parts such as good wheel cylinders for them are not so easy to find anymore. When they work they work as good or better than disc brakes.

I personally have driven around in heavy city traffic on hot days and never encountered brake fade even going up and down inclined roads so the fade from rapid stopping to me is pure myth.

Still many seem to think that it is easier to change an entire brake system, it's not just the front, than to replace a bad drum or wheel cylinder on a car that sees maybe 500 miles a year since its a show car.

Hence my original question. Why do you want to change them?

 

Peace of mind? LOL

 

Very easy swap.
You simply need the set up off a newer car, get the whole deal, spindles to booster. It will go right in. Most anything you need is still available over the counter.
Check out the "c-bodydrydock". There are threads on this daily.

 

I am looking to change to disc brakes in the front because I have experienced brake fade. I am leaving the rear brakes drum for now as they are huge! But when your pushing 700 horsepower and need to stop sooner than 300 feet, dics are a must!

 

I hear that. I had a 72 charger with power drum brakes and at the end of the 1/4 mile it took both feet to stop it. But it also was a 12 second car. I even had to down shirt to not over shoot the return road.

 

I just updated my part hauler to a new model brake from a newer year. Went from a 11 inch disk / single piston ( which it killed every 18 months) to a 12.2 inch dual piston. All factory stuff. No special anything.

The factory did this change in the middle of the model run as they realized the issues with the small thin front disk.

"Peace of Mind" was quoted up above..... Aint that the truth!!!! Maybe I'm just getting old but it was one of the most satisfying swaps I did. A huge difference.

I have a couple of sources that could have made brackets to use viper and zr1 or new chev 1500 stuff ( 13 inch) but elected MOPAR OEM stuff for no nonsense over the road repair if needed.

I would advise you to consider the inside diameter wheels and your spare if you add a bigger brake...

Let us know what you go with and any issues.

 

Guessing your parts hauler is an early Dodge truck, say '70s. I've had the same rotors on my 78 since I bought it in the 90's. You must haul a lot of heavy parts.
That 11" rotor is just what the O.P. wants. The reason they are even available is they were on trucks well into the 70's, maybe later. They used the same rotors & calipers on, I believe, the 73&up Chryslers. The spindle, will have to come from a newer "C-body" I can't remember but I don't think the control arms need to be replaced just the spindle out.
Going from drum to disc. the master will need to be changed too.
If power brakes, the master and booster will need to be changed.
If changing from power to standard or the other way around, you will need the proper brake pedal as well.
As mentioned above you will need at the least factory 15" rims. The stock 14''ers will not clear the caliper.

 

As I said ,you need 73 ONLY spindles!