Cordoba Pics
#121
Mopar Lover
Use 80w-90 GL-5 gear lubricant.
Not sure about the capacity but you just fill it till it just starts to trickle out of the fill hole. {sitting level of course}. (2+ quarts ??)
You gotta use the additive if you have a sure-grip.
Not sure about the capacity but you just fill it till it just starts to trickle out of the fill hole. {sitting level of course}. (2+ quarts ??)
You gotta use the additive if you have a sure-grip.
#124
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Thanks man, I love the way it looks, but not the way it's running at the moment. I am rerunning the fuel lines as it seems to be vaporizing the fuel before the carb. Once I figure it all out will post some new pics and what I found.
#125
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Wow, coming up on a year, sorry for lack of info here, this should make up for some of it.
Looks like the last thing I posted was the vaporizing fuel, which it was doing prior to the fuel bowl. The old steel line ran up parallel to the front of the car and over the cheapo Summit headers that I had wrapped. I ran a new braided line to the front of the engine, up and then back to the carb, as well as shoving the filter in the little space between the line from the tank to the larger fuel pump I got off someone on here. This fixed that issue and the engine would now run and stay running.
However shortly after this I took the car home from my buddy's part store as he needed the space and was becoming a Napa. On the ride home maybe 20-25 min I boiled the power steering fluid out, once again due to the cheapo headers. So I believe the next thing I did was to get a set of Schumacher Headers with the ceramic coating. They were a breeze to install, I installed them from the top and didn't have to mess with anything on the install, unlike before where the starter and steering shaft had to be removed. These Tri-Y headers are a few inched shorter so I drove it over to the local exhaust shop 2 miles away to extend. Had him fix that as well as the hack job the place before did with the dual exhaust I had replaced, they only had one set of hangers the length of the car.
So by this point in time the power steering was not boiling over, the engine no longer stalled, and you could listen to what the engine was doing. So I thought it was ready to tune, but I was mistaken, the engine was still running hot, not as much as before with the old headers but enough for concern as the outside temperature should have been cooling it. So I went for an aluminum radiator from be-cool as I couldn't find any 4 core copper ones. However to get one with the inlet outlet on the proper side it would be a custom job, and cost well over 2k, and if I went with their package it would have been about 1k. So I went with a flexalite electric fan and had to make a custom house to move the inlet from passenger side to driver side and route it around the air conditioner. Looks pretty decent will get some pictures up here if I get some time this weekend. Also had to build a bracket for it to fit in the large space, all brackets they made were for smaller spaces.
I have also put the filter top on the carb as well as it had been sitting in the box since I bought it before my last post on here. Also bought a digital timing light with the rpms as no one knew what the gauge I was looking for was so I went with that one from Craftsman.
So I now had a bogging issue with the engine and figured out that it was too advanced, now that I had the new timing light, not tuned where I want it yet but much much closer. Also need to rerun the electric fan line to an ignition point, thought I had it on one where the starter hooked to on the firewall, but the fan stays on when turned off, and that switch is now acting funny so I have to replace that too. Should have had it done already but the weather's been bad and the last time I had it out the glass in the t-top started separating from the frame again, so I figured that I would fix it this time as the shop that had done it had messed it up. Last thing is that there still is a short in the rear drivers side tail light thinking it could be the ground, but lack of time hinders the trial phase of fixing the issue, lots of theory behind it while I sit at work.
Looks like the last thing I posted was the vaporizing fuel, which it was doing prior to the fuel bowl. The old steel line ran up parallel to the front of the car and over the cheapo Summit headers that I had wrapped. I ran a new braided line to the front of the engine, up and then back to the carb, as well as shoving the filter in the little space between the line from the tank to the larger fuel pump I got off someone on here. This fixed that issue and the engine would now run and stay running.
However shortly after this I took the car home from my buddy's part store as he needed the space and was becoming a Napa. On the ride home maybe 20-25 min I boiled the power steering fluid out, once again due to the cheapo headers. So I believe the next thing I did was to get a set of Schumacher Headers with the ceramic coating. They were a breeze to install, I installed them from the top and didn't have to mess with anything on the install, unlike before where the starter and steering shaft had to be removed. These Tri-Y headers are a few inched shorter so I drove it over to the local exhaust shop 2 miles away to extend. Had him fix that as well as the hack job the place before did with the dual exhaust I had replaced, they only had one set of hangers the length of the car.
So by this point in time the power steering was not boiling over, the engine no longer stalled, and you could listen to what the engine was doing. So I thought it was ready to tune, but I was mistaken, the engine was still running hot, not as much as before with the old headers but enough for concern as the outside temperature should have been cooling it. So I went for an aluminum radiator from be-cool as I couldn't find any 4 core copper ones. However to get one with the inlet outlet on the proper side it would be a custom job, and cost well over 2k, and if I went with their package it would have been about 1k. So I went with a flexalite electric fan and had to make a custom house to move the inlet from passenger side to driver side and route it around the air conditioner. Looks pretty decent will get some pictures up here if I get some time this weekend. Also had to build a bracket for it to fit in the large space, all brackets they made were for smaller spaces.
I have also put the filter top on the carb as well as it had been sitting in the box since I bought it before my last post on here. Also bought a digital timing light with the rpms as no one knew what the gauge I was looking for was so I went with that one from Craftsman.
So I now had a bogging issue with the engine and figured out that it was too advanced, now that I had the new timing light, not tuned where I want it yet but much much closer. Also need to rerun the electric fan line to an ignition point, thought I had it on one where the starter hooked to on the firewall, but the fan stays on when turned off, and that switch is now acting funny so I have to replace that too. Should have had it done already but the weather's been bad and the last time I had it out the glass in the t-top started separating from the frame again, so I figured that I would fix it this time as the shop that had done it had messed it up. Last thing is that there still is a short in the rear drivers side tail light thinking it could be the ground, but lack of time hinders the trial phase of fixing the issue, lots of theory behind it while I sit at work.
#126
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Just to make sure I include everything, I also replace the air shocks in the rear with a new set, same part number, really makes a difference. Also have a replacement set for the front that I will get to in due time.
Also looking into the new wheel and tires again, found my old post for the American Racing Shelby Cobra wheels and Kumho Ecsta SPT ku31 tires; 17x8 in the front tire 245/45R17 and 17x9.5 in the rear tire 285/40R17. Which leads to the post I made under wheels and tires for figuring out the back spacing.
I think that sums everything up and leads into the pictures I'll take this weekend, except that I need a new battery tray, have no part number and can't find anything close so if anyone has any input I'd appreciate it.
Also looking into the new wheel and tires again, found my old post for the American Racing Shelby Cobra wheels and Kumho Ecsta SPT ku31 tires; 17x8 in the front tire 245/45R17 and 17x9.5 in the rear tire 285/40R17. Which leads to the post I made under wheels and tires for figuring out the back spacing.
I think that sums everything up and leads into the pictures I'll take this weekend, except that I need a new battery tray, have no part number and can't find anything close so if anyone has any input I'd appreciate it.
Last edited by Commando; 03-31-2010 at 02:54 PM.
#128
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Ok, so here are some pictures I just took:
This pic shows a good shot of the fuel line I put in to prevent the vaporizing.
This is a good shot of the Schumacher Headers.
Here is a good shot of the radiator and electric fan.
These next few pictures are from the same angles as the other ones, so you all can see the changes.
In a few pictures you can see the custom radiator hose I made, there are brass couplers between the sections and I wrapped electrical tape between the hose clamps to keep up the appearance.
Some of you may also notice that I got rid of the long valve cover bolts, more trouble then they were worth.
This pic shows a good shot of the fuel line I put in to prevent the vaporizing.
This is a good shot of the Schumacher Headers.
Here is a good shot of the radiator and electric fan.
These next few pictures are from the same angles as the other ones, so you all can see the changes.
In a few pictures you can see the custom radiator hose I made, there are brass couplers between the sections and I wrapped electrical tape between the hose clamps to keep up the appearance.
Some of you may also notice that I got rid of the long valve cover bolts, more trouble then they were worth.
#130
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Yeah, it is pretty tight, had to get a smaller air filter to get the hood to close, but with the new headers more clearance there, and the electric fan is pretty close.
#133
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67 GTX, yes I believe so, got a good story, was doing some yard work and the neighbor calls me over, his friend is there with a 67 R/T, a lot of the same parts, like the heads, but his were the first set out, we get to talking he writes for one of the muscle car magazines and has had his car on there a few times to test different parts out. I show him my engine, mention I have been having a hard time tuning it so he says how easy it is to do and then he proceeds to tune it, done in 20 min or so, sounds really good, accelerates pretty good while parked, will let you know when I get a chance to take it out. Got it a lot closer if not to the right spot it needs to be at. Gave me some good advice, says I should have an 800 cfm carb on there, linkage needs minor adjustment so the secondaries open all the way, and to put lighter springs in the distributor to get better response.
Last edited by Commando; 04-05-2010 at 01:12 PM.
#135
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67 GTX, yes I believe so, got a good story, was doing some yard work and the neighbor calls me over, his friend is there with a 67 R/T, a lot of the same parts, like the heads, but his were the first set out, we get to talking he writes for one of the muscle car magazines and has had his car on there a few times to test different parts out. I show him my engine, mention I have been having a hard time tuning it so he says how easy it is to do and then he proceeds to tune it, done in 20 min or so, sounds really good, accelerates pretty good while parked, will let you know when I get a chance to take it out. Got it a lot closer if not to the right spot it needs to be at. Gave me some good advice, says I should have an 800 cfm carb on there, linkage needs minor adjustment so the secondaries open all the way, and to put lighter springs in the distributor to get better response.
any complaints on the cam?
#138
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I had the car out last weekend, runs awesome, minor carb tweaking for the low end, but had it on the highway great acceleration. I have to use the GPS to check my speed as I will be changing the wheels and need a new cog in the trans, but I parked it looked at the GPS, said my top speed was 151 mph, so it looks like I did something right.
However the power steering is still boiling, so I have a PS cooler I am going to install. I haven't opened it yet, but should this be mounted lower then the reservoir so the fluid doesn't backup and overflow?
However the power steering is still boiling, so I have a PS cooler I am going to install. I haven't opened it yet, but should this be mounted lower then the reservoir so the fluid doesn't backup and overflow?
#139
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I think that was the last time I took it out ^. I need to finish this, just hoping on here to see whats been going on and to refresh my memory of what I had done.
Jeep is not done either, can't get it started, think the crazy dash, and wiring the guy I bought it from did is the problem, going to be fun tracing that issue. I did however build a shop so hopefully I can finish my Mopar projects, as well as my BMW.
Jeep is not done either, can't get it started, think the crazy dash, and wiring the guy I bought it from did is the problem, going to be fun tracing that issue. I did however build a shop so hopefully I can finish my Mopar projects, as well as my BMW.
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Zeus77
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11-12-2007 06:50 AM