Wheel cylinder removal help

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Old Dec 20, 2011 | 03:20 PM
  #1  
Arbiter343GS's Avatar
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From: Lawrenceville, Ga
Wheel cylinder removal help

I have yet another brake question(Ive never had this much trouble with brakes before) I got the drum off but now< I need to remove the wheel cylinder only problem one of the bolts are in a tight spot and I cant quite seem to get anything to it to turn it. Its a 1966 Plymouth Fury III and the wheel cylinder Im talking about is the front driver side one and the bolt(of the two holding it on) is the one closest to the front of the vehicle. Any help is GREATLY appreciated, because a one day brake job is lasting 3 days now.
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Old Dec 20, 2011 | 03:33 PM
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I am starting to think I will have to remove the backing plate, but that seems like too much to remove a nut from the wheel cylinder.
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Old Dec 20, 2011 | 03:58 PM
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I would try taking the upper ball joint loose to get more room. Maybe you can get it with a pair of vise grips
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Old Dec 20, 2011 | 10:30 PM
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I just ended up having to take the backing plate off. Thank you though.
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Old Jan 26, 2012 | 03:17 PM
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Yep that is the proper way for c-bodies. Taking the upper ball joint off wont work as the bolt is actually hidden behind the spindle itself.
Put a jack under the lower control arm for suport and be careful as the weight of the car is supported by the spring at this point.
First time I did this, I just unscrewed the bolts out and the whole thing jumped off the jack stand could have been very bad.
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Old Jan 26, 2012 | 04:15 PM
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here's what i'm talking about
Attached Thumbnails Wheel cylinder removal help-new-port-backing-plate.jpg  
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Old Jan 26, 2012 | 07:00 PM
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Thanks for the info. I am getting ready to replace the front wheel cylinders on my Fury. Rick
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Old Apr 6, 2012 | 10:09 PM
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I installed new front wheel cylinders on my '68 Fury today and remembered this thread.

Yes, the bolts are hard to get to. The front bolt is the worse. I could get a 1/2" open end wrench on the bolt head but, there isn't any room to move the wrench. So, I started looking through what I had. I found a 12 point 'box' end wrench that was sort of thin and could kind of get it in between the spindle and the bolt head. I thought, 'If it was only a little thinner, it may go over the bolt.' I got out my little 4" grinder and ground both faces of the wrench to a point that I could get the box onto the head of the bolt. It turned! And the 12 points allow for the small room to turn the wrench.

The trick that I found was that you have to completely remove the rear bolt of the wheel cylinder FIRST. This way, when you're turning the front bolt, the wheel cylinder is coming away from the backing plate, rather than the bolt head traveling into the spindle.

It worked!! I felt proud of myself!!
Attached Thumbnails Wheel cylinder removal help-modified-wrench.jpg   Wheel cylinder removal help-modified-wrench-face.jpg  
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