Hello, My 1970 dodge charger has the 1975 4 barrel 440 in it from the ramcharger. I have had a lot of bad luck with this car. It was running when I bought it but when I trailered it back to indiana it wouldnt fire. I replaced the ignition coil, pick up coil, reluctor, ballast resistor and battery. I believe it is a ground that is causing this car not to fire up. So I would like you guys to help me out. On the ignition control module should there be any kind of ground wire on that? Also if you guys could post up engine pictures I would gladly appreciate it or any reasons why it wont fire up.

 

Not to the module it self- grounded thru the body mounting, easy to add another ground . But The engine should be grounded to the frame

First do you have 12 volts at the coil ?

 

Do you have spark and if so, how strong does it look? what condition are the plugs and wires in?

 

Okay I need you guys to help me square this thing away. Awnser these questions straight as can be(to the point). I replaced ignition coil, ballast resistor, pick up coil, reluctor, ignition control module and neutral safety switch.

If car is cranking but not firing Starter is obviously good right?

If car is not cranking at key could it be the starter relay?

What other things could cause it not to start at the key?

Could somebody tell me what all the main grounds are at?

 

If car is cranking but not firing Starter is obviously good right? YES

If car is not cranking at key could it be the starter relay? Yes

What other things could cause it not to start at the key? Could be the starter, relay, wiring, ignition switch or poor grounding

Could somebody tell me what all the main grounds are at? Should be a ground cable from the negative terminal to the from (may be 10-14 gauge wire) and a 2-4 gauge wire to the block.

You have fuel getting to the carb right (are the plugs wet with gas?)? Do you have 12v at the coil? When it ran, was it smooth or rough?

 

To make the engine run remove + wire from coil and make safe. Add wire to + on coil and touch to + on battery while friend is cranking engine over with key. Don't let it run too long this way as it will overheat coil.

This will not solve your problem but will show if your getting spark and if it starts that you do have fuel. If no starting of engine and you have spark at the plug look for a fuel delivery issue.

 

Not true, my friend. What you are trying to do here is eliminate the wiring as a problem. In order to do that you

DO indeed add a wire from coil + to battery, but you LEAVE the other wiring present. Otherwise, the ECU may not get power


I told you how to troubleshoot the starter relay over at "B Bodies."

It would be WISE as a precaution to remove the ECU, scrape clean the mounting flanges and remount using star lock nuts, IE make SURE the box is actually grounded. It would not hurt, just to make sure, to add no 10 jumper grounds from the block, to the ECU and maybe even the regulator.

 

ECU should receive power from ignition switch, not asked to disconnect. I think you have the wrong guy regarding a start relay, but thanks.

 

Well look, the only reason to suggest your test is in case the ignition is not getting voltage from the ignition switch. If the ballast is bad, normally the car will fire and die.

So if the ignition is NOT getting power from the ignition harness, and you are trying to eliminate what is / what's not, then hooking power to the coil as you suggest IE disconnecting the ECU, is still going to result in "no fire."

 

I was thinking Dominic needed a boost in motivation just to here the engine run as the frustration level was clear. I read the whole story on B-Body and my suggestion was given maybe three times.

To Dominic if you want help to get this engine running, you must try each suggestion then give result back as quickly as you can so the next step can be taken in the process of elimination.

You have access to some very talented people regarding automotive electrical systems, none more than 440roadrunner, USE THEM.