Hi guys

Again I have electrical problems, my fury isn't charging the battery, the alternator gauge never comes into "charging" side, I checked the battery just to rule out that the alternator gauge were broken and the battery voltage is always 12.56V no matters the engine RPM. I already checked the fuse box (no blown fuse), battery terminals (both are fine) and checked if the alternator is producing charge and is making 12.4V at idle.

What can be wrong now? maybe broken voltage regulator again?

 

Yea, my bet is the VR...

 

Why could be the car blowing VR? if the problem is VR, this will be the second VR that I had to change in less than three months

 

You might have a wiring fault, but more likely a problem in the alternator.

Read the shop manual. Somewhere in there is a procedure to measure rotor amperage. Basically you hook the field to a battery, in series with a multimeter that can measure 10-20 amps, and with the belt off, you slowly turn the pulley to allow the brushes to "work." I don't remember exactly, as alternators have changed over the years. Most Mopar alternators draw 4A or less. I believe some of the newer, larger frame high output ones draw more like 6

Inspect the brushes and brush holders. Maybe you have something intermittently shorting.

Engine heat. Not knowing where it's mounted, this might be a factor

High Chinese quality. Yes, it just might be. Change brands.

 

That seems to be a good reason

I'm going to inspect the alternator, maybe something is wrong with it, is normal that the regulator came a bit hot when the engine running (isn't located near the engine)? usually heated but since this problem remains cold

 

Are you running an electronic setup or the stock alt/regulator? The stockers were prone to failure pretty badly (the black boxes), but the Mopar electronic ones are pretty hardy.

 

I've the stock alternator, new VR (the original failed three months ago) and HEI ignition

 

I DETEST reading these types of blanket statements. The 70/ later electronic regulators might have been a BETTER design, but the fact is that the original 60--69 regulators were used on MILLIONS of these cars and went BILLIONS of miles without being replaced.

Also, modern replacements are a "two way street." On the one hand, most if not all replacements ARE now electronic, even though replacing an electro-mechanical regulator, but most are now Chineseo. Of course, SO ARE the 70 / later design, unless you go round up a NOS

CHECK THE ROTOR CURRENT DRAW.