(See diagram below) It is a hybrid of schematics from the D-318, and the Scout layout.

So... in the IH specs wire #1 is the resisted wire on the alt plug... it is generally solid wire, 72" long... and that does it... but specs read "...must be 8 - 50 amps resisted on all engines" ("ALL" = IH 'all'?... or ALL all?)

Anyway... this is the harness that was intact when I crashed... so it was working. I just tested the ohms... I am 5.6 ohms resisted.

And this does not run into the cab and tie to the factory (Scout) harness... it was running to the trigger post of the constant duty solenoid.

Any ideas? I am in total re-wire now.. so insight most appreciated.

(except for those that think my drawing skills suck....)

 

i found a very good diagram of the 5 pin box. i think your ballast resistor is not wired right. course you have things that a stock chrysler doesnt have. time to study wiring a lot. http://www.chargerr.com/Ignition/Ignition.htm

 

NOTE!!!! PLEASE READ!!! In the link above, the wiring for the ECU is shown "looking into" the front of the connector, while the OP is looking down on top of the box. That could be confusing. The one posted below shows the same perspective as the OP's diagram:

Additional:

The older 5 pin boxes must have a 4 pin resistor.

The newer 4 pin boxes CAN use EITHER a 2 or 4 pin resistor, it's simply that the second part of the resistor does nothing

You cannot tell a 4 or 5 pin box apart, always, because many replacement 4 pin boxes have 5 physical pins -- it's simply that the 5th pin is not hooked up.

In the diagram below, "eliminate" the left side of the resistor for a 4 pin box, or leave it wired --does not do anything on a 4 pin box, and if you ever plug an older 5 pin box in, the thing will still work!!

Not shown in the diagram below is the coil bypass (going to the "I" terminal of the starter solenoid) which goes to coil+

BE CERTAIN that the box is GROUNDED

CHECK the reluctor gap with a .008" (inches, not metric) brass feeler, available at O'Reallys

So far as the ballast backwards, NOTE that the ballast in the diagram below has a "U" shaped cutout on the bottom of the diagram. This indexes the resistor (actually 2 resistors in one box) so that the proper resistance goes to the coil. The LOWER resistance side of the two is what goes to the coil The way you have your diagram drawn, the "U" cutout should be on the left side in the diagram.

HERE is a 4 pin ballast:

http://www.mymopar.com/index.php?pid=115



SO far as your alternator wiring, the purpose of the resistance in the no1 connection is to replace the idiot lamp, and to protect the diode trio from faiure. You do not HAVE to use a resistor---you can use a diode in series like this:

You want the band of the diode towards the alternator plug. If you use a regulator (I don't like 'em) of a certain part no, this will become a "one wire" alternator.

http://www.tractorshed.com/gallery/uptest/a53080.jpg


What is the green thing at top left that says ? Scout BHC?

Also, I used to do as you--on my old 340 Mopar powered FJ-40, I used a continuous duty solenoid for all switched accessory feeds.

 

as all ways 440roadrunner is of great help. my computer skills are so low i cant post pics and such.

 

= Scout Bulk Head Connector