I'm trying to get my 68 Charger running 440BB. I haven't been able to start it. I had a fuel pump issue which I fixed this morning, but cannot try to start it until 24hrs. I keep running into problems. I was having problems with the dash panel not working so I figured out that the dimmer switch is bad. When I turn the key on, The amp meter shows -10, but I have not been able to start it yet, so I don't know if that is normal. I have all new parts in the fuel system. My fuel gauge was not working, so I disconnected the blue wire from the sending unit. I put my light tester probe in that end and grounded it. The light tester was blinking and the fuel guage needle went to 1/4 tank, which is about how much is in the tank. If the sending unit was bypassed, shouldn't the fuel guage go to full? Also the ground strap seems a little loose, but again-it is brand new, just like the rest of the fuel system. So after seeing the light blinking, when I crawled out from under the car I heard I tapping noise coming from the coil. The key was still on. When I put the light tester on the neg terminal on the battery and the ground on the coil the tapping got very faint. What's going on?? Is this car EVER going to start!!

 

Your fuel gauge test indicates that the instrument voltage limiter and the fuel gauge, AND the sender wire, are all probably OK and getting power. Turn off the key, clip the sender wire to ground, then go up and turn on the key. The gauge should shoot right up to full, but don't leave the key on longer than to make the test

I'd say the sender is the problem, but it would pay to GROUND the sender, even if temporarily with a clip lead, etc, before you condemn it

Starting, we need more details

What do you have for an ignition system? Does the starter crank the engine?

 

Details: The engine is not points and condenser. It is an original 440 BB out of a 1977 Chrysler New Yorker. The starter does crank the engine, but it won't fire up. I have all new parts for the fuel system and I have an extra fuel filter installed on the fuel line before the vapor separator.
Thanks for the post!

 

OK, when you crank the engine do you get spark? Pull the coil wire OUT of the coil, and use a probe, such as a clip lead/ screwdriver or your 12V test lamp, to check for spark at the coil. Do this USING THE KEY, not by jumpering the relay

 

I replaced the fuel pump and grounded the neg battery cable to the body. It started!! I don't hear the ticking noise in the coil anymore!
I'm still having problems with the gauges in the dash. By the way, the gauges are all original. With the key on, I bypassed the sending unit and hooked up a light tester. The light shows steady and bright UNTIL the fuel gauge starts moving, then the test light starts blinking. The fuel gauge only goes to 1/4 tank. I'm thinking there may be a problem with the gauge. I grounded the tester at 2 different spots.
Also, the oil pressure gauge goes right up all the way to 80 and the Alt gauge moves to -10. The temp gauge stays at 120, but it could be because I didn't leave the car run long enough to warm up. I don't have exhaust on it yet, just open headers.
Is there a way to test the gauge itself to see if it's bad? I know the dimmer switch is bad (also original part) from another test I did by bypassing the switch. Is there a ground behind the dash? I don't remember if there was or not. And I also painted the entire inside of the car, inside firewall & all. I don't remember anything being grounded to the inside firewall...WAIT...maybe the ground to the steering column is not making contact-I painted everything.
Thanks for the replies!!

 

While doing some testing on the car today, I had the key on for about 5 minutes and the coil started ticking again. I don't know what's going on! I have a good ground on the block & body. I'm not sure why it's doing this.