josehf34

Hi everybody

I'm looking for some help with my fury. A month ago I buy some parts for the car including new carburetor, new ignition coil and new distributor but now I'm having problems. Today I installed all those parts and try to start the car but when I crank the engine I don't get spark. I remove the new distributor and install the old (was the stock that came with the car from factory) and the car started without any problem. So I'm very concerned, what can be happening when I put the new distributor on? I think this could be an impedances problem, maybe the ignition module don't generate spark signal with the new distributor.

My ignition module is the stock mopar, this one: http://www.bmcuda.com/prodimages/large/3438850-1.jpg

This is the new distributor: http://www.ebay.com/itm/380453707588...84.m1439.l2648

This is the new ignition coil: http://www.ebay.com/itm/331037679552...84.m1439.l2648

I'm going to try again tomorrow but I really need some help from the forum experts

440roadrunner

I don't know much about those distributors. Do you have a link to the destructions RE: wiring it up? How IS it wired?

One likely problem is that you must understand how Mopar ignition systems work.

The ignition switch is actually SEVERAL separate switches in one can

accessory, ignition, start, and "ignition bypass" These are all distinctive circuits

Now "ignition run" which Ma calls IGN1 is hot ONLY in run it is NOT hot in start. This may be your problem.

Originally the bypass circuit, which Ma calls IGN2 and which is normally brown, comes from the ign switch, through the bulkhead connector, and to the coil + side of the ballast resistor.

THIS IS THE ONLY source of ignition power during "start." So if you are removing the ballast resistor, you must connect the run and bypass wires together ALONG WITH any other branch circuits such as regulator and alternator field, and run that junction off to your new ignition system.

josehf34

I'm not sure if this can be the problem due to when I notice that I wasn't getting spark from the coil I swap the distributor to the old and then I get spark from the coil, I don't change any wiring during the distributor swap

TVLynn

First the distributor you bought is self contained It does not require that ign module

josehf34

No ignition module (first time I heard this)? How it works? How is the wiring of this kind of distributor and where should I connect the ignition coil? sorry this is new for me

TVLynn

Not sure did it come with instructions ?
Red + coil Black - on coil
12 volt source to + on coil.. Your coil 1.4 ohms
just make sure it doesn't overheat


Recommended for use with ignition coils having 0.5-1.0 Ohms primary resistance, our 2041 E-Core coils work great with these!

josehf34

Thank you for all your help. Now the car is running but she's not on the road yet due to I have some carburetor overflowing problems and I can't find the vacuum line that goes to the transmission.

I'll be working on the car again tomorrow. Thanks to all who help me!

TVLynn

??? There is no vacuum line to the trans !!!!

440roadrunner

Thanks I should have remembered this

These have the ignition module IN the distributor which is where they get the name "ready to run."

Make sure you remove all other wires from the coil especially the negative coil terminal.

The only wire(s) allowed on the coil neg. terminal is the new black wire coming from the new distributor, and a wire to your tachometer if equipped.

Unplug the Mopar ignition module on the firewall.

The comment about coil overheating refers to the type of coil and whether or not you need a coil resistor. Frankly, if you are using "factory type" coils I'd retain the coil resistor.

What this means is that you need to leave your factory ballast resistor in place, and take the original coil + wire and hook this to the red on the new distributor.

I really don't know much about the reliability of these. Frankly I don't believe you've gained much over the factory breakerless setup.

TVLynn

IF you leave the factory ballast resistor in the circuit It does two things -- Adds resistances which adds heat and reduces the voltage to the coil SO unless the installation instruction require a ballast

bigblock

Just buy the correct coil and forget the ballast.

josehf34

I was pretty sure that the transmission has a vacuum line and It must be connected to a vacuum port on the carburetor. Like the follow image



The Mallory ignition coil that I bought came with instruction paper and it says that must use the ballast resistor so I used the stock that came with the mopar ignition module. I leave the car idling for about 30 minutes, then I checked the ignition coil temperature and it doesn't overheated so I think is fine. is it? or should I check the incoming voltage with a tester?

TVLynn

If it doesn't get hot don't worry about it. As to the vacuum Most carbs are based on GM transmissions like the powerglide that does have a vacuum modulator

josehf34

I don't know that most of the carbs are based on GM transmission so I'm going to cover the vacuum port marked as "transmission Vacuum". About the other two vacuum ports are marked correctly?