Dodge Kingsway 1953????
08-05-2014 | 01:29 PM
#1
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Dodge Kingsway 1953????
Hey. I want to buy a new car tomorrow. A Dodge Kingsway 1953 and was wondering if anyone knows if it is 6 volt or 12 volt systems in the cars?
I forgot to ask the current owner, and can not expect to call and ask now
It's a 6 with 3 speed transmission in it.
Grateful for all the answers I get
I forgot to ask the current owner, and can not expect to call and ask now
It's a 6 with 3 speed transmission in it.
Grateful for all the answers I get
08-06-2014 | 03:29 AM
#3
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It felt embarrassing to call and ask when we had just been talking already.
I hope it is for the 12v is a little easier with the stereo, otherwise I probably see if there are 6 to 12 converter for just the stereo, or convert the car to 12v.
08-06-2014 | 02:49 PM
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There are a couple of ways to go. If you want the car to be "restore correct" I'd seriously consider leaving it 6V You can buy inverters from 6 to 12. You need to do some research and determine which ground this would be. Some manufactures switched in "mid stream."
So far as 12V conversion, not that difficult in general. You MUST convert to NEG ground if you go 12V otherwise your efforts are a waste
For "correct" appearance you could use a 12V generator. Any 12V generator which you can physically mount up will work IF you get a regulator which correctly matches the generator. This is important. Generator regulators must NOT be rated for more amperage than the generator puts out, because the regulator also controls amperage to protect the generator.
The thing that determines ground polarity is twofold.......one, how the generator was polarized (sometimes called "flashing the field" or "flashing") and the contacts in the regulator. some OEM regulators were made only for one polarity. Many replacement, aftermarket regulators were built to handle either polarity to reduce stock
Obviously, you need all 12V lamps
The 6V starter is fine. If this uses a solenoid, that may or may not work as is
Wipers and heater motor need proper dropping resistors. These must be "figured" as to load IE amperage draw
The ammeter only needs to have the wires reversed if it reads the wrong direction, changing ground polarity
You'll need a proper 12V coil
Gauges.....There's a product called a "Runtz" which is an electronic regulator. You need one for each electrical gauge except the ammeter
And, of course, any other special optional equipment. Some high end cars had automatic headlamp dimmers and other toys. These you'd have to deal with on a come-as basis
So far as 12V conversion, not that difficult in general. You MUST convert to NEG ground if you go 12V otherwise your efforts are a waste
For "correct" appearance you could use a 12V generator. Any 12V generator which you can physically mount up will work IF you get a regulator which correctly matches the generator. This is important. Generator regulators must NOT be rated for more amperage than the generator puts out, because the regulator also controls amperage to protect the generator.
The thing that determines ground polarity is twofold.......one, how the generator was polarized (sometimes called "flashing the field" or "flashing") and the contacts in the regulator. some OEM regulators were made only for one polarity. Many replacement, aftermarket regulators were built to handle either polarity to reduce stock
Obviously, you need all 12V lamps
The 6V starter is fine. If this uses a solenoid, that may or may not work as is
Wipers and heater motor need proper dropping resistors. These must be "figured" as to load IE amperage draw
The ammeter only needs to have the wires reversed if it reads the wrong direction, changing ground polarity
You'll need a proper 12V coil
Gauges.....There's a product called a "Runtz" which is an electronic regulator. You need one for each electrical gauge except the ammeter
And, of course, any other special optional equipment. Some high end cars had automatic headlamp dimmers and other toys. These you'd have to deal with on a come-as basis
Last edited by 440roadrunner; 08-06-2014 at 02:51 PM.
08-06-2014 | 03:01 PM
#6
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There are a couple of ways to go. If you want the car to be "restore correct" I'd seriously consider leaving it 6V You can buy inverters from 6 to 12. You need to do some research and determine which ground this would be. Some manufactures switched in "mid stream."
So far as 12V conversion, not that difficult in general. You MUST convert to NEG ground if you go 12V otherwise your efforts are a waste
For "correct" appearance you could use a 12V generator. Any 12V generator which you can physically mount up will work IF you get a regulator which correctly matches the generator. This is important. Generator regulators must NOT be rated for more amperage than the generator puts out, because the regulator also controls amperage to protect the generator.
The thing that determines ground polarity is twofold.......one, how the generator was polarized (sometimes called "flashing the field" or "flashing") and the contacts in the regulator. some OEM regulators were made only for one polarity. Many replacement, aftermarket regulators were built to handle either polarity to reduce stock
Obviously, you need all 12V lamps
The 6V starter is fine. If this uses a solenoid, that may or may not work as is
Wipers and heater motor need proper dropping resistors. These must be "figured" as to load IE amperage draw
The ammeter only needs to have the wires reversed if it reads the wrong direction, changing ground polarity
You'll need a proper 12V coil
Gauges.....There's a product called a "Runtz" which is an electronic regulator. You need one for each electrical gauge except the ammeter
And, of course, any other special optional equipment. Some high end cars had automatic headlamp dimmers and other toys. These you'd have to deal with on a come-as basis
So far as 12V conversion, not that difficult in general. You MUST convert to NEG ground if you go 12V otherwise your efforts are a waste
For "correct" appearance you could use a 12V generator. Any 12V generator which you can physically mount up will work IF you get a regulator which correctly matches the generator. This is important. Generator regulators must NOT be rated for more amperage than the generator puts out, because the regulator also controls amperage to protect the generator.
The thing that determines ground polarity is twofold.......one, how the generator was polarized (sometimes called "flashing the field" or "flashing") and the contacts in the regulator. some OEM regulators were made only for one polarity. Many replacement, aftermarket regulators were built to handle either polarity to reduce stock
Obviously, you need all 12V lamps
The 6V starter is fine. If this uses a solenoid, that may or may not work as is
Wipers and heater motor need proper dropping resistors. These must be "figured" as to load IE amperage draw
The ammeter only needs to have the wires reversed if it reads the wrong direction, changing ground polarity
You'll need a proper 12V coil
Gauges.....There's a product called a "Runtz" which is an electronic regulator. You need one for each electrical gauge except the ammeter
And, of course, any other special optional equipment. Some high end cars had automatic headlamp dimmers and other toys. These you'd have to deal with on a come-as basis
I found a converter for 6 to 12 volts.
It stood in the data: If you need a 12V car stereo in your motorcycle, you need a direct current.
Output current 10 A
Perhaps such could work in the car.
08-06-2014 | 08:20 PM
#7
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Well there are lots of inverters. Check the ground polarity of the supply voltage. Check the amperage output and don't cut it too close. If you have a "Great Big" stereo you expect to operate, REMEMBER that you will be DOUBLING the amperage at the 6V level ADDING the conversion inefficiency of the inverter. In other words you will be upping the amperage to something like 230% of the 12V draw.
And don't cut that too close. Stereos are sometimes rated for average power / amperage. Inverters may or may not be rated "with the same thinking" that your stereo was. What I'm saying is THEY MIGHT BE LYING.
And don't cut that too close. Stereos are sometimes rated for average power / amperage. Inverters may or may not be rated "with the same thinking" that your stereo was. What I'm saying is THEY MIGHT BE LYING.
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