68 Dart 270

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Old Jul 2, 2011 | 06:37 PM
  #1  
68dodgedart's Avatar
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From: Mexico, NY
68 Dart 270

So ive got a 68 Dart 270. As of about 2 days ago, the key stopped working to start the car. The car does turn on, all features still work as if it was turned on. Just does not do anything when i turn the key to start the motor. Starter is new and works great, I can jump the starter and it runs great.

Anyone have ideas? I'd like to get this fixed so it doesn't look like i am stealing my car every time i leave work ;-)

Also does anyone know if there is an easy way to replace the instrument panel bulbs? So far the only way I have found is dropping the steering wheel column down and removing most of the dash, i dont want to do that..

Thanks in advance!!
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Old Jul 2, 2011 | 07:06 PM
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Silverick's Avatar
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From: San Francisco, CA
Is the car an automatic? If it is.... Will it start with the shifter in neutral? Have you tried holding the shifter "UP" into the PARK detent?
It could be a linkage adjustment or the neutral safety switch.

As far as the bulbs... No advice except for, be careful with all of the old wiring!
Good luck and welcome to the forum! Rick
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Old Jul 2, 2011 | 07:51 PM
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dodgenut7's Avatar
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From: green springs ohio
i think silverick is right about the neutral safety switch as far as the dash bulbs i lay on my back on the floor with a flash light and reach right up there and change them it works easy mine is a 69 dart
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Old Jul 2, 2011 | 09:00 PM
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TVLynn's Avatar
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If I remember right the neutral switch is on the steering column. Check that first. Later models had a three wire switch mounted on the trans for reverse lights and neutral switch combo
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Old Jul 27, 2011 | 01:09 PM
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R/T Dave's Avatar
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Sounds like either the neutral safety switch or starter solenoid are bad.
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Old Jul 27, 2011 | 01:22 PM
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I believe your NSS is on the transmission. I don't remember if they went to three terminal then or not. My 67 is on the transmission, is single terminal

Here's how they work. On your firewall you have a starter relay that looks something like this:



The big stud is a junction for battery connections as well as one of the relay contacts

The other "square" terminal is the other relay contact, and goes down to the S solenoid terminal on your starter solenoid

The two push on terminals are the relay coil

One should be "hot from the key" when the key is twisted to start.

The other terminal is GROUNDED by the neutral safety switch when in neutral or park.

So take your test lamp, and probe the two push on connectors. If they are both "hot" when twisting the key, the NSS is not making contact, or there is something wrong with the shift linkage, or something askew inside the transmission

IF this is the case, pull one "push on" off and again probe both wires when twisting the key to start. When you find the hot one, normally yellow, put it back on the start relay.

Take a clip lead and ground the opposide exposed push on relay terminal. The car should now crank, but IN ANY GEAR

If you hear the relay click but no start, it could be the relay, or the starter or wiring.

You said "you can jump the starter" are you doing so AT THE RELAY or AT THE STARTER?

This little tidbit is important, because the wire from the relay to the starter could be bad. The originals were molded together down at the starter, and it was not uncommon for engine vibration to break that wire.

These are easy
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Old Sep 15, 2011 | 06:45 PM
  #7  
66dart's Avatar
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I just had the same problem on my 66 yesterday it was the starter relay 13 bucks and autozone even had it in stock
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