1969 Plymouth Fury III
318 Auto 2bbl

I almost dread listing all the steps that got me to this point, but basically my situation is thus:

Went through about 3 water pumps, finally figured out fan clutch needed replacing.
Replaced water pump and fan clutch.
Put it back together and wouldn't start - turn over but that's it.
Figured out timing chain was the problem (rotor didn't turn when cranking).
Cam sprocket on timing chain was literally broken in half.



Replaced timing set.
Lined up the dots at TDC on the compression stroke (another thing learned).
So now it would turn over and hit/try to fire, but wouldn't actually start.
Figured out when key was turned all the way to engage starter, engine would start, but cut off when key returned to ON, so turned key to start it, and then released just enough for starter to stop turning, and it runs.

Which indicates the ignition switch itself is bad, correct?

$15 for a replacement switch at O'Reilly's, but when I got there, this is what they had.



Don't let the photo fool you - the phone was at a slight angle - they are identical in size and diameter on the switch end.

But on the end where the lockset tumblers go (original on top)...



I know, it's like some cruel joke.
Obviously my lockset tumblers won't fit in there.
For $15, I was tempted to get it and try to pry it out and put it in my casing, but didn't seem like a great idea.

I can list quite a few places that DON'T have it, to include Rock Auto, Advance, Auto Zone, O'Reilly's, NAPA.

Any recommendations?

 

Don't condemn the switch yet ! Could be bad, could also be a bad balast resistor

I would do a compression test on the motor before starting it... Lost a chain on a 74/ 318 Had to replace the exhaust valves..

 

Before you get too wound up, has any wiring been changed? And check the brown bypass wire through the bulkhead. That is only one wire. It only goes one place........from the IGN2 terminal on the switch, through the bulkhead, to the coil + side of the ballast resistor.

YOU CAN EASILY RE-WIRE this if the the IGN2 part of the switch is actually bad. THIS IS UNLIKELY

The START circuit is a SEPARATE contact from the bypass (IGN2) If it is actually bad, you can "substitute" the IGN2 circuit with a diode, with an extra (Bosch) relay, or by changing your start relay to the later Jeep style.


I would ABSOLUTELY Cut those open (the new one first) and attempt to "combine." them.

But you should be able to check that switch easily. Start with an ohmeter or a test (continuity) lamp and if that shows "OK" then "rig" something to load the switch, like a stop / tail bulb or headlight.

Ignore the ground

In ACC BATT to ACC is only thing "made"

In "run" BATT to ACC and to IGN 1 is made

In "start" BATT to ACC and IGN 1 is COLD

In "start" BATT to IGN 2 and to ST(art) is made

 

1967-68
1969
1970-77

these are the interchanges on the ign switches

1969 is all by itself