So I recently picked up a complete, original 1972 D100 shortbed with the 225 slant 6 and an auto as a project truck for $75. She is gonna need some body work in a couple spots but surprisingly isn't bad for what i paid for her. I've been doing alot of research lately but can't seem to find exactly what I'm looking for so here we go.

I have a GREAT running 400/727 combo out of a 77 Cordoba sitting in the shop that I've been thinking of slapping in this thing but days of Google searching hasn't yielded much results. What all is involved in a swap like this? Any other motor like a 318, 360 or 440 be a more viable option? Any tips/tricks? I've heard just motor mounts are needed to get it into the truck, had someone tell me I would need a different oil pan as well for clearance etc. Needing to be schooled by you Mopar guys that have done the /6 to v8 swaps.

I'm looking forward to digging into this thing and any help/insight is much appreciated. If you guys got any questions let me know and I'll answer the best I can!

 

Welcome
You need motor mounts and brackets and an oil pan with a pickup.

 

X2 on the mounts, oil pan and pickup. You may need to move the trans cross member as well depending on where the mount lands. A set of exhaust manifolds or headers and a BB radiator for a truck as well.

Dodge put the 440 in trucks up till ~78 so you shouldn't have any issues finding/getting parts.

Make sure to post up some pics!

 

I have a '78 1/2 ton that was a /6 originally that now has a 440. It really was as easy as everyone is saying with the headders being the most expensive part of the swap if I remember correctly. All parts to do the job correctly aren't too hard to come by. Good luck

 

I've never heard of having to move the crossmember in any Mopar "bolt in" swap which is what this is. Dodge pu's have come with B / RB engines for a very long time.

 

Perfect guys thanks! I'm trying to get as much info as I can before I go all in on this thing. My goals for the truck are gonna be to remove the bed/cab, motor/trans etc and get it down to a rolling chassis and do a frame up mild restoration with a B/RB swap. It will probably take some time, and alot of $ but all labor will be done by me and the end result should be a nice, fun, solid tire burning play truck.

 

Like the sound of that!

 

I know the trucks came with the B/RB motors, I was thinking more along the line of what the trans comes out of that the OP may be using. There should be multiple mounting holes that will allow for an easy drop in swap.

 

Probably the easiest way to do the swap is with a motor plate with doughnut mounts. It's much easier than trying to weld mount bases in and maintain the correct geometry for the engine. There are some mounting issues with the transmission mounts as far as distance for the bolt holes but you may get lucky and hit it right on. They will determine where the front mounts attach. If you take the cab off be aware that the position of the engine in relation to the firewall is very important as is the size of the tunnel. Too far back and your bitched royal, to far forward and you'll be cutting a big cooling hole in the rad. Best thing is to set the engine without it being permanent. You may need a new rad depending on the inlet side of the pump housing - something to keep in mind - 400's are on the right side usually. Your front suspension may sag due to the increased weight of the big block requiring new support springs or torsion bars. Hope your not using the emission crap that came with the 77 or the engine will be quite eneamic as it was back in the day. Might as well keep the six compared to an "emissioned" 400. Oil pan could be an issue depending on the sump position - front,rear or center - you should compare both. Most of what you need to know will be discovered when you commence and I'm sure you will make the necessary mods. Good luck. Oh, keep in mind that the engine may sit a few inches off center to the right, somethig Chrysler was famous for.