vf aussie dart pick up

deadkelly · 10-13-2007, 11:44 PM

hi all, i bought a 69 vf ute,(aussie dart pick up)with rebuilt stock 318 & 904.it has a carter 350 2bbl carb, pacermaker headers dual 2 1/2 " exhaust .(i have 3.55 lsd center to put in).iam looking at a carb manifold & cam swop.(maybe stallie&valve springs). how much hp can i expect before i need a stall converter ?.i need a proven carb, manifold, cam combo,(stall, i don't want to take the heads off or pull the gear box out.money better spent on a big block crate motor.) iam thinking 570-670 holly,edelbrock performer manifold ? who knows what cam ,if anyone can help that would be great.ps iam representing chrysler in the land of holdens and fords and new age rice burners. it needs to run around 15's 1/4 mile.

ucfierocharger · 10-15-2007, 06:01 AM

sweet man! I wanna see the pics. Everyone I have heard has said go with the performer RPM intake over the regular performer. I dont know if it will make that much of a difference in a 318, but I would look into it if I were you. If you are going with an edelbrock intake, Why not stick with them for a carb? I had a 650 cfm on my 318 Charger, and It was too much volume for the displacement and valve size, etc. I also didnt have any headers, just stock manifolds so I would think that something in the 650 range would work well.

I dont think 15s are out of reach at all.

deadkelly · 12-22-2007, 04:43 AM

have just bought a running 383 big block its in the car now. headers are in the post. it has holley street performer manifold single plane,no carb yet . mopar purple cam size? ELE DIZZY 727 AUTO 3.55 LSD DIFF.
Q CARB RECOMMENDATIONS ,IAM THINKING 850 SPREAD BORE, IT USED TOO HAVE 950 HOLLEY. ANY INFO WOULD BE GREAT.

steve74swinger · 12-26-2007, 07:27 AM

Hey Kelly, one of the main things you need to watch when you ask about hp for a stall converter is the the cam. The duration of the cam will be crucial in determining the need for a stall converter. But if your going to run it on a strip only, I would definitely get a converter that is loose enough to stall at the line. when shes running you can flash stall the converter and see where you are. if it's a stock converter and you push a bunch of hp into it racing the converter won;t last long and can balloon , which most commonly takes out your thrust washers or bearings in the crank. So before you put the motor in. I would call a converter company, TCI, B&M, and run your build by the tech dept. they will recommend a converter for you application. If you tell them you are representing chrysler in a duel with the rice burners, they may even hook you up with a converter for the publicity. I worked for B&M and it's not all that uncommon. But as for my recommendation, I wouldn't use anything less than a 3,000 stall in a car like this. if your going to run a single plain manifold I would go higher. where your HP comes in, look at your cam specs and it will give a RPM range. If the motor is gonna make horsepower at 3,200-5,000 you are gonna want to have a converter loose enough to stall to your horsepower rpm range otherwise your tires will spin at the line at a lower rpm than you need to launch the car hard. Most common mistake made with converters is people tend to want 2 things, they want a converter that they can race with and drive the car around to get groceries. Unfortunately to really bring out the horsepower for racing you need a specific converter, and depending on the build, you will lose drivability as a grocery getter. Don't waste your money on a converter that is to tight, meaning that has to low of a stall speed, this could be the difference between you winning and losing at the track. Also, when shopping for a converter, make sure that you get a converter that has anti-ballooning plates. Definitely ask about this prior to reaching for your wallet. Usually any converter in the range of 3,200 and above will have anti-ballooning plates welded in standard. If you buy every other part on the car used, my suggestion would be to buy your converter Brand New. Don't put someones old mess behind your motor. And people will sell used converters in any condition, most of the time they have no idea it isn't any good from the start. Very important to beware of used converters.

10-13-2007, 11:44 PM	#1 (permalink)
deadkelly Member Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: queensland Australia Posts: 36	vf aussie dart pick up hi all, i bought a 69 vf ute,(aussie dart pick up)with rebuilt stock 318 & 904.it has a carter 350 2bbl carb, pacermaker headers dual 2 1/2 " exhaust .(i have 3.55 lsd center to put in).iam looking at a carb manifold & cam swop.(maybe stallie&valve springs). how much hp can i expect before i need a stall converter ?.i need a proven carb, manifold, cam combo,(stall, i don't want to take the heads off or pull the gear box out.money better spent on a big block crate motor.) iam thinking 570-670 holly,edelbrock performer manifold ? who knows what cam ,if anyone can help that would be great.ps iam representing chrysler in the land of holdens and fords and new age rice burners. it needs to run around 15's 1/4 mile.

10-15-2007, 06:01 AM	#2 (permalink)
ucfierocharger USB car drive man Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: Cincinnati OH Posts: 139	sweet man! I wanna see the pics. Everyone I have heard has said go with the performer RPM intake over the regular performer. I dont know if it will make that much of a difference in a 318, but I would look into it if I were you. If you are going with an edelbrock intake, Why not stick with them for a carb? I had a 650 cfm on my 318 Charger, and It was too much volume for the displacement and valve size, etc. I also didnt have any headers, just stock manifolds so I would think that something in the 650 range would work well. I dont think 15s are out of reach at all. __________________ Unique mopar flash drives? http://www.usbcar.com

12-22-2007, 04:43 AM	#3 (permalink)
deadkelly Member Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: queensland Australia Posts: 36	g'mate have just bought a running 383 big block its in the car now. headers are in the post. it has holley street performer manifold single plane,no carb yet . mopar purple cam size? ELE DIZZY 727 AUTO 3.55 LSD DIFF. Q CARB RECOMMENDATIONS ,IAM THINKING 850 SPREAD BORE, IT USED TOO HAVE 950 HOLLEY. ANY INFO WOULD BE GREAT.

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12-26-2007, 07:27 AM	#4 (permalink)
steve74swinger Junior Member Join Date: Dec 2007 Posts: 9	Hey Kelly, one of the main things you need to watch when you ask about hp for a stall converter is the the cam. The duration of the cam will be crucial in determining the need for a stall converter. But if your going to run it on a strip only, I would definitely get a converter that is loose enough to stall at the line. when shes running you can flash stall the converter and see where you are. if it's a stock converter and you push a bunch of hp into it racing the converter won;t last long and can balloon , which most commonly takes out your thrust washers or bearings in the crank. So before you put the motor in. I would call a converter company, TCI, B&M, and run your build by the tech dept. they will recommend a converter for you application. If you tell them you are representing chrysler in a duel with the rice burners, they may even hook you up with a converter for the publicity. I worked for B&M and it's not all that uncommon. But as for my recommendation, I wouldn't use anything less than a 3,000 stall in a car like this. if your going to run a single plain manifold I would go higher. where your HP comes in, look at your cam specs and it will give a RPM range. If the motor is gonna make horsepower at 3,200-5,000 you are gonna want to have a converter loose enough to stall to your horsepower rpm range otherwise your tires will spin at the line at a lower rpm than you need to launch the car hard. Most common mistake made with converters is people tend to want 2 things, they want a converter that they can race with and drive the car around to get groceries. Unfortunately to really bring out the horsepower for racing you need a specific converter, and depending on the build, you will lose drivability as a grocery getter. Don't waste your money on a converter that is to tight, meaning that has to low of a stall speed, this could be the difference between you winning and losing at the track. Also, when shopping for a converter, make sure that you get a converter that has anti-ballooning plates. Definitely ask about this prior to reaching for your wallet. Usually any converter in the range of 3,200 and above will have anti-ballooning plates welded in standard. If you buy every other part on the car used, my suggestion would be to buy your converter Brand New. Don't put someones old mess behind your motor. And people will sell used converters in any condition, most of the time they have no idea it isn't any good from the start. Very important to beware of used converters.