fastdakota84

Sorry. I guess my wording is off. I meant, to test with my voltmeter, I took the black wire of the voltmeter and touched a ground on the body, then I took the red wire of the voltmeter and touched a terminal of the coil, and I got a reading of 12 V. Is this the correct way of testing? If I have a 12 V reading, then I DO have power to the coil, correct? So where could I be lacking spark between the coil and the coil wire. Its a new coil?

scotts74birds

I know this throws alot of folks, but a coil uses a "switched ground" set-up as opposed to the standard switched hot wire set-up. http://auto.howstuffworks.com/ignition-system3.htm As you can see, a coil that is hard wired to ground will build up, but NEVER collapse the magnetic field and generate the high voltage pulse. the 12v at the coil pos is good. Now connect ONLY the small black wire from the box to the coil neg. I got this from the instructions of a Mallory site that makes the boxes for Summit. http://www.malloryperformance.com/pdf/6852M_6853M.pdf

Barfly

I'm quite sure that is right as it was the (-) side of the coil that I connected my tachometer to tonight. It's this connection that acts as the pickup for the tach so I know it does not go to ground.

Here is another link to some wiring diagrams for the charging system.

Joe.

fastdakota84

Yep. That's how I have my ignition box wired for a magnetic pickup distributor (which I have), just like its shown.

fastdakota84

Alright, here's where I stand:

• I've got power to the coil with the ignition off and on (12 - 12.2 V)
• I checked for power on both terminals on the coil while cranking.
• Both terminals fluxuate from ~ 9.3 - 9.6 V while cranking. I know one terminal is supposed to go off and on from the coil, so I'm not sure if that's considered open and closing, or if it would be alot more voltage change.
• The coils reading 1.7 ohms, so I know the coil should be good (its new).

So, my question is, is the coil supposed to have voltage reading with the key off and battery connected, or only when the ignition is on?

Second, if that's ok, could there be something wrong with the distributor? It's brand new too!

Also, I attached the (-) battery cable to the engine, good ground, and there is another smaller cable that comes off the (-) battery cable that connects to the body, so the ground circuit should be good. Unless i need another cable from the engine to the chassis?

Any ideas???

Barfly

Should you have voltage at the coil with the ignition off? No I don't think so.
Look at the wiring diagram at the bottom of that electronic ignition link I posted. It shows two sources of (+) both are noted as only being on with the key in Run or Start positions.


I will assume you are using a multimeter for measuring the voltage?

If so is a digital? If it is you might try placing it on HZ rather than DC Volts, the meter very well might not respond fast enough to show you the on and of action, where if you are measuring HZ (normally used for AC) you should see the on off action.

Joe.

fastdakota84

Ok guys. I narrowed it down to the Summit Racing ignition box being faulty, so I sent it back for another one. Hopefully the new the one will fix my spark issue!

67 GTX

which one did you order?
if it is the mopar orange box, i have been hearing some "durability" issues with them

fastdakota84

No, its a "Summit Racing" Electronic Ignition Box.

Also, I noticed there was a small oil leak and coolant leak from the back of the block out of the bellhousing. What you think for coolant, freeze plug I'm guessing? I thoght I put RTV on the plug, but dont remember, I know I put some on the others? Didn't know if this was common like the leak from the exhaust stud.

fastdakota84

Ok guys. I got the 440 fired up! It was the ignition box. I put the new ignition box in and a new fuel pressure regulator w/return line and worked great!

Couple questions on the start up. I fired it up and was running it around 2000 RPM to break in the cam, but I had to turn it off in the first 10 minuets because it got to hot, my electric fan did kick on. I was just going to wire the fan to be on all time while I break in. It shouldn't be a problem to start back up and finsh the break in should it?

Also, my oil pressure was High! I know its a new motor so everything is going to be tight, and its a high volume oil pump, but it was reading 80-85 psi which is what my gauge goes to. I've heard some 440's run higher pressure, especially HV pumps, but does this seem a little high?

Thanks for your help!

78D200

Awesome news!

You could have an air pocket in your cooling system causing the high temp or it could be the radiator doesn't have what it takes to cool that monster motor.

AMC V8 motors run around 5-15 PSI when they are worn in. When I rebuilt mine, I was ready 60-65 PSI. I'm not surprised that you were at 80-85 PSI. IT will come done some as the motor runs over time.

67 GTX

if you want to break it in for 20 minutes, and you ran the car already for 10
just start it up again and finish out the 20 minutes

the pressure seems ok
what oil were you running?

fastdakota84

Ok. Sounds good.

The oil I'm running is Castrol GTX 10W30 and poured a break in additive into it, but I was going to switch to a synthetic after break in. I know I should of gotten a different oil for break in. Hopefully that was ok for start up.

67gtxclone

When I was doing the 20 min break in on my 440 a couple of months ago, it cooked the carpet in the back seat. At cruise RPM, my car also runs around 80 psi. I would be careful about synthetic oil unless you are running a roller lifter/cam setup. Search for ZDDP in the General Discussion forum for more information on that.