318 Distributor 90 degrees off??
05-19-2012, 08:51 AM
#31
IT DOES NOT MATTER Every time you turn the crank ONE turn, the cam will either be at 6 o'clock or 12 o'clock. The TRICK is that it is a little difficult to correctly line the marks up at 12 and 12
The FACT is that when lined up by the book, no 6 is ready to fire, not no 1
The FACT is that when lined up by the book, no 6 is ready to fire, not no 1
05-20-2012, 11:57 AM
#32
Gas Flow now
Your having a rough go, lucks gotta change. Those timing marks in the magazine are incorrect or the manufacturers special instructions. Every and all manuals I have show Crank at 12, Cam Sprocket at 6, each point should line up in a straight line with the crank and cam center line.
05-20-2012, 01:57 PM
#34
Towers on Dist
Just set #1 wire 2 towers from the front dist clip going CC, one tower from front clip going CC and it shoots flames out of the carb and tailpipe, and set it by ear, runs ok by ear for now, revs fine etc, no determination whether it will heat up , but with the thermostat in it shouldn't. By feeling the #1 cylinder with my thumb, rotor points to between 6-7 o'clock on the dist looking from under hood. Put cap on and set it, plugged another vacc line in back of carb too.
05-20-2012, 05:46 PM
#35
You guys are NOT payin attention. THE CAM TURNS 1/2 turn for every crank rotation. This means that everytime the crank goes around one, the cam alternates 6 and 12
JUST HOW difficult is it to understand a 2:1 ratio?
It's just that "by the book" 6 and 12 is easier to "straightedge."
THE FACT is that 6 and 12 is NUMBER 6 and NOT number 1 ready to fire.
JUST HOW difficult is it to understand a 2:1 ratio?
It's just that "by the book" 6 and 12 is easier to "straightedge."
THE FACT is that 6 and 12 is NUMBER 6 and NOT number 1 ready to fire.
05-26-2012, 01:00 PM
#36
Pinging now and heating up after a 30 mile road trip, worse now after 5 miles. Shuts off when stopping, The slot that the dist fits in allows the rotor to slop about 1/8" either way is this normal? Gap is .008, I can line up the reflector fin to the sensor but u can slop the reluctor wheel back and forth. about 1/8"
\I fully understand the 2:1 ratio, and am fully aware of when I am at TDC on the compression stroke, my amp gauge keeps showing a charge and hopefully that works out, I revved it so high one day that I stretched and spun off that alt. belt.
\I fully understand the 2:1 ratio, and am fully aware of when I am at TDC on the compression stroke, my amp gauge keeps showing a charge and hopefully that works out, I revved it so high one day that I stretched and spun off that alt. belt.
05-28-2012, 06:43 PM
#37
Initial
You guys are NOT payin attention. THE CAM TURNS 1/2 turn for every crank rotation. This means that everytime the crank goes around one, the cam alternates 6 and 12
JUST HOW difficult is it to understand a 2:1 ratio?
It's just that "by the book" 6 and 12 is easier to "straightedge."
THE FACT is that 6 and 12 is NUMBER 6 and NOT number 1 ready to fire.
JUST HOW difficult is it to understand a 2:1 ratio?
It's just that "by the book" 6 and 12 is easier to "straightedge."
THE FACT is that 6 and 12 is NUMBER 6 and NOT number 1 ready to fire.
05-28-2012, 08:49 PM
#38
So far as the timing scale, nope
The factory cars do NOT have numbers on the dampener. That has been added by someone, perhaps a replacement aftermarket dampener, and I believe many "crate" rebuilders degree the dampener. If the numbers are accurate, the numbers on the timing pointer and the numbers on the balancer amount to the same thing.
That is, if you rotate the engine so that the balancer TDC mark is under 10BTC on the timing tab, then the 10* mark on the dampener should be under TDC on the timing tab
In other words, the two sets of numbers should be telling you the very same thing.
So setting timing is setting timing. IF the marks are accurate, static, initial, mechanical advance, and vacuum advance all are set, checked, and verified using the same numbers.
Fords for example, never used to have a numbered pointer. The legacy 352/392/ 289/302, etc engines all had a timing "needle" pointer, and the dampener was degreed.
The only reason Mopar balancers need to be degreed is that the timing tab is not numbered high enough to be of any real use
The factory cars do NOT have numbers on the dampener. That has been added by someone, perhaps a replacement aftermarket dampener, and I believe many "crate" rebuilders degree the dampener. If the numbers are accurate, the numbers on the timing pointer and the numbers on the balancer amount to the same thing.
That is, if you rotate the engine so that the balancer TDC mark is under 10BTC on the timing tab, then the 10* mark on the dampener should be under TDC on the timing tab
In other words, the two sets of numbers should be telling you the very same thing.
So setting timing is setting timing. IF the marks are accurate, static, initial, mechanical advance, and vacuum advance all are set, checked, and verified using the same numbers.
Fords for example, never used to have a numbered pointer. The legacy 352/392/ 289/302, etc engines all had a timing "needle" pointer, and the dampener was degreed.
The only reason Mopar balancers need to be degreed is that the timing tab is not numbered high enough to be of any real use
05-28-2012, 11:49 PM
#39
Marks are off
So far as the timing scale, nope
The factory cars do NOT have numbers on the dampener. That has been added by someone, perhaps a replacement aftermarket dampener, and I believe many "crate" rebuilders degree the dampener. If the numbers are accurate, the numbers on the timing pointer and the numbers on the balancer amount to the same thing.
That is, if you rotate the engine so that the balancer TDC mark is under 10BTC on the timing tab, then the 10* mark on the dampener should be under TDC on the timing tab
In other words, the two sets of numbers should be telling you the very same thing.
So setting timing is setting timing. IF the marks are accurate, static, initial, mechanical advance, and vacuum advance all are set, checked, and verified using the same numbers.
Fords for example, never used to have a numbered pointer. The legacy 352/392/ 289/302, etc engines all had a timing "needle" pointer, and the dampener was degreed.
The only reason Mopar balancers need to be degreed is that the timing tab is not numbered high enough to be of any real use
The factory cars do NOT have numbers on the dampener. That has been added by someone, perhaps a replacement aftermarket dampener, and I believe many "crate" rebuilders degree the dampener. If the numbers are accurate, the numbers on the timing pointer and the numbers on the balancer amount to the same thing.
That is, if you rotate the engine so that the balancer TDC mark is under 10BTC on the timing tab, then the 10* mark on the dampener should be under TDC on the timing tab
In other words, the two sets of numbers should be telling you the very same thing.
So setting timing is setting timing. IF the marks are accurate, static, initial, mechanical advance, and vacuum advance all are set, checked, and verified using the same numbers.
Fords for example, never used to have a numbered pointer. The legacy 352/392/ 289/302, etc engines all had a timing "needle" pointer, and the dampener was degreed.
The only reason Mopar balancers need to be degreed is that the timing tab is not numbered high enough to be of any real use
05-28-2012, 11:53 PM
#40
Book
So far as the timing scale, nope
The factory cars do NOT have numbers on the dampener. That has been added by someone, perhaps a replacement aftermarket dampener, and I believe many "crate" rebuilders degree the dampener. If the numbers are accurate, the numbers on the timing pointer and the numbers on the balancer amount to the same thing.
That is, if you rotate the engine so that the balancer TDC mark is under 10BTC on the timing tab, then the 10* mark on the dampener should be under TDC on the timing tab
In other words, the two sets of numbers should be telling you the very same thing.
So setting timing is setting timing. IF the marks are accurate, static, initial, mechanical advance, and vacuum advance all are set, checked, and verified using the same numbers.
Fords for example, never used to have a numbered pointer. The legacy 352/392/ 289/302, etc engines all had a timing "needle" pointer, and the dampener was degreed.
The only reason Mopar balancers need to be degreed is that the timing tab is not numbered high enough to be of any real use
The factory cars do NOT have numbers on the dampener. That has been added by someone, perhaps a replacement aftermarket dampener, and I believe many "crate" rebuilders degree the dampener. If the numbers are accurate, the numbers on the timing pointer and the numbers on the balancer amount to the same thing.
That is, if you rotate the engine so that the balancer TDC mark is under 10BTC on the timing tab, then the 10* mark on the dampener should be under TDC on the timing tab
In other words, the two sets of numbers should be telling you the very same thing.
So setting timing is setting timing. IF the marks are accurate, static, initial, mechanical advance, and vacuum advance all are set, checked, and verified using the same numbers.
Fords for example, never used to have a numbered pointer. The legacy 352/392/ 289/302, etc engines all had a timing "needle" pointer, and the dampener was degreed.
The only reason Mopar balancers need to be degreed is that the timing tab is not numbered high enough to be of any real use
Last edited by jss672011; 05-28-2012 at 11:55 PM. Reason: mistake
05-29-2012, 12:32 AM
#41
Correction
So far as the timing scale, nope
The factory cars do NOT have numbers on the dampener. That has been added by someone, perhaps a replacement aftermarket dampener, and I believe many "crate" rebuilders degree the dampener. If the numbers are accurate, the numbers on the timing pointer and the numbers on the balancer amount to the same thing.
That is, if you rotate the engine so that the balancer TDC mark is under 10BTC on the timing tab, then the 10* mark on the dampener should be under TDC on the timing tab
In other words, the two sets of numbers should be telling you the very same thing.
So setting timing is setting timing. IF the marks are accurate, static, initial, mechanical advance, and vacuum advance all are set, checked, and verified using the same numbers.
Fords for example, never used to have a numbered pointer. The legacy 352/392/ 289/302, etc engines all had a timing "needle" pointer, and the dampener was degreed.
The only reason Mopar balancers need to be degreed is that the timing tab is not numbered high enough to be of any real use
The factory cars do NOT have numbers on the dampener. That has been added by someone, perhaps a replacement aftermarket dampener, and I believe many "crate" rebuilders degree the dampener. If the numbers are accurate, the numbers on the timing pointer and the numbers on the balancer amount to the same thing.
That is, if you rotate the engine so that the balancer TDC mark is under 10BTC on the timing tab, then the 10* mark on the dampener should be under TDC on the timing tab
In other words, the two sets of numbers should be telling you the very same thing.
So setting timing is setting timing. IF the marks are accurate, static, initial, mechanical advance, and vacuum advance all are set, checked, and verified using the same numbers.
Fords for example, never used to have a numbered pointer. The legacy 352/392/ 289/302, etc engines all had a timing "needle" pointer, and the dampener was degreed.
The only reason Mopar balancers need to be degreed is that the timing tab is not numbered high enough to be of any real use
05-29-2012, 10:20 AM
#42
15-16 degrees
So far as the timing scale, nope
The factory cars do NOT have numbers on the dampener. That has been added by someone, perhaps a replacement aftermarket dampener, and I believe many "crate" rebuilders degree the dampener. If the numbers are accurate, the numbers on the timing pointer and the numbers on the balancer amount to the same thing.
That is, if you rotate the engine so that the balancer TDC mark is under 10BTC on the timing tab, then the 10* mark on the dampener should be under TDC on the timing tab
In other words, the two sets of numbers should be telling you the very same thing.
So setting timing is setting timing. IF the marks are accurate, static, initial, mechanical advance, and vacuum advance all are set, checked, and verified using the same numbers.
Fords for example, never used to have a numbered pointer. The legacy 352/392/ 289/302, etc engines all had a timing "needle" pointer, and the dampener was degreed.
The only reason Mopar balancers need to be degreed is that the timing tab is not numbered high enough to be of any real use
The factory cars do NOT have numbers on the dampener. That has been added by someone, perhaps a replacement aftermarket dampener, and I believe many "crate" rebuilders degree the dampener. If the numbers are accurate, the numbers on the timing pointer and the numbers on the balancer amount to the same thing.
That is, if you rotate the engine so that the balancer TDC mark is under 10BTC on the timing tab, then the 10* mark on the dampener should be under TDC on the timing tab
In other words, the two sets of numbers should be telling you the very same thing.
So setting timing is setting timing. IF the marks are accurate, static, initial, mechanical advance, and vacuum advance all are set, checked, and verified using the same numbers.
Fords for example, never used to have a numbered pointer. The legacy 352/392/ 289/302, etc engines all had a timing "needle" pointer, and the dampener was degreed.
The only reason Mopar balancers need to be degreed is that the timing tab is not numbered high enough to be of any real use
Will set it at the 15-16 mark when I can get to it, today not looking too good so far, maybe tomorrow, will post the results.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
vintagenc2
Do-It-yourself Section
2
08-06-2010 02:13 PM
valleyofthesuns
General Technical Questions
6
09-24-2008 09:56 AM
