Wheel cylinder removal help
12-20-2011, 03:20 PM
#1
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Location: Lawrenceville, Ga
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Wheel cylinder removal help
I have yet another brake question(Ive never had this much trouble with brakes before) I got the drum off but now< I need to remove the wheel cylinder only problem one of the bolts are in a tight spot and I cant quite seem to get anything to it to turn it. Its a 1966 Plymouth Fury III and the wheel cylinder Im talking about is the front driver side one and the bolt(of the two holding it on) is the one closest to the front of the vehicle. Any help is GREATLY appreciated, because a one day brake job is lasting 3 days now.
01-26-2012, 03:17 PM
#5
Yep that is the proper way for c-bodies. Taking the upper ball joint off wont work as the bolt is actually hidden behind the spindle itself.
Put a jack under the lower control arm for suport and be careful as the weight of the car is supported by the spring at this point.
First time I did this, I just unscrewed the bolts out and the whole thing jumped off the jack stand could have been very bad.
Put a jack under the lower control arm for suport and be careful as the weight of the car is supported by the spring at this point.
First time I did this, I just unscrewed the bolts out and the whole thing jumped off the jack stand could have been very bad.
04-06-2012, 10:09 PM
#8
Mopar Lover
I installed new front wheel cylinders on my '68 Fury today and remembered this thread.
Yes, the bolts are hard to get to. The front bolt is the worse. I could get a 1/2" open end wrench on the bolt head but, there isn't any room to move the wrench. So, I started looking through what I had. I found a 12 point 'box' end wrench that was sort of thin and could kind of get it in between the spindle and the bolt head. I thought, 'If it was only a little thinner, it may go over the bolt.' I got out my little 4" grinder and ground both faces of the wrench to a point that I could get the box onto the head of the bolt. It turned! And the 12 points allow for the small room to turn the wrench.
The trick that I found was that you have to completely remove the rear bolt of the wheel cylinder FIRST. This way, when you're turning the front bolt, the wheel cylinder is coming away from the backing plate, rather than the bolt head traveling into the spindle.
It worked!! I felt proud of myself!!
Yes, the bolts are hard to get to. The front bolt is the worse. I could get a 1/2" open end wrench on the bolt head but, there isn't any room to move the wrench. So, I started looking through what I had. I found a 12 point 'box' end wrench that was sort of thin and could kind of get it in between the spindle and the bolt head. I thought, 'If it was only a little thinner, it may go over the bolt.' I got out my little 4" grinder and ground both faces of the wrench to a point that I could get the box onto the head of the bolt. It turned! And the 12 points allow for the small room to turn the wrench.
The trick that I found was that you have to completely remove the rear bolt of the wheel cylinder FIRST. This way, when you're turning the front bolt, the wheel cylinder is coming away from the backing plate, rather than the bolt head traveling into the spindle.
It worked!! I felt proud of myself!!
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