No spark on '67 Cuda - straight 6
 

Hi all,

I'm not getting any spark on my 225 straight 6. Put a new ignition coil in but still no sparks. Ground off of coil is good. Any ideas?

Thank you,

Jay

The ground off the coil.... The -... Dose not go to ground.... It goes to the points inside the distributor.... :)

Sorry; that's what I meant. I checked the ground wire back into the distributor and it is solid and intact. Is there a switch or resistor in-line from the battery? I have ordered a Service Manual but it won't be here for a week. I just took ownership of this car. Lots to do.

Thanks Bob.

Jay

If you use a test light...
1 With the key in the run position... Do you have voltage at the + ?????
2 When you crank the engine over... Do you have a pulse on the - ?????

I tested, (with my Ohmeter), with the key in the "run" position and only got about 3 volts. I need to double-check while cranking. Will do so in the morning - thank you kindly for your help!

Jay

Keep us posted... :)

Positive + on coil to chassis/battery ground - , to check voltage. Check your battery voltage first, then voltage into ballast resistor, then out of ballast resistor to coil + with key on and then cranking, report back and we'll get this.

I found the ballast resistor (I believe) on the drivers' side of the firewall. Will test tomorrow.

Did think it interesting that - as I tried to confirm which wire is the one that goes to the pos terminal of the coil, I tested for continuity on the two connectors on the ballast resistor (the one blue wire on the pos of coil goes into a wiring harness that dumps out 4 wires at resistor). One connector had 0 resistance, (so I figure one of the 2 wires into that connector is the one going to the pos of coil - it was the one on the right, as I faced the resistor standing in front of car). Oddly, the other connector, connected on the left side of the resistor, had a tiny bit of resistance... wouldn't have thought there'd be any. Wondering if there's a short inside the wiring harness.

The resistor itself had 0 resistance.

Will do the other tests in the morning testing for voltage off battery, at resistor, and so on down the line.

Very helpful!!! Thank you.

I GOT IT RUNNING!!!!

Not sure how. I took the ballast resister, starter relay and voltage regulator out - wire brushed em' up nice and clean, and put em' back. Tested the voltage as Dan/Coronet asked:

Voltage at battery = 12
Voltage at "in" of ballast resistor = 10
Voltage at "out" of ballast = 7
Voltage at pos on coil on 'run' = 5.5
same on 'crank' = about 10... and then I heard the engine sputter.

I think I must've adjusted a wire connector on one of these components and all of a sudden everything came together. She's running SMOOTH as can be. Unreal. Hasn't run in 20 years.

Gotta attend to the brakes. No pressure on pedal. Added brake fluid and need to see if it's leaking out. Do these drum brakes tend to "cease up" if they haven't moved in 20 years? I'm good with rotors and calipers, dunno on drums. Then I gotta swap out the gas tank, but, after that ...it's on to cosmetics!!!!

Thanks all!!!!!!!! Very excited.

Jay

More than likely you will need to rebuild the brakes hydraulic system In its entirety, master cylinder, wheel cylinders, hoses and lines. At this point you should put new pads on because they degradate over time.
I've never had luck with brakes on the cheap.

That's part of the problem we where looking for... Glad you got it running....
As for the rest of the stuff... If its been sitting for 20 years... throw it all out and out in new stuff. Better safe, than sorry... I say..

Thanks Bob.

Hey, as I'm about to also jack up the front end to start digging into the front "torsion bar" suspension (first time for me), have you seen any good DIY links or vids? I assume, like above, I'm going to have to put "all new components" in there, ($260-$300'ish in parts). I didn't know if sometimes a certain part tends to go south and I only will need to replace that. Both front wheels are tipping "in" at the top and the engine is 4" off the ground.

Thank you,

Jay

There are some good vids out on the stuff...
Check the torsion bar mounts... Might be rotted or maybe someone just loosened them up...

Sadly, I just jacked up the front end, got the wheels off, and can see that the frame is ...not good. Rotted forward of the upper/lower control arms. And the base/mount of the torsion bar - the hex end furthest back - is 'okay' right at the hex end itself, but, ...rot nearby. I have a feeling this car may not be worth saving. The rear quarters and front fenders etc. at the base are rusted/rotted. Floor is not great behind passenger seat...

Not sure how other people decide whether to scrap a car or invest in it.

Rust is common under the battery and the transmission crossmember, I haven't looked but I'd bet the parts are available new to repair.

Thanks Iowan. I'll try to get some pictures up here, but, wondering just how much would need to be done to install new parts for what's rotted. Definitely the forward section of the frame, and the floor... Just to do the crossmember piece would, I assume, require pulling the engine. At least is a Slant-6!!!