i recently bought a 1978 dodge w200 power wagon it has the full time 4x4 front axle and transfer case is there anyway to swap in a part time system or convert the current with out alot of money

 

It depends on what you have for a tranny and t-case. If you have a 727 automatic, then you can probably swap out what you have to a NP208 passenger side drop, or a np203, or even a np205. You'll have to find out what your spline count is on the output shaft of the tranny as they vary depending on the tranny/t-case combo.

For the front axle, once you get the t-case situated, you can then install a set of manual locking hubs and you'll be fine.

 

ok thanks i was trying to climb a steep hill the other day and had it in lo not lo lock and it seemed like the front wheels quit pulling and the back tires started spinning is that right? and would i have to put it in lo lock to get power front and back

 

You are correct.

 

could i put locking hubs on the current axle with changing anything or would that cause problems bc my cousinhad a 74? chevy fulltime 4x4 and he pot locking hubs on it and the transfer case would only send power to the front wheels and it would just set there and spin until u lock them in and the back wheels wouldnt move at all

 

and is there any way to put a nwer model seat in this truck i want one with a fold down center console

 

If you put manual locking hubs in teh front end, you need to keep them locked all the time, otherwise you can (and probably will) burn out your t-case. I'd leave the automatic hubs in there till the time comes when you can swap t-cases.

As far as the seats go, I'm not aware of any direct bolt in. If you can make up or have someone make up a set of brackets, you can bolt in almost anything then.

 

ok thank u one more question lol my gearing is to high ? at 50mph the motor is screaming and the top safe speed is about 65 it shift threw all gears (automatic) before 25mph what could i do to change my gearing i know a different size tire would help but not enough would it be easier to change the gear ratio or the axles ? and sorry about all the questions and thanks for the help

 

Don't worry about the questions, that's why we are here.

Being a 78 Dodge with an auto (727), I'd be willing to bet that the transmission is a non-lockup unit. There are OD units that can be adapted to fit your application. You can also swap the 727 out for a hydralic OD unit like the 518A or 618A found in the late 80s/early 90s trucks. Those transmissions also will have either a NP208 or NP203 t-case which both are part time.

You can regear your axles to a numberically lower ratio and/or install taller tires. You'll have to figure out what you have for gearing now and the tire size. Post up what youfind and we can help you through it.

 

i looked for the tag but its rusted off if i could find a set of something like 3.73 axles and not have to change my transerfer case that would be great bc i dont have alot of money right now to do a full parttime swap and the od units would be expensive would my current transfer case bolt up and use the same drive shafts if i use a 518A or 618A and what would cause this truck to smoke everynow and then sometimes only alittle and sometimes a cloud when in park and idleing and giving it gas but not smoke at all going down the road

 

also it would have a dana 60 rear and dana 44 front right

 

Being a 78 3/4 ton truck yes you will have a D44 front and full floating D60 rear. Most likely you will have either 3.73 or 4.10 gears (you can either pull the cover and count the teeth, read the ring gear or do the count the spinning tire trick to figure out what you have). The numbercially lowest gear that you can go with that D60 is to 3.54, the case just is not designed to handle a numbercially lower ratio. You'll only find the 3.54 gears in the F*rd trucks too. You need to find out what ratio you have though first. What size tires are you running?

As for the t-case and tranny.......

You will probably need new drive shafts with the tranny swap unless you pull the drive shafts from the donar vehicle that is set up just like yours (reg cab/long bed), those you may be able to use. You'll have to count the input spline of your current case to figure out if it will bolt up to the back side of the 518A/618A tranny. Your best bet (and easiest) would be to buy a 518A/618A with the orginal t-case still bolted to it. Getting a driveshaft cut down/lengthened and rebalanced is not that much. Any way that you can get some pictures of the t-case (and some of the truck overall)? That will help me to identify what you have, plus I love seeing older dodge trucks.

 

how do i post pictures im currently trying to sell or trade it bc of the gearing im going to texas and it would be a long trip at 65 and i think it might be to much on the engine

 

do u think 1600 would be a good price

 

and what about a dana 80 ratio could it and a dana 44 be used

 

oh and tires are 225/75/16 trail cutters i know brand doesnt matter but i really like these tires lol

 

Follow the instructions on the link but you'll basically need to start a photobucket account (free) and then post the last of the four codes for the picture.

https://moparforums.com/forums/f62/p...pictures-2128/

 

I'd need to see pictures to give you an idea but depending on how much rust there is, you may be able to get that or more.

The Dana 80 can be geared as numbercially low as 3.31:1 and so can the Dana 44. I doubt you'll find a Dana 80 with that ratio in it already. Probably more like 3.73-4.56 as most are used in tow rigs and diesels.

That is only a 29" tall tire. There is really no reason why you can't be running a 31" tall tire stock or a set of 235/85/16 tires (~32" tall). The wheel weels are rather large but once again, pics will help me help you determine that.

 

what about 245/75/16 would that help any also what causes hard starting or cranking

 

also why is the gas tank building pressure everytime i put gas in my truck it has a good bit of air pressure behind the gas cap i bought a new cap thinking that was it but it still does it could i have a vent hose plugged and did my 78 powerwagon come factory with a catylitic convertor

 

The 245/75/16 tires are ~1" taller so they will help out a little with lowering the RPMs while on the highway. They will cause your speedo to be off slightly too, maybe 5-10%.

Hard starting and hard cranking are two different items though. Which one do you have or do you have both?

As far as hard starting (motor turning over fast just not starting), that could be corrosion build up on the battery terminals or cable ends causing improper grounding, carb may need to be cleaned, corrosion build up in the dristributor cap, spark splugs and/or wires are wearing out.

As far as hard cranking (the motor turning over slow causing it take longer to start), then it could be your battery is old, starter is wearing out, cables have corrosion build up on the ends or even in the casing of the wiring causing a bad ground for your starter.

You could have a vent tube that is plugged causing the tank to build pressure for the gas. As far as the cat goes, 1978 was one of those years where they were installing them in some vehicles but not all. If your vehicle complies with Cali emissions (has the sticker) then it probably came with one. If not, you can always install one anyways or just leave it out. Having one in there will actually help your vehicle to not have that gas smell that some vehicles have.

 

hard cranking it cranks over slow and there is no cali stickers the reason i ask was im moving to texas and they do a inspection yearly but i think the year would make it to where i dont have to and i will check the vent hose also what causes the speedometer to jump i have had other vehicles do this but not nearly as bad some times it does a full spin and the other day it broke the needle off

 

Hard cranking sounds like it could be a dieing battery, corroded cables, corroded mounting surface between the starter and tranny, bad grounding system. I would inspect the cables first and replace any that look like they have some corrosion and clean up any/all corrosion on the battery terminals. I would also install a 10 gauge grounding cable from the negative battery terminal to one of the mounting bolts of the starter. This will help with it. If you still have issues, pull the starter and get it tested.

You'll have to check out what Texas has for inspection laws regarding your truck. I can't help you with that. I doubt it came with a cat though.

 

You've got to post up some pics of this truck too. I love the older Dodge Power Wagons!

 

http://s1181.photobucket.com/albums/x435/dodge_dudetx/ it was the starter it just went out on me today heres some pictures its all i hae right now should have more later

 

also is the tool box in the bed a rare option

 

I had a 78 D200 (2wd) that was green that looked just like that minus the box. That is one awesome feature! I've never seen or even read about that. You've got a great looking truck.

When you install the new starter, inspect the cables and replace them if they look a little worn/corroded. Also add that grounding wire like I mentioned before, you'll notice a difference. Is there a grounding cable that goes from the block or motor mount to the negative post on the battery?

 

thanks it is a good truck the tool box doesnt have a door but im going to get a thick peice of aluminum and try to bend it with the body curve and pop rivit hinges on itand maybe some hood pins to hold it shut but it does have a ground cable from the battery to the block and i replaced that cable and the one from positive to the starter relay thinking that was my problem but i have a small battery in it 500 something cranking amps and it runs down quick then when i charged it all the starter would do is click

 

Install a grounding cable to one of the mounting bolts on the starter and you'll see a difference. You really should install a larger battery as well, something between 600-700 CCA.

 

great news put a new starter on it and it fires up fast now makes me happy lol