Ok so i am trying to get my Duster started to sell faster and it is getting no power whats so ever to the car. I cant even jump the starter to even turn it over. Would the cables be corroded enough to cause this or is it something else?


*update* i cut and re-connected a terminal to possitive wire and can now jump the starter but still no power to cab.

 

As your opening the hood and if u look straight ahead to the right.
There might be a module bolted to the engine compartment.
It has like 2 wires connected to it and might be white.
That could be bad.

 

a bad ground can cause no power look for the block ground wires usually on the back of the engine head right side attached from there to the fire wall also there is a smaller ground wire from the main battery - cable that should go to the fender

 

This may be the problem there is only a ground wire going to the intake mani to the battery. And no wires to the firewall or one going to the fender.


*update* ok i have power to the cab in the form of a single light (not a stock one for sure) But this is with or without the ignition on. I also by accident found out that the box may be good as i can jump the starter on it by touching to parts together with pliers. This used to be a race car so maybe i need a new in-cab wire harness?

 

well you should make a couple of ground wires one from the head to the fire wall and one from the - battery post to the fender and see what happens your main battery ground is really for the starter not the chassis electrical
also reconnect that main ground to the front of the head get it off your intake
also some one else will chime in on this

 

The factory grounds were minimal, IE the battery was grounded to the block, and on the older cars, typically only about a no10 ran from the battery to the body.

I like to use a short "starter cable" (ring to ring) so say, a foot long, no4. Look at the front of the passenger head. THESE SAME bolt holes are unused in the rear of the left head. Get a short bolt, and hook the cable to the rear of the driver side head. Then ground the cable to one of the firewall studs for the master cylinder mount

You want the main battery cable grounded to the block, as that is where all the current is.

If the wiring is hacked up, it's anybody's guess

You have a wiring diagram?

 

No i dont have a wireing diagram for a 75 ive been meaning to buy one but between getting into shape for Basic Training and trying to get another car running its hecktic around here.



*update* i got a new ground strap and grounded to the body and still nothing. The wiring under the hood is all good now under the dash i have no idea.

 

There are "variously usable" diagrams over at MyMopar, but they are far from complete and correct for some years. They leave out many options

Here:

http://www.mymopar.com/index.php?pid=31

http://www.mymopar.com/index.php?pid=24

 

Would a bad voltage regulator do this also? And i also have a 4 pin Ignition Module but the plug is 5 pin would that matter?

 

Bad regulator will only cause a no charging situation, but a healthy battery should run the car for hours if you don't use lights, etc.

Here's the "deal" on 4/5 pin modules:

A 5 pin MUST have a 4 pin ballast resistor

A 4 pin only NEEDS a 2 pin ballast, but CAN be wired for and have a 4 pin ballast in place, it's simply that the extra wire goes nowhere

Also, you cannot tell by looking at a module, as many 4 pin modules actually have 5 physical pins. You must use an ohmeter to tell for sure.

Again, without knowing what may have been done to your wiring, it's impossible to answer.

If this was a factory wiring situation, the most likely cause(s) would be bad fuse link from the starter relay to the bulkhead connector, which is in the main battery feed, or...........

bad or disconnected connections at the ammeter, or bad ammeter.

Also you top no 1 suspect list should include the bulkhead connector.

 

Yea its all factory wiring. The guy i got under hood wireing from pulled it from a running car. I have the 4 pin ballast on it and 4 pin ignition module. I have a feeling i may need to get a new in cab harness and all.

 

I would start with checking for power on both sides of the fusable link going to the bulkhead plug & then cleaning the terminals at the bulkhead plug & check for power at the base of the steering column & ammeter , often the connections are loose or corroded at the ammeter & if the ammeter guage is bad there will be no power past that point .