No spark on '67 Cuda - straight 6
#1
No spark on '67 Cuda - straight 6
Hi all,
I'm not getting any spark on my 225 straight 6. Put a new ignition coil in but still no sparks. Ground off of coil is good. Any ideas?
Thank you,
Jay
I'm not getting any spark on my 225 straight 6. Put a new ignition coil in but still no sparks. Ground off of coil is good. Any ideas?
Thank you,
Jay
#3
Sorry; that's what I meant. I checked the ground wire back into the distributor and it is solid and intact. Is there a switch or resistor in-line from the battery? I have ordered a Service Manual but it won't be here for a week. I just took ownership of this car. Lots to do.
Thanks Bob.
Jay
Thanks Bob.
Jay
#5
I tested, (with my Ohmeter), with the key in the "run" position and only got about 3 volts. I need to double-check while cranking. Will do so in the morning - thank you kindly for your help!
Jay
Jay
#7
So, with ammeter/ohm-meter connected to ignition coil pos to pos and neg to neg, with key to “on” I read 2 or 3 volts. Cranking I read 4, but no pulse.
Was as I supposed to connect the ohmmeter wires differently for “cranking” test?
Was as I supposed to connect the ohmmeter wires differently for “cranking” test?
#8
Mopar Lover
Positive + on coil to chassis/battery ground - , to check voltage. Check your battery voltage first, then voltage into ballast resistor, then out of ballast resistor to coil + with key on and then cranking, report back and we'll get this.
#10
I found the ballast resistor (I believe) on the drivers' side of the firewall. Will test tomorrow.
Did think it interesting that - as I tried to confirm which wire is the one that goes to the pos terminal of the coil, I tested for continuity on the two connectors on the ballast resistor (the one blue wire on the pos of coil goes into a wiring harness that dumps out 4 wires at resistor). One connector had 0 resistance, (so I figure one of the 2 wires into that connector is the one going to the pos of coil - it was the one on the right, as I faced the resistor standing in front of car). Oddly, the other connector, connected on the left side of the resistor, had a tiny bit of resistance... wouldn't have thought there'd be any. Wondering if there's a short inside the wiring harness.
The resistor itself had 0 resistance.
Will do the other tests in the morning testing for voltage off battery, at resistor, and so on down the line.
Did think it interesting that - as I tried to confirm which wire is the one that goes to the pos terminal of the coil, I tested for continuity on the two connectors on the ballast resistor (the one blue wire on the pos of coil goes into a wiring harness that dumps out 4 wires at resistor). One connector had 0 resistance, (so I figure one of the 2 wires into that connector is the one going to the pos of coil - it was the one on the right, as I faced the resistor standing in front of car). Oddly, the other connector, connected on the left side of the resistor, had a tiny bit of resistance... wouldn't have thought there'd be any. Wondering if there's a short inside the wiring harness.
The resistor itself had 0 resistance.
Will do the other tests in the morning testing for voltage off battery, at resistor, and so on down the line.
#12
#13
I GOT IT RUNNING!!!!
Not sure how. I took the ballast resister, starter relay and voltage regulator out - wire brushed em' up nice and clean, and put em' back. Tested the voltage as Dan/Coronet asked:
Voltage at battery = 12
Voltage at "in" of ballast resistor = 10
Voltage at "out" of ballast = 7
Voltage at pos on coil on 'run' = 5.5
same on 'crank' = about 10... and then I heard the engine sputter.
I think I must've adjusted a wire connector on one of these components and all of a sudden everything came together. She's running SMOOTH as can be. Unreal. Hasn't run in 20 years.
Gotta attend to the brakes. No pressure on pedal. Added brake fluid and need to see if it's leaking out. Do these drum brakes tend to "cease up" if they haven't moved in 20 years? I'm good with rotors and calipers, dunno on drums. Then I gotta swap out the gas tank, but, after that ...it's on to cosmetics!!!!
Thanks all!!!!!!!! Very excited.
Jay
Not sure how. I took the ballast resister, starter relay and voltage regulator out - wire brushed em' up nice and clean, and put em' back. Tested the voltage as Dan/Coronet asked:
Voltage at battery = 12
Voltage at "in" of ballast resistor = 10
Voltage at "out" of ballast = 7
Voltage at pos on coil on 'run' = 5.5
same on 'crank' = about 10... and then I heard the engine sputter.
I think I must've adjusted a wire connector on one of these components and all of a sudden everything came together. She's running SMOOTH as can be. Unreal. Hasn't run in 20 years.
Gotta attend to the brakes. No pressure on pedal. Added brake fluid and need to see if it's leaking out. Do these drum brakes tend to "cease up" if they haven't moved in 20 years? I'm good with rotors and calipers, dunno on drums. Then I gotta swap out the gas tank, but, after that ...it's on to cosmetics!!!!
Thanks all!!!!!!!! Very excited.
Jay
#14
Super Moderator
More than likely you will need to rebuild the brakes hydraulic system In its entirety, master cylinder, wheel cylinders, hoses and lines. At this point you should put new pads on because they degradate over time.
I've never had luck with brakes on the cheap.
I've never had luck with brakes on the cheap.
#15
Mopar Lover
That's part of the problem we where looking for... Glad you got it running....
As for the rest of the stuff... If its been sitting for 20 years... throw it all out and out in new stuff. Better safe, than sorry... I say..
As for the rest of the stuff... If its been sitting for 20 years... throw it all out and out in new stuff. Better safe, than sorry... I say..
#16
Hey, as I'm about to also jack up the front end to start digging into the front "torsion bar" suspension (first time for me), have you seen any good DIY links or vids? I assume, like above, I'm going to have to put "all new components" in there, ($260-$300'ish in parts). I didn't know if sometimes a certain part tends to go south and I only will need to replace that. Both front wheels are tipping "in" at the top and the engine is 4" off the ground.
Thank you,
Jay
#18
Not sure how other people decide whether to scrap a car or invest in it.
#19
Super Moderator
Rust is common under the battery and the transmission crossmember, I haven't looked but I'd bet the parts are available new to repair.
#20
Thanks Iowan. I'll try to get some pictures up here, but, wondering just how much would need to be done to install new parts for what's rotted. Definitely the forward section of the frame, and the floor... Just to do the crossmember piece would, I assume, require pulling the engine. At least is a Slant-6!!!
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post