1 Wire alternator
10-16-2011, 08:39 PM
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1 Wire alternator
Hello everyone - I need to "fix" my 1968 GTX wiring issue. Was a drag car - hacked wiring. It is fixable (I believe) with with a little time and patience, but it will never be original again, unless someone wants to buy the car and do it themselves. SO, with that said, I am looking at putting in a one wire alternator 60 - 100amp. I would like to use a brand/type from Napa or Kragens that will fit in the original harness. What year, type, make or model do I need to use? also, I will be using an Autometer gauage, how should I wire this?? I need to get the battery charging and be able to use the lights. Also, tach is random, so I feel starting here will start working out some of the gremlins.
Thanks in advance
Thanks in advance
10-17-2011, 10:14 AM
#2
I don't like "one wire" alternators. That being said, they are NOT a cure-all for troubles, and may not fix the troubles you may have
I believe the common no. for a Delco is 7127. The only difference between common 10 or 12SI Delco series that MAKES THEM a "one wire" is the regulator. Nothing else is special.
So far as your wiring, SUSPECT some of this:
Very VERY common troubles nowadays in old Mopars is the bulkhead connector and ammeter wiring. The bulkhead connector was NEVER really heavy enough for high- output alternators.
Read some of this from Mad Electrical:
http://www.madelectrical.com/electri...p-gauges.shtml
More here, including info on "one wire" setups:
http://www.madelectrical.com/electrical-tech.shtml
If you DO put a heavier alternator on your troubled car, I recommend highly that you DO bypass the ammeter AND ALSO take the bulkhead connector apart and INSPECT AND CLEAN the terminals, and replace or bypass any bad ones. One way to do this is to ream out the connector holes and "pass" wire directly through the bulkhead. Also inspect your ammeter / terminals for heat damage or even just loose. If you do perform the bypass, remove the ammeter wires, either put both wires on one meter post, or hook them permanently together.
Hook your "one wire" alternator with a large gauge wire directly from the output of the alternator to the battery. A good terminal to use is the bolt on the starter relay.
So far as hooking up your new meter, is this a voltmeter or ammeter?
If it's a voltmeter, generally, you need "switched ignition" or accessory power to hook it up. You could tap into say, the radio supply wire plug and hook it there. Because I'm not there, and don't know how your wiring is chopped up, difficult to say
ONE THING YOU NEED TO CHECK for certain is to find out how bad the "voltage drop is" in you harness to the ignition system. Your original ignition voltage comes OUT of the bulkhead connector on a "DARK BLUE" wire and goes to one side of the ballast resistor for the coil. You need to find this supply and check this:
Turn the key to "run" with engine off. Measure the voltage AT the battery, then measure the voltage at the dark blue wire. There should be NO MORE than 1/2 volt difference, and in reality, should be MUCH LESS
One way to measure this directly is to place one probe of your meter directly onto the battery positive post, the other probe on the dark blue wire. This will directly give you the difference.
What this is showing is the LOSS (voltage drop) in voltage from the battery, through the bulkhead, ammeter wiring, through the ignition switch, and back out the bulkhead connector due to poor connections.
This loss will affect your charging voltage as well as voltage to the igniton system.
I believe the common no. for a Delco is 7127. The only difference between common 10 or 12SI Delco series that MAKES THEM a "one wire" is the regulator. Nothing else is special.
So far as your wiring, SUSPECT some of this:
Very VERY common troubles nowadays in old Mopars is the bulkhead connector and ammeter wiring. The bulkhead connector was NEVER really heavy enough for high- output alternators.
Read some of this from Mad Electrical:
http://www.madelectrical.com/electri...p-gauges.shtml
More here, including info on "one wire" setups:
http://www.madelectrical.com/electrical-tech.shtml
If you DO put a heavier alternator on your troubled car, I recommend highly that you DO bypass the ammeter AND ALSO take the bulkhead connector apart and INSPECT AND CLEAN the terminals, and replace or bypass any bad ones. One way to do this is to ream out the connector holes and "pass" wire directly through the bulkhead. Also inspect your ammeter / terminals for heat damage or even just loose. If you do perform the bypass, remove the ammeter wires, either put both wires on one meter post, or hook them permanently together.
Hook your "one wire" alternator with a large gauge wire directly from the output of the alternator to the battery. A good terminal to use is the bolt on the starter relay.
So far as hooking up your new meter, is this a voltmeter or ammeter?
If it's a voltmeter, generally, you need "switched ignition" or accessory power to hook it up. You could tap into say, the radio supply wire plug and hook it there. Because I'm not there, and don't know how your wiring is chopped up, difficult to say
ONE THING YOU NEED TO CHECK for certain is to find out how bad the "voltage drop is" in you harness to the ignition system. Your original ignition voltage comes OUT of the bulkhead connector on a "DARK BLUE" wire and goes to one side of the ballast resistor for the coil. You need to find this supply and check this:
Turn the key to "run" with engine off. Measure the voltage AT the battery, then measure the voltage at the dark blue wire. There should be NO MORE than 1/2 volt difference, and in reality, should be MUCH LESS
One way to measure this directly is to place one probe of your meter directly onto the battery positive post, the other probe on the dark blue wire. This will directly give you the difference.
What this is showing is the LOSS (voltage drop) in voltage from the battery, through the bulkhead, ammeter wiring, through the ignition switch, and back out the bulkhead connector due to poor connections.
This loss will affect your charging voltage as well as voltage to the igniton system.
The following users liked this post:
Battle Scars (10-31-2012)
10-18-2011, 01:44 PM
#3
Super Moderator
I used a new 120 amp Nippon Denso unit made for a John Deere tractor. Still need a voltage source to monitor the voltage and an igniton source to turn it on. Three wire hook up but easy installation. I did bypass the amp gauge. I used the old heavy black from the alternator to backfeed the fuse box and such. Took it straight to the battery. The other wire with the fusible link feeds twelve volts to the fuse box and such. I ran a large 8 awg wire from the back of the alternator all the way around to the battery.
Last edited by bremereric; 10-19-2011 at 09:28 PM.
10-18-2011, 08:25 PM
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Thanks
Thanks guys, I appriciate the input. I guess if I ca't find anything close to stock, I will go with one of the powermaster units. Seems they are close, but I think the jury is still out.
10-19-2011, 09:03 AM
#5
The thing I don't care for about some of the alternator "stuff" is FIXING them if they fail. Many of these powermaster/ other aftermarket setups are not something that you can run downtown to the local parts store and get parts for, or replacements, either.
That for me, is a big factor, and is, for example, why I don't run stuff like Pertronix ignition. (While Pertronix seems to have a good rep, it CAN quit)
For me, then, the Delco's (7127) or a Denso off a common, stock application (Dakota?) is what I'd want to use.
That for me, is a big factor, and is, for example, why I don't run stuff like Pertronix ignition. (While Pertronix seems to have a good rep, it CAN quit)
For me, then, the Delco's (7127) or a Denso off a common, stock application (Dakota?) is what I'd want to use.
05-02-2012, 08:35 PM
#8
Super Moderator
10-31-2012, 01:27 PM
#9
Mopar Wiring Amp Gauge Power Issues and Fusible Link Wiring
I don't like "one wire" alternators. That being said, they are NOT a cure-all for troubles, and may not fix the troubles you may have
I believe the common no. for a Delco is 7127. The only difference between common 10 or 12SI Delco series that MAKES THEM a "one wire" is the regulator. Nothing else is special.
So far as your wiring, SUSPECT some of this:
Very VERY common troubles nowadays in old Mopars is the bulkhead connector and ammeter wiring. The bulkhead connector was NEVER really heavy enough for high- output alternators.
Read some of this from Mad Electrical:
http://www.madelectrical.com/electri...p-gauges.shtml
More here, including info on "one wire" setups:
http://www.madelectrical.com/electrical-tech.shtml
If you DO put a heavier alternator on your troubled car, I recommend highly that you DO bypass the ammeter AND ALSO take the bulkhead connector apart and INSPECT AND CLEAN the terminals, and replace or bypass any bad ones. One way to do this is to ream out the connector holes and "pass" wire directly through the bulkhead. Also inspect your ammeter / terminals for heat damage or even just loose. If you do perform the bypass, remove the ammeter wires, either put both wires on one meter post, or hook them permanently together.
Hook your "one wire" alternator with a large gauge wire directly from the output of the alternator to the battery. A good terminal to use is the bolt on the starter relay.
So far as hooking up your new meter, is this a voltmeter or ammeter?
If it's a voltmeter, generally, you need "switched ignition" or accessory power to hook it up. You could tap into say, the radio supply wire plug and hook it there. Because I'm not there, and don't know how your wiring is chopped up, difficult to say
ONE THING YOU NEED TO CHECK for certain is to find out how bad the "voltage drop is" in you harness to the ignition system. Your original ignition voltage comes OUT of the bulkhead connector on a "DARK BLUE" wire and goes to one side of the ballast resistor for the coil. You need to find this supply and check this:
Turn the key to "run" with engine off. Measure the voltage AT the battery, then measure the voltage at the dark blue wire. There should be NO MORE than 1/2 volt difference, and in reality, should be MUCH LESS
One way to measure this directly is to place one probe of your meter directly onto the battery positive post, the other probe on the dark blue wire. This will directly give you the difference.
What this is showing is the LOSS (voltage drop) in voltage from the battery, through the bulkhead, ammeter wiring, through the ignition switch, and back out the bulkhead connector due to poor connections.
This loss will affect your charging voltage as well as voltage to the igniton system.
I believe the common no. for a Delco is 7127. The only difference between common 10 or 12SI Delco series that MAKES THEM a "one wire" is the regulator. Nothing else is special.
So far as your wiring, SUSPECT some of this:
Very VERY common troubles nowadays in old Mopars is the bulkhead connector and ammeter wiring. The bulkhead connector was NEVER really heavy enough for high- output alternators.
Read some of this from Mad Electrical:
http://www.madelectrical.com/electri...p-gauges.shtml
More here, including info on "one wire" setups:
http://www.madelectrical.com/electrical-tech.shtml
If you DO put a heavier alternator on your troubled car, I recommend highly that you DO bypass the ammeter AND ALSO take the bulkhead connector apart and INSPECT AND CLEAN the terminals, and replace or bypass any bad ones. One way to do this is to ream out the connector holes and "pass" wire directly through the bulkhead. Also inspect your ammeter / terminals for heat damage or even just loose. If you do perform the bypass, remove the ammeter wires, either put both wires on one meter post, or hook them permanently together.
Hook your "one wire" alternator with a large gauge wire directly from the output of the alternator to the battery. A good terminal to use is the bolt on the starter relay.
So far as hooking up your new meter, is this a voltmeter or ammeter?
If it's a voltmeter, generally, you need "switched ignition" or accessory power to hook it up. You could tap into say, the radio supply wire plug and hook it there. Because I'm not there, and don't know how your wiring is chopped up, difficult to say
ONE THING YOU NEED TO CHECK for certain is to find out how bad the "voltage drop is" in you harness to the ignition system. Your original ignition voltage comes OUT of the bulkhead connector on a "DARK BLUE" wire and goes to one side of the ballast resistor for the coil. You need to find this supply and check this:
Turn the key to "run" with engine off. Measure the voltage AT the battery, then measure the voltage at the dark blue wire. There should be NO MORE than 1/2 volt difference, and in reality, should be MUCH LESS
One way to measure this directly is to place one probe of your meter directly onto the battery positive post, the other probe on the dark blue wire. This will directly give you the difference.
What this is showing is the LOSS (voltage drop) in voltage from the battery, through the bulkhead, ammeter wiring, through the ignition switch, and back out the bulkhead connector due to poor connections.
This loss will affect your charging voltage as well as voltage to the igniton system.
THANK YOU ALL!
I lost all power inside - DEAD! Battery fully charged but no power to lights, horn, switches etc...
After reading everyones posts and suggestions, I went straight to the amp gauge touched one of the terminals/nuts with a wrench and the interior lights instantly came on!
I then disassembled the dash and pulled the instrument cluster. The wires were loose which I suspect was why she was dying occasionally and the wires had melted their protective boots due to excessive heat = too much resistance.
Installed a MSD ignition and removed the ballast resistor.
Installed wire directly from battery to manual switch then to MSD coil.
Rewired the alternator wiring as per suggestions and "MAD" wiring diagram & links above.
"You mention reaming/drilling the bulkhead connector, middle block, position "J" on a 69 Plymouth V8 and running a wire directly to the ignition switch."
Question:
Do you need to add (splice/butt connectors) a fusible link into the direct wiring to the ignition switch?
Do you recommend running a new 10/12ga wire directly to the fuse block?
Thanks
Last edited by Battle Scars; 10-31-2012 at 02:03 PM. Reason: Spelling mistakes and cleaned up text
10-31-2012, 05:06 PM
#10
Running larger wires straight through the bulkhead is one way to improve the situation if you want to keep the ammeter. You really need larger than no10, especially if you are going to use a larger alternator
But many of us have elected to do away with the ammeter, which relieves a large current back/ forth through the bulkhead. If you hook a large no 8 or six direct from the alternator to the starter relay, and don't want to re--wire the car, you can then use both the charging line and original battery feed, jumpered together at the old ammeter terminals. This then allows both these wires to act in parallel, and become one large wire to feed the internal loads in the car. All charging current is now direct from the alternator to the battery.
So if you do this scheme, you should add a second fuse link in the old charging line IE between the alternator and the old black charging line, as this is now part of the main battery feed. You should be able to get them at parts stores.
I don't do this, as I've rewired the car "non factory." I've gone to a voltmeter, and am simply using the bulkhead connector as a place to feed wires straight through. One big no 8 or 6 wire goes direct from the alternator to the battery stud on the start relay.
But many of us have elected to do away with the ammeter, which relieves a large current back/ forth through the bulkhead. If you hook a large no 8 or six direct from the alternator to the starter relay, and don't want to re--wire the car, you can then use both the charging line and original battery feed, jumpered together at the old ammeter terminals. This then allows both these wires to act in parallel, and become one large wire to feed the internal loads in the car. All charging current is now direct from the alternator to the battery.
So if you do this scheme, you should add a second fuse link in the old charging line IE between the alternator and the old black charging line, as this is now part of the main battery feed. You should be able to get them at parts stores.
I don't do this, as I've rewired the car "non factory." I've gone to a voltmeter, and am simply using the bulkhead connector as a place to feed wires straight through. One big no 8 or 6 wire goes direct from the alternator to the battery stud on the start relay.
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