Hello there,
First time poster here. I'll get off to say that I have always been a sucker for old cars... but when I saw this 1968 Chrysler Newport, I had to have it. So, this is my problem. When I turn the fan speed onto low or high, nothing happens what so ever. The blowers inside of the dash do not work, nothing. I knew this was a problem when I bought the car... but I was under the assumption it was something simple. I want to test the A/C, but there's no way to try that when I can't even get the fan to blow air.

Here's a video on Youtube describing my problem (please, don't judge the poor lighting):

It's a very nice car, and I'd like to get the climate control working. Up here in Michigan, climate control is a must (it won't be driven in the winter, so heat wont be much of a concern). So if anyone has any ideas, as I assume this is an electrical problem, please let me know your thoughts.

Thanks!
-Curt

 

Check the fuses and the fan switch Also check that the blower motor turns-is not rusted solid

 

Not sure why I didn't check the fuses in the first place (doh!), but I checked them and I believe it was the culprit. There is a missing 20 Amp fuse for the accessories. I'll run over to NAPA today and buy a new fuse and see how it works. I just hope that the system still has freon in it...

 

[QUOTE=curtjr4;87530 I just hope that the system still has freon in it...[/QUOTE]

I wouldn't bet much money on that. Unless someone has put some money into maintaining the AC, including compressor shaft seal, the system has likely leaked out.

If so PLEASE do not fall into the trap that you can just "drop in" R-134 from some scam artist. You really should go to newer barrier hoses, possibly a rebuilt compressor, along with an agressive flush of the system to get the old oil out.

The way I see it is two choices:

1 Find someone who has some R-12, and by that I mean genuine R-12, not some propane mix, and suspect that the current oil charge is low.

2 Plan to spend the money, rebuild the system as necessary, and convert to R-134.

And PLEASE do yourself the favor of buying a FACTORY service manual. You can find both reprint paper, and "on CD" versions on the www, and ebay. I do NOT mean Chiltons, Haynes, etc, but Chrysler original.

 

Word to that. Actually, its probably easier / cheaper to just find some r-12 on ebay or something. Looking back, I wish I had done that instead of the switch to r-134a.

 

I actually know what you mean... as i have found in digging around in some of my crap that was packed away put up forgotten about 20 yrs ago or so, I found 4 cans of genu-wine r-12... All from K-Mart for .99 cents a can!!!! Yes it used to be that cheap.... I havent used it yet as not for sure WHICH vehicle I would like to use it in... ( i have 2 different choices lol) But it will be after a "test" run with an easy to get refrigerant and then a thorough flushing of system after all hoses are replaced and the other O-Rings ect changed/checked.... ( Have a friend in HAVC work, and he has suggested testing etc with an easily gotten cheap refrigerant- He is the professional in that field so i trust him)

 

Well, I went over to the service station down the road and picked up a fuse while I was getting gas. I put the fuse in, and it blew out again. I did feel hot air (and I mean HOT) come out of the vents as I was driving, but I couldn't really look into anything as it blew out again before I got home. I guess I'll pick up another fuse and just start eliminating what could have caused this (like make sure it doesn't blow in the off position, check what happens when I switch it to A/C, Heat, Defrost and so on).

As for the A/C, I've been talking to a guy who has been doing this type of work for a good portion of his life. He says what likely needs to be done is vacuum the line out, then check about a day later to see if it still has a vacuum. If it does, they'll likely drop freon in it. I also do intend on sticking with R12. I can pick up a few cans for about $20.

 

How many amps was the fuse you put in? If it keeps blowing fuses, you should get that sorted before charging the system. Look for nasty old wiring!

Also, MrOldart... be careful what you put in there. If there's any of the old r-12 oil in the system, and you put something else in, the two will not react well and will gum up the entire system rendering the compressor dead. If anything, make sure you flush it out real good first!

 

20 amps, as listed on the fuse block. I'll get a picture of the block its self. I'll need to get a manual to take the dash apart I guess.

 

If the fuse continues to blow, it's probably a bad motor, but don't discount that a poor connection right at the fuse clips -- rust, corrosion-- can cause heat which will prematurely blow a fuse. Also the motor may have dirt, debri impacted into the cage causing it to rub. This does not ALWAYS make noise.

And of course, lastly, you might have a wiring fault

If worst comes to worst, "they" make devices called "short finders." Nowadays, there are all kinds of fancy ones, but the originals were simply a current limiter and circuit breaker, replacing the fuse, which sat there and cycled just like a turn signal. A "meter" was then moved along the harness, to help find the short, based on increased magnetic field

Probably one of the oldest, traditional ones on the market is by KD tools:

 

Alright. Well, I'll have to get a manual to look at the motor and so on. Also, here's a picture of the fuse block. You can see under where the fuse would go.

 

Yes I do know this, but he is a car guy also, think he said he was going to use r-22 for the test/leak down part then do a good flush, etc... I am not an a/c guy for sure, so I am not really sure.. just sounds like a way to protect the "investment" of the r-12... He was going to flush evacuate and charge with the 22 or something similar (cant remember exactly, he talked about a couple different refrigerants).... and then flush evacuate etc with the r-12.... Did i mention I am NOT an a/c guy??

 

That is one REALLY nasty looking fuse clip. I'd say there's been a LOT of current going through there. You need to find out what/ all is hooked to it

 

Dang ima hafta order one of those....

 

For the "ACC" and "RR A/C", I actually put the little chip in the plastic when I tried getting it out (crap...). But what makes you think a lot of current was flowing through it? The brown/goldish contacts in the block? (Or were you referring to heat and a/c fuse?)

So anyways, to see what all is hooked up to it... does this mean I need to take the dash apart or what? Since before I do stuff like that, I want to get a Chrysler repair manual for it (Or a Chilton if I must).

 

MrOldart: Yeah, gotcha. I think the oil for the r 12 and the one you are talking about are compatible (don't quote me on that). The main thing is to not mix ones that aren't as it will gum up everything. So you might have to flush it more than once...whatapain. :-P

Curt: I bet you can get a wiring diagram online (someone probably has a link around here, or google it). Then you can check out the wiring from there.

 

I tried finding a schematic on Google, but came up with nothing.

 

These diagrams are not really correct, but are far better than nothing. You REALLY should get yourself a reprint of the factory manual, either paper or CD

I actually attempted to justify your fuse panel with this diagram, but was not able to

http://www.mymopar.com/downloads/1968/68ChryslerA.JPG

http://www.mymopar.com/downloads/1968/68ChryslerB.JPG


(came from here

http://www.mymopar.com/index.php?pid=31

 

Try un pluging the blower motor see if it still blows the fuse.

I remember, had a friend in the business. Used to buy R12 for .50 a can

Apparently it is something new ???? I'm in Calif I purchased a 12oz can of R134 for my van from auto zone and there was a $10 core charge on the F n can ??????. Time to go to Ebay.

By the way DON"T put freon with leak sealer in the system. It really gums up the system. Also watch and see if the compressor engages and turns when turned on. On the pass fender there should be a large cylinder (dryer) and a pressure switch. If the clutch doesn't engauge jump the switch ONLY for a second or two. If the clutch engages ? you are low on freon.. There is still a lot of R12 for sale on Ebay, due to the rules You have to have a license to buy it.. REPLACE the dryer if the system is to be re charged !!!!!
You will need to replace the hoses if you convert to R134
Other wise check into an aftermarket system replacement- Vintage Air ??? 4Seasons ???

 

Thanks! Yeah, I'll look into getting a manual for it. This should be the proper manual, correct?

I'll attempt to read those schematics. It'll be a project, though

Also, how would I go about disconnecting the blower motor from the circuit? I have no clue where it is located. I took the front piece off of the dash (the one that covers the radio and vents), but that lead me to a flexible pipe that the blown air comes from(I should have expected that. Quite a few cars are that way...)

 

That appears to be correct. Your question about the blower is EXACTLY why you need a factory shop manual --because the shop manual tells you this kind of thing.

You have to be somewhat "curious" though. Example is that sometimes "stuff" is in two sections

In the case of A/C you usually have to refer BOTH to the electrical section AND the A/C section for the WIRING of the AC.