Jbs6891

Ok guys I really need help here. As stated in the title, its an 83' Ram 4x4 with the 318 in it. When i bought it (mind you this was day 1) the thing would barely run. It would fall on its face. When idling it would idle semi-okay and then stall. So when i brought it home it had an aftermarket Holley 4-Barrel carb on it with an Edelbrock intake manifold. I pulled the carb and the 2 rear barrels were seized. They would not open. So I got a parts truck. Its an 85' ram with a 318. The only difference is it as well had a rebuilt holley 2-barrel carb on it. Also it has the setup for an early version of emmission bs. So I put the intake manifold and carb straight on my good truck. However, I got rid of the EGR valve and plated it off on the manifold. I also changed plugs and wires and cap and rotor as well as adjusted timing since it was out 20 degrees. NOW, the truck will idle. As soon as its put in gear and has a load on it to move, it falls on its face and stalls. It will not move. Ive tried everything and anything to fix it im getting frustrated. I had to install the canister that mounts on the fender well. Im not sure if its missing vaccum lines or if im missing something. HELP PLEASE.

TVLynn

Dig up a vacuum diagram you are missing something

Jbs6891

Ok. Here is the update, i talked to some guys and they said get rid of as much emisson stuff possible. so i removed the egr valve and plated it on the manifold. I also removed the canister and capped off the port in the middle at the bottom of the carb as well as a couple other ports. and it runs a little better. So now what needs done? would it be better if i posted some pics of what i got going on under the hood

Coronet 500

Welcome.

My first questions before answers are do you know if fuel bowl is full and does the accelerator pump squirt fuel when throttle is opened?

Do you know what your initial and total timing are, at what rpm without vacuum advanced hooked up?

440roadrunner

"I have not kept up" with details of the "something (eighties). DOES THIS (or did it) have lean burn? Look in your distributor. Two pickups or one? "Spring" the rotor. If you cannot move the rotor CW and have it "spring" back, you have a locked mechanical advance, and it might be rusted up stuck, or it might "not have one" AKA "lean burn."

Jbs6891

Hello all thank you for your help. @ coronet500, it is for sure squirting fuel on acceleration. As far as timing I believe its +4 deg. right now. it was dead on and jumped.


@ 440roadrunner, I have not yet checked the rotor yet for that. That is a new tip for my toolbox I will certainly try today. I am also thinking instead of messing with the coil just taking the entire distributor out of the parts truck (since I physically drove the parts truck and know it runs like a champ). I did however do an ether test on the intake manifold and it is sealed up tight. I also eliminated the canister, as stated before the EGR valve and I believe it was the pvc valve. whatever the tiny half dollar size valve is that was mounted on the fender as well. Since then It is running better. But still wants to fall on its face. So im starting to believe its the pick-up coil or like you said the advance could be locked up. I will post an update today. Thanks guys

Coronet 500

The 20 degrees off and your term "jumped" has me thinking that cam timing may be off and the previous owner dialed in that much advanced to keep it running.

I would take a wrench on the crankshaft or use the belt to turn it back and forth, until you feel resistance. This will show any slack in the timing chain. The resistance you will feel is the harder to turn valve train cam and springs.

A little bit back and forth like 5 degrees is OK 10-15 degrees not good.

Jbs6891

I will try that as well. As far as the distributor, i seen what he meant with the spring back. I took the entire distributor off of the parts truck and it was solid. When you turn the rotor it springs back into position. I took the distributor off the good truck, and it spun freely all the way around. There is no spring back. And the pick up coil neg wire has a bulge in it such as it was rubbing on something. Im taking it the distributor is bad afterall?

Jbs6891

My next question is, you said to spin the rotor clockwise to get it to spring. Mine springs when turned counter clockwise. Also, is the metal tab on the coil supposed to touch the gear looking thing or is it supposed to be away from it. Because the one off the parts truck touches the metal tab. The one off the good truck is about 1/16 away from it. Also, i just noticed the distributor in the parts truck has 2 packs with metal tabs. The one off the parts truck has 1. Is this by chance the different distributors for a 2 and 4 barrel setup? Please remember ive only worked on fuel injection lol This is a whole new ballgame to me.

Coronet 500

I'm a little confused by your description. The dual pick ups with mechanical advance "spring back" is start/run distributor off of what, can't remember, not desirable.

The single pick up is a lean burn or EFI distributor, not desirable.

The tab and gear thing should have an .008" air gap.

You could probably use the dual pick up as a single if that is the electronic ignition system you have in the truck now.

I'm starting to think you've got "stick in what ever I got to make it run" distributors.

440roadrunner

If you are talking about 2 electronic pickups THAT IS a lean burn distributor

Like this

Coronet 500

Here is the Lean Burn, one pick-up no mechanical advance.

http://www.allpar.com/mopar/lean-burn.html